tjackmil

Billy, Thank you - my family had a 39 Buick special as our family car in the late 40's. Lots of room.

That's good to know - what are the restrictions on use? I would hope to be able to drive my car locally with maybe some week-end trips. Probably about 3000 to 4000 miles per year.

Art, Thanks for the information, I haven't thought of registering it as an antique, but I will check it out.

Thank you Mark - I will give him a try.

Will be moving to the Clermont area of Florida in July and will need auto insurance for my TC and one other car. Am currently with Allstate with the TC being covered by Hagerty (designated value) but we will be giving up one of our other vehicles so I will no longer be eligible for the Hagerty program. Can any Florida members recommend an insurer that will cover the TC for more than Blue Book value? Thank you in advance for any help offered.

I believe he covered that in his original post "What's it worth".

I'm in Pennsylvania and had not trouble registering my car as a Maserati. From previous posts, (or maybe a club newsletter) I remember that the VIN sequence changed and later built cars were shown as being manufactured by Chrysler.

Hemi, Thanks for your input - I'll be with Club members at Carlisle this weekend, so I see if any of them may have a source. Tom

The driver side hinge on my tonneau cover broke right at the elbow where it leaves the trunk. Is it possible to remove this hinge and have it welded together or should I be looking for another hinge to replace the original one? Tom

Hemi, Thanks for the advice - I am retaining this whole thread for future reference. I also have the rear caliper adjustment sequence filed and usually let my mechanic have any and all pertinent info I have available. Again - Thanks Tom

Finally got my car back – Degerb, you were right on with the parking brake problem: my right rear caliper was hanging up. They lubed it heavily, and I will keep driving it hoping that the caliper will loosen up, if not, then I guess I will need to replace both rears. As for the brake lights staying on – it turns out that the fixture that holds the brake light switch failed, allowing the switch to move back into the holder so that the striker plate could not make contact. My mechanic reused the old switch and made up a “spacer” which keeps the switch in the proper position, so now the brake lights work as they are supposed to. (Sorry about ending that sentence with a preposition!) Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions. Tom

Marty, Thanks for the switch number - my mechanic got one but it wasn't the right one. This should be a big help. Tom

Marty, My mechanic only mentioned the switch - I'll ask him tomorrow if he needs the striker also. Thanks Tom

Degerb, Thanks for the input - I will have my mechanic check your possible problem points on Monday, but he did tell me that the "return spring" on the parking brake was broken. I don't really see any of this in my service manual, and I have not crawled under the dash to look, so I am depending on his input. His shop is the one that converted my brakes, however, the mechanic that did the work was involved in a serious accident several months ago, and has not returned to work yet. Tom

Hello all, I have an '89 8- valve with automatic trans - I am in need of the brake light switch and the parking brake ratchet - are these standard Chrysler parts? BTW, my braking system has been changed over to the LeBaron system per Hemi's article on Allpar. Don't believe that that should change the parts that I am after. (Reason - brake lights won't go off, can't adjust switch so lights will go off; parking brake warning light stays on unless I lift the foot pedal with my foot) Tom

201886 1989 Mar-89 exotic red ginger tan sohc

Hemi, My registration cost $36.00. Same charge for my Subaru and Plymouth.

My PA registration shows YR/MAKE: 1989 Maserati TYPE: Conv

Hemi, Thanks for your quick reply - I kind of suspected that was the situation and appreciate your confirmation. Had hoped that a "new" proportioning valve could be obtained, but won't waste time on that approach any longer. Thanks again

After losing my brakes four times (fuses once, accumulator twice, who knows this time), I've decided to convert my brakes per Hemi's article on Allpar. I've asked my mechanic to use new parts, but he is having trouble finding the proportioning valve. All of the sources I've tried tell me that an '89 Lebaron does not have a proportioning valve. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks

What is the procedure to access the rear quarter window regulators?

Hemi, Thank you for your spot on analysis. I have removed the posts and now need to epoxy the threaded inserts (very small) back into the lamp housing. It is kind of what I anticipated, but I really needed to hear from someone with a lot more confidence than I before I really started to tackle it. Again, thanks a lot. Tom

Hello All, Today I noticed that my third stoplight is apparently just hanging on the wires. A closer look shows two posts coming from the tonneau trim strip up into the light fixture. Theses two posts are not connected to the light fixture. I see knurled knobs on the top of the posts that appear to fit into two sockets in the fixture, but I see no way to tighten them or "fix" them to the light fixture. Can anyone help as to how these posts should be attached to the light fixture? Thank you, Tom

Is it possible that your idle speed is too low? Manual gives allowable range of 650 to 900 RPM (measured with Diagnostic Tool, not dashboard tach). The fact that you say it smooths out when speed increases to 800-900 RPM would lead me to try to get an accurate reading on your real idle speed.

If you have a hard pedal, I would have the car towed. I've experienced brake failure twice since I got my TC (1999) - I did drive about 10 miles with the "hard" pedal and would not recommend it. You should have both brake warning lights on - (antilock and brake), the manual says that probable cause is either loss of fluid or loss of boost.