roadmaster56

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About roadmaster56

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  • Birthday 05/01/1952

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  1. I have searched the forum, but have not found the article on "Torque Ball Repair from the Buick Bugle, Dec 2009. It seems it is the only issue I'm missing for that year in my library. I'm about to repair the leaking torque ball on my 50 Super and it would be very helpful if someone could post the article. Thanks, David in Santa Cruz.
  2. I've got a leakat the rear of my gearbox; 48 New Yorker with Fluid Drive (see photo below) The leak is not in the Fluid Drive unit, but the 4 speed gear box at the rear most housing, just ahead of the parking brake. This housing is made up of two pieces - one bolt on to another to make up the rear of the gear box. The leak is confined to the larger housing and gasket. The oil collects at the bottom of the built in oil strainer and it leaks onto the parking brake/shoes. I have removed the strainer cover and replaced the seal - and its not leaking. Has anyone removed the rear housing? If so, what should I expect? Are springs and things going to fly out or is this an easy job where the cover comes off and the new gasket goes on? Thanks, David in Santa Cruz.
  3. Does anyone have the original part number for the carbon graphite seal for a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker 8 cylinder with Fluid Drive? This would be the "first type" used from 1946 thru 1950... Thanks, David in Santa Cruz
  4. I'm replacing the clutch and various elements of the Fluid Drive unit in my 1948 Chrysler New Yorker 8 cylinder and I need some advice. History and questions: The carbon seal and the copper bellows (40-51 "1st style") are leaking and need to be replaced. The carbon is pitted and the bellows has a pinhole leak in it. I have been able to locate, but have not yet purchased, the "1st style" which I have heard is inferior to the "2nd style" (51 - ?). Will the "2nd style" fit my "1st style" Fluid Drive unit. Is the upgrade to the '2nd style" is worth the effort so far as reliability is concerned? I probably put about 2000 miles per year if even that. I was told that if I use the "2nd style" seal, I would have to get the large retaining coller nut, which on the "1st style", is soldered/glued to the accordian bellows assembly....is this correct? If so, does anyone have a source for BOTH the later carbon seal, sleeve AND the large retaning nut? Does anyone have a photo of the "2nd style" seal complete? Finally, how do I remove the front most bushing/bearing (the smaller one that supports the fluid coupling)? The chrysler manual shows an extraction tool, but I don't have one, and all other attempts have failed to remove it. Thanks David in Santa Cruz
  5. Thanks Bob, that's exactly what I needed to know. David in Santa Cruz
  6. I'm trying to determine an engine vibration on my 48 New Yorker with Fluid Drive. I think it may be in the clutch assembly as it is very worn. Here's my question: Can I run the engine for a few minutes or so without the tranny and clutch installed. Would this harm anything? This would tell me if one of the clutch components might be the source of the vibes. Thanks, David in Santa Cruz
  7. I have finally mustered the courage to fix my leaky torque tube; and since I've never done this before, I'd appreciate any insights/hints you may have that will get me through this nasty job:(. I've been reviewing all the previous posts and discovered there was an article in the Buick Bugle December 2009 entitled "RESEALING THE TORQUE TUBE" which outlines the whole procedure. Unfortunately, my Buick club membership has expired and I don't have that particular issue. Would someone post that article online so I could take a look at it? Many thanks, David in Santa Cruz PS I have heard that some reseal kits are better than others -- any advice on this? Also where best to purchase?
  8. I did a quick scan of old posts but didn't find my answer....maybe someone can help: I'm contemplating rebuilding my 48 Chrysler 8 cylinder engine. Will a 1.5 to 2 ton "cherry picker" engine hoist safely hoist out the block (less the trans.) Anybody know the approximate weight of just the block with its innards? Also, is there any advantage to removing the engine and tranny as a unit? My tranny is fine and I was not planning on removing it unless it made the re-installation of the engine easier. Are there any tips/tricks I should be aware of re: engine removal/installation? Thanks David in Santa Cruz
  9. Oops forgot to spec its a 48 Chrysler New Yorker, 8 cyl, 323 ci, with fluid drive
  10. Hello everyone: Now that I'm putting everything back together, I need some torque specs to correctly tighten the various nuts and bolts. My Chrysler shop manual refers me to "section XVI - Tightening Standards", but there are no torque specs anywhere in this section. Does anyone have a torque list for the various engine components. Specifically, I'm looking for the following specs: camshaft gear bolts timing chain cover bolts engine mount to cradle engine mount to engine crank/lower pulley bolts fan bolts engine cradle to frame rear engine mount bolts Thanks David in Santa Cruz
  11. Hello Everyone: I've installed the timing chain and the next item is to install the chain cover. I have to drive out the old crank seal and install the new one I purchased. The Chrysler workshop manual calls for the use of a "centering tool #322" to accurately locate the timing case cover. If this is not done the seal will wear improperly and leak around the crankshaft. Of course I don't have the "centering tool #322" that is featured in the manual and I'm sure the tool section at Sears won't have any soooooo...... has anyone installed and aligned a timing chain case cover, if so, how did you do it? Did you fashion your own tool? I'd appreciate your shop tips. David in Santa Cruz
  12. Howdy all: I just received a replacement timing chain from Egge. It is 8 links wide instead of the New Yorker's 10 link wide chain. , although they are same length. It looks like one meant for a Spitfire 6. Egge told me that this chain has superseded, the original. I suspect they just can't get the original. Does anyone know where I can get the proper "10 link wide" chain for a 48 New Yorker? If not, has anyone used the narrower chain in an 8 cyl? ......results? Should I use the narrower chain? Thanks, David in Santa Cruz.