1937-44

No it can be removed with the engine left in the car. The transmission and freewheeling unit can be removed by two old dudes with the car on good jack stands or one stubborn stupid old man that swore never again when he was done. Remove the bottom of the front seat and move the frame all the way back. Remove the floor boards. After disconnecting everything the person under the car slides the whole unit back into the x-frame, then the person in the car grabs the shifter and tilting the transmission upwards can lift it up into the passenger compartment. At least that's how you can do it on a 1932 Auburn sedan.

I still have it.

It's a vacuum starter switch. Not sure what is the proper one for a 1936 Special, but here is one on Ebay for a larger series. https://www.ebay.com/itm/125591689561?epid=657454228&hash=item1d3dd91959:g:eNUAAOSwZO9jYdTI&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsHGmyf3eL1Ava6G6%2FF3tTPrAq4kh034rnNcgA%2FGmkEKvlzH7uwk9ftqb9om6ZcpFsC0F9dAwbvo2IxwC3Eg6T%2BeWqRYUzcL0VZtvg2eHaIf1i1rxC6tpmli7S79asPD7KMLKDRc8LFwiv%2ByP1n%2BNpW1fc%2Fp2EDTXp8ZlGMFx585oRLrBe65Ub5WbOPBvhdeVjeurwQwpjke%2FwDsDJV8w2PvfB7pKZsi2Zsks5%2B5jyZAG|tkp%3ABk9SR4Djy5KHYQ With room that 36 would be a nice addition for anyone. Carl

That would make drilling the lock harder, but I always heard the fastest and easiest way to bypass the club was to just cut the steering wheel.

It would seem most if not all of those Delco synchronizing tools are scarce. I searched for years for one and finally found one but unfortunately it wouldn't work on my distributor. I eventually sold it to a Marmon owner. You will have better luck finding a Weidenhoff, Winn or similar point synchronizing tool. In the meantime you can adjust them fairly accurately by fabricating a crude gauge with a protractor. paper clip and old rotor. Carl

My parts book lists this switch for just 1938 domestic models. Carl

Welcome back Keiser31, was beginning to worry about you. I've had mine about 28 years and made due with a reproduction cap on mine all these years. Unfortunately the time seems to be drawing nearer it might be going down the road before long. That's just a bit of a hint in case you come into some money. I started thinking about it and I think I'll let the new owner find an original. Sorry but can't give you a value for it but I'm sure you won't have any trouble selling it. Good Luck.

I like it but not in the market. Unfortunately another persons sentimentality doesn't add much value to most buyers. Sorry if I missed it, but I didn't see anywhere in the post what significant maintenance has been done to the truck. That information might help justify his price.

Hi Keiser31, It seems Mike's junk drawer has a lot in it. I think you will find this is the type cup he was looking for. My 1932 has a reproduction radiator cap on it with a cup of my making that works. I adapted an old gas cap and rubber washers to work and got this cup in case I found an original. Are you interested in selling your cap or did you get an Auburn? Carl

Glad to hear you got the 3rd brush to move. On my car (1932 Auburn) I can remove the band and use an inexpensive 90 degree ratcheting screwdriver to reach down and loosen the screw, move the brush and tighten the screw without any other major challenges. Hopefully now that you know where the screw is and which brush to move the job will be easier. Carl

Dave I'm not familiar with a 1931 Buick, but I assume most 3rd brush generators are similar. I'm attaching a picture of a 3rd brush plate that I like to think will help. The brush holder that is circled in red is the brush the screw goes into. If you notice the screw is what tightens the tab which keeps the whole unit from turning. The brush holder circled in blue is the brush that moves and adjusts the generator output. Been a while since I've adjusted the one on my car but if memory serves me correctly to increase out put you move the brush in the direction of armature rotation and to decrease the opposite. As we usually don't drive these cars for long periods of time and because at idle, using lights etc I generally have mine charging at a good rate but not maxed out. So far it hasn't overcharged or boiled out the battery fluid. It's somewhat a trial and error depending on your driving conditions. Also if you're planning on driving much at night you will need it high. During the day if you get concerned you can always turn the lights on. Good luck. Carl

Care to share how much you are asking?

Care to share how much you are asking for the switch?

My 1937 Buick manual states the "The thermostat starts opening at 150 degrees". It goes on to say, "It has been proven that the engine functions best with the cooling solution temperature ranging from 140 degrees to 180 degrees although it won't harm it if the engine temperature goes to 200 degrees under extremely hot driving conditions". I know when I was younger living up North in the winter we would sometimes put a 180 degree thermostat in so we could get the heater working sooner, we also covered part of the radiator. If you're not expecting Florida to freeze over for an extended time I'd leave the 160 degree thermostat in.

I had a red 1969 Sport Coupe as well. AM radio, heater, manual steering, drum brakes, full wheel covers, black vinyl interior with a 327 Turbo Hydromatic. It came close to 20 mpg whether I was around town or on the highway. According to the man I bought it from I was the third owner (father in law was a traveling salesman, 2 nd owner drove it 30-35 miles one way to work every day and assumed it had over 100,000 miles on it when I got it in mid 70's. I drove it to Maine, Louisiana, Florida and many places in between till the third member rusted out for the second time and the reinforced frame started weakening again. Ohio loves it's road salt. It was a great runner and would run circles around the 1970 (350) with powerglide and later the 1970 (400).

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/d/eastlake-1948-buick-roadmaster/7513380840.html 1948 Buick Roadmaster - $20,000 (Willowick) (google map) 1948 Buick Roadmaster fuel: gas odometer: 30000 title status: clean transmission: manual 1948 Buick Roadmaster Runs And Drives Excellent Straight 8 Engine 3 On The Tree Manual Transmission Beautiful Chrome Clean Body Nice Paint Interior Is In Excellent Condition Was Fully Restored 20 Years Ago Clean Ohio Title Serious Cash Buyers Only Please Call show contact info Thanks For Looking Godbless

I've always drilled a 1/8 hole in thermostat flanges, in the belief it helps air escape from the system when adding coolant.

Hi Brad, I'm as confused as Bloo with the pipe plug in the welch plug as it would seem that would just eliminate the bypass altogether. These are pictures of a 1937 Special bypass. One on the left is unmolested whereas the on on the left is what I have always understood to be the recommended improvement with the 1/4 in hole. I have reinstalled an original in my car as the modified one made it run even cooler than an original one. My car generally runs around 170 -175 on a 90 degree day when moving and only climbs a little when idling. Carl

I bought my 1937 Special in Maine the summer of 1975 and drove it home. Part of the route was the New York Thruway which had a speed limit of 55 due to the government wanting us to conserve fuel. We got on at Troy, New York and drove straight though at 55-60 mph to the Pennsylvania line. It would have been nice to have had another gear as the engine sounded a little busy, especially considering what we have gotten used to. Obviously it never hurt the engine as the only thing done to the engine since was a valve job. Btw it still has the 4.44:1 gears but maybe someday I'll get around to putting the Century gears in it. However I prefer to stay off the highways anyway and enjoy the drive. Carl

Jim Forshey used to keep all the old 1937-1938 Buick Torque tubes online available but he relinquished them to I think the 1936-1938 Club. I believe Matt Hinson has them now, but I couldn't locate them. Perhaps he can steer you in the right direction. Basically you remove the shaft, spring and plate and replace it with a Welch plug with a 1/4 inch size hole drilled in the center of it. Trying to diagnose a problem I was having I did it on one for a 37 Special but went back to the original as the original one wasn't the problem. The modified one made it difficult for my car to get to a warm operating temperature.

The Dynaflow came out in late 1947 and In 1953, Buick redesigned the Dynaflow, calling it the "Twin Turbine Dynaflow". Good history of it here; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynaflow Carl

I like it as well even though I'm not a fan of the enclosed wheel wells. What's interesting to me is he has four pictures of the outside, but none of the "sun deteriorated interior".

I have this lock cylinder and housing, but no key and the key cap is rough. $10 if you can pick it up near Kent, Ohio. Sorry but looks like shipping would be close to $10. Carl

Steele Rubber used to make two piece 37-38 running board mats that were glued to the runners.

One in the same. He was born and is in buried in Rochester, but I find no reference to Orville, Ohio https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_B._Selden