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I'll second the Rhode Island Wiring!

I used to drive my Model A PU on errands. One evening , I took to the local hardware store to get some concrete mix. Loaded it with about 10 eighty pound bags of cement and headed for home which was only about a 1/2 mile away. Good thing it was a short trip as the front wheels kept bouncing up off of the pavement, guess a little too much weight too far back! Interesting ride though!

Glad to help!

Restoration Specialties in Pennsylvania, USA should have this. It's a flexible channel so you can cut and bend it to shape. It looks like their numbers M8 or M123 depending on the measurements. I can't tell what clips are on the original by the photo but they may be available also. These should be pretty easy to make. Check out their webpage at WWW.restorationspecialties.com. By the way, did you ever get a windshield gasket?

Check my post in your other post

Tanks guys for the info. i' going to check with some of the rebuild companies to see about getting the originals rebuilt, but I may still kook for a 6vt alternative. i just don't want to do a lot of hacking to get something to fit!

Thanks guys for the reply. I just thought I'd start here first. Mark is correct, the car is a '36 Dodge sedan. Just considering changing over from vacuum for safety reasons. Problem is space, as most of the electric units look to be too bulky. I got caught one night in a severe rain storm while driving a '37 Chrysler Imperial, couldn't see a thing! That experience has stuck with me!

Has anyone replaced the original vacuum wiper motors in a mid '30 Chrysler product with 6 Vt electric motors. I'm looking for a good substitute that will fit the application. Thanks in advance!

PM sent. PS. I do have the corner pieces.

Looking for a 1936 Dodge sedan windshield frame. Really only need the upper frame and stainless trim, don't need the glass. Must be from a sedan model and must be in good condition, especially the trim piece.

Looking for a 1936 Dodge sedan windshield frame. Really only need the upper frame with the stainless trim, don't need the glass. Must be from a sedan model and must be in good condition, especially the trim piece.

Looking for a 1936 Dodge sedan windshield frame. Really just need the upper frame with the stainless trim, don't need the glass or hinges. Must be from a sedan model and must be in good condition, especially the trim piece.

Looks complete to me. Mine is a little sloppy too, I guess to account for movement and flexing.

I might have some of these parts but I'm confused as to what one of these items is. You need the tube, the pin on the tranny but what exactly do you mean by the support bracket? Here's a photo, maybe you can point out the part. Now , all I have to do is find them.

Unfortunately, this is the trouble of hiring out without a written contract. The car owner and the shop owner have no "real" proof of what is expected or promised on any particular job and no real legal way to fight issues when they come up! Most shops will run and hide at any mention of a contract or specific time length of work and that's why I hesitate to hire out any auto work. I'm now looking for a paint shop and an upholstery shop, but when they hear my timelines and price points, all of a sudden they are too busy! I think many shops grab up work, use the down payments to feed cash flow, then let jobs set because they soon become too much to keep up with, this seems especially true of shops who do insurance work as their primary cash cow! I've had friends that waited years for jobs that would have only taken a few weeks if the shop guys would only take the time to work on them! Personally, I think all service type businesses should, by law, have to work with contracts; this would save a lot of folks a lot of grief! As a contractor, all my jobs, no matter how large or small, had written legal contracts; saved my but a couple of times!

Trying to think if I need anything!

The drain is usually for the cowl vent.

Man, that just hurts my eyes!

This is what my older judging standards book says for a 1931 Fordor Deluxe 2 W & S/W Deluxe and Town Sedan. If you are going for an original color combo these are the options. Models 170-B, 160-B,C LOWER BODY UPPER BODY, BELT MOULDING ,REVEALS STRIPE Ford Maroon Black Vermillon Brewster Green medium Black Apple green Chicle Drab Copra Drab Straw Kewanee Green Elkpoint green Apple green Black Black Apple Green For the 1931 Standard Fordor and standard S/W sedan Models 165-C,D 160-A LOWER BODY UPPER BODY, BELT, REVEALS STRIPE Thorne Brown Thorn Brown Straw Lombard Blue Black Hessian Blue Chicle Drab Copra Drab Straw Kewanee Green Elkpoint Green Apple Green Black Black Apple Green Standard color for wheels is black. If they are painted they match the stripe color.

If you're speaking of the inner windscreen seal that fits around the perimeter of the body opening, I'd try Steele Rubber Co. in the U.S.A. they have a set no. 70-1276-52 marked for '35-'37 cars with the swing out windscreen. It's a 2 piece seal and the lower seal fits between the dash panel and the body. I'm not sure if it's an exact match as the one I have for my '36 needs some adjustment. Good hunting!

Thanks Peter for the phone number. I was saddened to hear of his passing; he served the hobby well!

Does anyone know who is handling the disposition of Wayne Brandon's company "The Plymouth Doctor"? I'm trying to locate one of his suppliers. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jim

I'll tell you Roger, your attention to detail is out of this world! What a beautiful model! These cars need to end up in a museum! What talent!

I'm going to show my ignorance, but how would a solenoid replace a mechanical contact? I might have an extra starter rod if the car is the same.

Personally, I have no idea, but I think it may be more trouble than it's worth.