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Sorensen_DK

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  1. You have 7 layers, grain crossed. I wouldn't worry a bit considering your application. Carry on.
  2. Never noticed the U S A detail ... I can confirm that my '38 export model (Europe) also has U S A on it but came with the nondescript hood emblem (separate partno.)
  3. On the P15-D24 web site is an in depth description of the heat riser: http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/heat_riser_adviser.html Has excellent resource section and forum for anything Mopar flathead. Tom
  4. You might try gravity feeding the carb from a lawnmover tank thus eliminating any fuel line and pump issues. Did you successfully bring the car above 50mph before the tune-up? If so, your distributor work would be prime suspect. By rebuilding the carb you might have introduced another problem. Tom
  5. Also just guessing: maybe a hanger was vulcanized to the rubber creating a rubber sandwich to stop vibration. Any trace of a rear hanger?
  6. Just off the top of my head......as I recall the pointed end is different on pass/driver's side.....something to look out for. BTW: all the moldings are stainless. Great to see one more D8 saved (even more a 2-door.) TOM
  7. Willowgrass, all rare/costly - but you know that. Headlights often rusted out or converted to sealed beam. Tail lights used on most '37-'38 mopars, surface on ebay from time to time. Complete set with stands expensive. Low front end pot metal often badly pitted, rear medallion (and front top one) same on ´37/´38. License plate light unique to '38 dodge - mostly rusted out. '37 Dod is same but no <DODGE> glass. I have a reference for a guy who make (or made) reproduction sill plates but I need to look for it (never saw any used ones worth buying.) All the stuff can be found but you need patience. Sorry I couldn't give you any specific leads. Tom
  8. Hi willowgrass, I doubt anyone would rebuild a D8 engine and not use it. Probably the D8 engine/block for rebuild could be found - they must be out there. Then, the shipping cost could be prohibitive. You should be able to find a working trans that doesn't need a rebuild. '38 Ply, Dod, DeS and Chr6 should interchange. Also I think the cheap '39 Ply had floor shift. '37 Dod (and other Mopars?) had floor mounted parking brake.....it could be a different setup that doesn't work with your pistol grip parking brake. Where in China are you? Tom
  9. I would like to add to carbking's excellent advise that the UK made SU pumps come in versions that can be firewall mounted, i.e. sit above the tank. One more thing: if one goes fully electrical make sure the pump has the capacity to feed the engine at full throttle. Tom
  10. I would like to mention another benefit of an electrical pump: You can prime the carb if it goes dry when the car sits for a longer period of time. Saves a lot of cranking. I have both on mine. In your case I would rebuild the mechanical since parts are readily available. Tom
  11. Jim, Your engine number (driver's side, front, below head) should start D5 (1937), D8 (1938), D11 (1939). Tom
  12. Dave, I have 39 1/2", and 53" (lid outside, center) - appears to be a match. BR, Tom
  13. Fenders are the same. I you have measurements of the Chr lid I can check for you. There could be differences regarding position of license bracket/light and medallion. Tom
  14. First the disclaimer: I never unstuck an engine like yours. But, I read about a guy that dealt with an engine seriously stuck like yours. He used what I would term "sustained torque" by mounting a U-bar on the flywheel and added weights. It took several weeks before the engine loosened up. He actually heard the bar hit the floor and knew it was free! The clever thing is you just soak the bores add weigh......and wait. Eventually the rings will break loose or something else will break. By increasing arm and/or weight you can achieve any torque needed. Tom P.S. Before doing this I would make sure the timing gear is not jammed, or better remove the chain.
  15. From what I've heard "Uvira" is the way to go. Lenses are Riteway and unique to '38 Dod/Chr, should be partno 687393. Bernbaum wouldn't be my first choice.....go slow on the headlamp thing.....price on lenses can be rather extreme. Years back bulbs appeared on ebay quite frequently. They came in boxes of 12 pcs as I recall. I don't have access to my stuff at the moment so I can't give you bulb numbers or measurements. Tom
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