Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mowog

  1. I'm sure the coil is most frequently the culprit, but not always. I recently cured a problem like this with the MG by replacing the rotor. When warmed up, it would run ok on the throttle, but miss and splutter and eventually shut down at idle. When I tried to restart, it would spin like a top on the starter but never a huff or puff until it cooled down, like 20-30 minutes. Then it would act like nothing was ever wrong.
  2. Also, Tyler, don't be a dummy like me and skip changing the torque ball seal while you have everything out. I was kind of overwhelmed by it all, I guess, but been regretting that ever since, the dripping, the dripping ... Haven't gotten around to it yet. In my defense, got this car the year my twin boys were born (they're 12), been busy :-) Somehow managed to do the engine while they were babies, but sure wish I'da done that silly seal while it was easy. Dan
  3. Don: agreed. I know for me it would be a lifetime of frustration. Dan
  4. Well, Don ... it was 12 years ago, and 12 hours is a stretch for my memory But yeah, looking at the rest of the photos I took, I set it down on a pair of sawhorses and stripped it down to the bare block. On the stand it had nothing in it but the cam. Too long, I do remember having the block milled at one shop, the crank ground at another, putting it all back together on that stand, new bearings and rods and pistons from Terrill Machine. Reason I did all this was when I got the car two of the pistons were broken, cyls all scored up. Should mention, one thing that helps a lot pu
  5. Tyler, sorry I'm late to the party, you've probably got it done by now, but here's my engine on the way out, and on the stand. I did take off the head and oilpan before removal, but left the gearbox on. Dan
  6. Tyler, DonM and jenz38 are right, the front stabilizer is kind of in the way, and it's not hard to unbolt the brackets and bolt them back up afterward. Jack up the center of the crossmember, put a jackstand on either side. Don't have to bother with the rear end. While you're in there, yeah, take the pickup off the pump (think there's just a cotter pin) and clean out the screen. Assuming you're just dropping the pan to clean it. Dan
  7. That 350 crate's a lot lighter than the straight 8, so you'll probably want to take off more. Unless you're going with the MustangII front end. No telling, then, just have to try it.
  8. Hey, I'm no tuning expert, but in reference to overheating, seems like I always see suggestions like "carb set too lean" and "timing too advanced", or the opposite, or something like that. Sorry. The details just won't ever stick in my feeble brain.
  9. My boys (now 5) became big fans of the movie Cars, and decided my red MGA was Lightning McQueen. Of course this required the Buick to be dubbed "Doc" (if you've seen the movie), despite there being a slight difference between a burgundy '38 Buick Special and a blue '52 Hudson Hornet - at least they're both vintage coupes.
  10. Many thanks, suchan. I'll take a crack at making something that looks like that. Then probably go the Boyer route!
  11. Brian, IF this doesn't pan out (hopefully it will), a couple weeks back in this thread, 1939_buick asked about the exhaust. He's right, exhaust back-pressure could explain your symptoms. And in light of what you did between "does work" and "doesn't work", seems more likely to me. If the engine were just rebuilt, I'd think you'd have a nice new timing chain in there. Dan
  12. Thanks, guys. Mark, if you could do that, I'd sure appreciate it. No rush, but figured if nothing else, if I could get a good-enough look I could make some facsimile myself to plug into the holes. Grant, I'll try to check with Skip also.
  13. Wonder if anyone could describe or post a pic of the little trim pieces that set into the garnish molding just below the driver's & passenger's window openings? They're missing on my '38, and I've never had the opportunity to get a close look at the real article. Is anybody making reproductions? I know there wouldn't be a real big market Just a few minor details left to attend to inside this car. Thanks! Dan
  14. Regarding hot start, I'd previously seen Carbking's procedure and can also attest that it works with my Buick, although I'll admit that I use a push button starter. Not sure how it works with the standard accelerator-activated switch. In addition, take the transmission out of gear. The starter can spin the engine easier this way. Less inertia, I guess.
  15. Hi guys, stupid question time. I've been knocking myself out for the past couple of months trying to make a timing-cover oil leak go away. One thing after another, too long to go into full detail, but bottom line is I've sleeved the balancer hub and replaced the rope seal with a rubber one that just happened to be in the gasket set from Bob's. After multiple tries, it's still leaking. Maybe I still have it off-center, but I'm also wondering if I put the dang slinger in backwards? This is all subsequent to rebuilding the engine, which took me a year, and by that time I forgot how it came o
  16. I got curious (ok, and a tad inebriated, it's Saturday night), so just went down to the garage and crawled underneath the rear-end of my 38 with a light, a rag, and a wire brush ... found "40" right on the bottom of the diff; not sure what that's saying, though I *know* it's a 4.4-1 ratio.
  17. Grant, regarding that front-end oil leak, I'm with you. When I put the engine back together, I just kept the old timing chain (penny wise, pound foolish, I know). Had it reassembled, on sawhorses, ready to hook up the hoist, and went "NO!" and called Bob's for a new chain. Of course, I had to take off the timing cover, and didn't have a new gasket, thought I could take care of the torn-up spots with goop. Doesn't seem to have worked - it's leaking oil, from, I THINK, around the bolts. Tried stuffing in some sealant, not much help. Hoping as the engine breaks in the rings will seal so ther
  18. Grant, for what it's worth, I still have two half-empty cans of starter fluid in the trunk from before I rebuilt mine. Don't need 'em any more, I put a kit in the carb and the accelerator pump works great now, but darn it, I have the same issue as you when its cold - step on the throttle and it stalls, unless I floor it. I'm wondering if I don't have the choke set right and I'm flooding it with the pump with no air coming in. If you figure YOUR carb out first, let me know. And congratulations on correcting your cranking issue!
  19. Hey Paul, yeah, when I first reinstalled my engine, I put in the block/trans and got everything bolted up, then dropped the head down on top. So, had to set the valve lash with the engine in the car, turning by hand with a socket wrench. I think I was having to put the socket on the nut, then put the wrench on the socket, then a piece of pipe on the socket handle. Then of course the socket would fall off the nut, or the wrench off the socket, I'd cut up my knuckles some more, cuss, and so on. Pure fun, standing on a box and stretching over that big ol' fender. YOU know. Plus, I was doing
  20. Paul, I for one would like to say thanks for that video. That was cool. I also have a question: under the valve cover, it looks like you have two (?) pipes running more-or-less the length of the head. Are they oil pipes? I can't tell from the view, and there's nothing like that in my valvetrain. Wonder if I'm missing something. And Grant, I guess by now you've found out for yourself how much fun it is to get a socket on that crankshaft pulley. The radiator fins and fan blades are SHARP, aren't they? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> But as Aaron
  21. Try Bob's Automobilia. They'll send your mounts to Steele for re-vulcanizing, and charge you considerably less than if you went directly to Steele. Steele does good work.
  22. Glenn, I just went through this a couple months ago. Greg is correct that the bellhousing has to go on first. As he says, you can't get the top two bolts back in if the flywheel is already on. Also, be aware that there are two locating dowels that have to be used for it to align properly. Hopefully the're still in the block or the bellhousing. I had to work a bit to get the flywheel back in there, too, but it went. Bill is right that you have to orient the flywheel to the crankshaft flange correctly. Examine them closely, there should be some kind of reference mark on both to be able to
  23. Yippee! I did a little web-surfing last night to learn something about how locks work, in particular the side-bar wafer-tumbler cylinder lock in question (all new to me). Today I went and talked to a local old-timer locksmith, who said it sounded pretty certain that the lock was just dead, side-bar stuck, and if he came over he'd most-likely wind up drilling it out. And he wouldn't have a chance for another week. When I got home, I went to the garage and fiddled with the lock some more, but this time got mad enough that I got out the power drill and a half-inch bit and drilled it out mysel
  24. Tom, I don't have an answer for your problem (IS it a problem??), unless you have air in the tube to the oil pressure guage ... but, have you been to http://www.mgcars.org? There are a couple of MG T-series boards there.
  25. Thanks, Bill. Well, I've thrown plenty of profanity at it; I guess I could TRY perseverance! There is this odd screw on the underside, about where you describe the "tiny hole". I unscrewed it and almost lost the little bitty ball bearing that was sitting on top of it. Don't know what it does, but the lock still wouldn't turn with it out so I put it back in. The shop manual has some drawings, but I can't make heads or tails of 'em. I just don't know. It's not like it's rusty or anything, it was working fine, then all a sudden "catch-jiggle-turn", next "catch-jiggle-jiggle-turn", then "catch
  • Create New...