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About mowog

  • Birthday 12/06/1957

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  1. I'm sure the coil is most frequently the culprit, but not always. I recently cured a problem like this with the MG by replacing the rotor. When warmed up, it would run ok on the throttle, but miss and splutter and eventually shut down at idle. When I tried to restart, it would spin like a top on the starter but never a huff or puff until it cooled down, like 20-30 minutes. Then it would act like nothing was ever wrong.
  2. Also, Tyler, don't be a dummy like me and skip changing the torque ball seal while you have everything out. I was kind of overwhelmed by it all, I guess, but been regretting that ever since, the dripping, the dripping ... Haven't gotten around to it yet. In my defense, got this car the year my twin boys were born (they're 12), been busy :-) Somehow managed to do the engine while they were babies, but sure wish I'da done that silly seal while it was easy. Dan
  3. Don: agreed. I know for me it would be a lifetime of frustration. Dan
  4. Well, Don ... it was 12 years ago, and 12 hours is a stretch for my memory But yeah, looking at the rest of the photos I took, I set it down on a pair of sawhorses and stripped it down to the bare block. On the stand it had nothing in it but the cam. Too long, I do remember having the block milled at one shop, the crank ground at another, putting it all back together on that stand, new bearings and rods and pistons from Terrill Machine. Reason I did all this was when I got the car two of the pistons were broken, cyls all scored up. Should mention, one thing that helps a lot pulling the engine is that tilt thing I have on there. Bought that back when I was working on my MG, don't know how anybody gets THAT engine out or back in without one. Dan
  5. Tyler, sorry I'm late to the party, you've probably got it done by now, but here's my engine on the way out, and on the stand. I did take off the head and oilpan before removal, but left the gearbox on. Dan
  6. Tyler, DonM and jenz38 are right, the front stabilizer is kind of in the way, and it's not hard to unbolt the brackets and bolt them back up afterward. Jack up the center of the crossmember, put a jackstand on either side. Don't have to bother with the rear end. While you're in there, yeah, take the pickup off the pump (think there's just a cotter pin) and clean out the screen. Assuming you're just dropping the pan to clean it. Dan
  7. That 350 crate's a lot lighter than the straight 8, so you'll probably want to take off more. Unless you're going with the MustangII front end. No telling, then, just have to try it.
  8. Hey, I'm no tuning expert, but in reference to overheating, seems like I always see suggestions like "carb set too lean" and "timing too advanced", or the opposite, or something like that. Sorry. The details just won't ever stick in my feeble brain.
  9. My boys (now 5) became big fans of the movie Cars, and decided my red MGA was Lightning McQueen. Of course this required the Buick to be dubbed "Doc" (if you've seen the movie), despite there being a slight difference between a burgundy '38 Buick Special and a blue '52 Hudson Hornet - at least they're both vintage coupes.
  10. Many thanks, suchan. I'll take a crack at making something that looks like that. Then probably go the Boyer route!
  11. Brian, IF this doesn't pan out (hopefully it will), a couple weeks back in this thread, 1939_buick asked about the exhaust. He's right, exhaust back-pressure could explain your symptoms. And in light of what you did between "does work" and "doesn't work", seems more likely to me. If the engine were just rebuilt, I'd think you'd have a nice new timing chain in there. Dan
  12. Thanks, guys. Mark, if you could do that, I'd sure appreciate it. No rush, but figured if nothing else, if I could get a good-enough look I could make some facsimile myself to plug into the holes. Grant, I'll try to check with Skip also.
  13. Wonder if anyone could describe or post a pic of the little trim pieces that set into the garnish molding just below the driver's & passenger's window openings? They're missing on my '38, and I've never had the opportunity to get a close look at the real article. Is anybody making reproductions? I know there wouldn't be a real big market Just a few minor details left to attend to inside this car. Thanks! Dan
  14. Regarding hot start, I'd previously seen Carbking's procedure and can also attest that it works with my Buick, although I'll admit that I use a push button starter. Not sure how it works with the standard accelerator-activated switch. In addition, take the transmission out of gear. The starter can spin the engine easier this way. Less inertia, I guess.
  15. Hi guys, stupid question time. I've been knocking myself out for the past couple of months trying to make a timing-cover oil leak go away. One thing after another, too long to go into full detail, but bottom line is I've sleeved the balancer hub and replaced the rope seal with a rubber one that just happened to be in the gasket set from Bob's. After multiple tries, it's still leaking. Maybe I still have it off-center, but I'm also wondering if I put the dang slinger in backwards? This is all subsequent to rebuilding the engine, which took me a year, and by that time I forgot how it came out. Oughta know by now, but I don't. Should the outer rim of the slinger point toward the front of the car, or toward the rear, i.e. should the cupped profile be forward or backward? Seemed to me it would "sling" better pointing toward the gears/chain, but maybe that's not the idea. Anybody know? Thanks! Dan p.s.: this is on the '38 Special
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