TheLanesinNY

Members
  • Content Count

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About TheLanesinNY

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Other items in the rear include the turbo brace and the turbo water return line. These are accessible from under the car if the car is up on ramps or better. The oil line has a hose clamp, the water line is a flare at the block and the brace is bolted. Timing belt needs to come off cam. If you can keep it supported you may not need to retime all the pulleys. If it was me would consider other ways to remove plug remains including lots of de-rusting lube and maybe left hand drill bits. Of course would require lots of careful clean up in the cylinder through the hole. once put an insert in a turbo one with the head on the engine. Have also replaced head gaskets with out completely removing the head from the car, exhaust and many of the lines stayed connected. There are two different engines in 2.2 89 TC's that are listed as P. Some are 88 motors and others are 89 which are the common block. Both have the three speed auto transmission. Many different parts including timing belts, pulleys, water pump, O2 sensor, block, crank and some seals etc. You didn't mention colors etc, I'm less than 50 miles from you. -Rich
  2. OK looked at my spare 16V get rag, there is a lower bolt & clamp that mounts the gear/bearing assembly much like the auto trans versions do. Two more quick checks, does the cruse work, assuming it did before the speedometer stopped? Since it uses the distance pulses fed to the computer. Do you have access to the DRB 2 or a SnapOn diagnostic tool? They can let you know if the computer is seeing speed sensor pulses. I suppose in a pinch you could take a voltage reading at the cluster, as long as the distance sensor line is changing even at slow speed than it is probably functioning. Sorry, i don't recall which side the battery voltage comes from. -Rich
  3. You can run a quick test by spinning the distance sensor with an electric drill or old record player motor (harness connected with the key on) to see if the odometer and or the speedometer move. The sensor is just a simple reed switch and magnet. If it works like this than the gear in the trans-axle has a problem. I think the gear is suppose to stay clipped to the sensor. It might pop up if you can spin the half shaft on that side of the transaxle in the correct direction with the sensor missing. When i have serviced those it was from under the car by feel since it is a long reach from the top. -Rich
  4. First problem, there are at least three different hoods on TC's Early build 1989 with egg crate foam that was glued to the hood. (with at least eight flat pieces to fill voids underneath.) The rest of the 1989's with egg crate foam that was glued to the hood. (with at least eight flat pieces to fill voids underneath.) 1990-1991 some type of pressed mat with a penta-trident embossed near the middle. This mat was attached with plastic clips. I think i have pictures of all of the pads, but have only one car with an intact foam pad.
  5. The 1989 and the 90-91 models have a number of differences in there electrical systems. The list of items for fuse number six from page 8W-6 of the blue service manual list: "Stop, Under Hood, Bin, Illuminated Entry, Courtesy, Vanity Mirror, Lamps; Power Mirror Motors, And Speed Control". A melted wire on the under hood is a common problem. It can be unplugged near the brake assembly. Otherwise I would go through the list and look for anything that does not work including the lights for the exterior door locks. -Rich
  6. Red manual (90-91) starting on page 14-47. Blue Manual (89) starting on page 14-24. I am not aware of a build sheet (but i'm not the expert), but for 91 the only option was the CD player instead of the cubby. Four paint colors, two interior and soft top colors. Those were the only choices in 91 TC's. -Rich
  7. Actually you are both correct. See page 5-9 in the blue manual. The MST-6163 with 6244 are for Hydraulic Pressure testing and the MST-6400 is for the electrical testing. Depending on the test you might only need one or you might need both. I'm still missing the adapter. If pump ran all the time before, I new accumulator would be a good thing, but will not cure that problem. Assuming it's not spraying brake fluid somewhere, either the pump is weak, doesn't have enough voltage or there is an internal leak somewhere in the hydraulic assembly. Even on a normally working system (with key on and engine off) you can hear the pump slow down before it shuts off as the pressure gets close to it's shut off pressure of 2320 - 2755 PSI -Rich
  8. By jumper he is referring to a clip lead or a piece of wire. This 12 Volt positive bypasses the ASD relay. Once drove an 85 turbo dodge around that way a week or two since the power box (now built into the SMEC/SBEC) had failed. Of course this removes an important safety feature built into the auto, which would shut off the injectors, fuel pump and ignition once the engine stops turning. You don't need to ground anything, this method uses all the normal returns. In reference to the person about to throw in the towel, this is why i always recommend test first, don't replace until you locate the failure, other wise you sometimes replace a lot of parts but the problem only gets worse from disturbing connections, lines and other items. (Unless you are doing a full restoration, in which case it's not really the same car.) -Rich
  9. Appears to be direct off the switch on the transaxle. Ignition switch through fuse #2 to Neutral Safety/Back-up lamp switch to several body plugs to back up lights. See section 8W drawings Q5, Q6 and Q57, Q58. EAR label see page 25-2 of the blue service manual. Don't forget to unplug the temperature sensor before setting the timing see page 8D-9. -Rich
  10. This may sound like an obvious answer but my early 89 16V lists on the Vehicle Emission Control Information label: RA8HC DCPR7E The owners manual that was in the glove box (Which appears to be for a 90): RA8YC -Rich
  11. Invitation for all TC owners within driving distance to join us at the TC Tent located in Carlisle PA for any or all of July 8th through the 10th. We also have dinner reservations at Sunnyside both Friday and Saturday evening. Hope to see you there. If you do it right away discounted entry is still available. -Rich & Sally Lane
  12. This may seem like a silly question, but why is every one so quick to tear it down. Take the time to do the proper diagnostics first. It this case it sounds like that might be a compression test and depending on the out come a blow-by and or a look see with a miniature camera. You could save a lot of time, trouble and other possible broken parts. Loose items might be able to be removed through the spark plug hole. Gaskets for these engines are mostly unique and are hard to come by. Don't hear of surgeons doing exploratory surgery these days anymore...... -It has been a long winter here, but did three shows this month....Rich
  13. We had been hoping to go, but Sally is on weekly Federal Jury call in all month and could be required to appear at any time... Well maybe next year. -Rich
  14. Had the same problem I think with two different TC's. Problem cleared when the outside door handle linkage was lubricated (and worked) through the slot created by the open window. Might need a flash light and some kind of lubrication with a long tube. Both were the passenger side. The lock could not release since the outside linkage never fully relaxed. -Rich
  15. It's my best guess the same spring is not unique to the TC. Many other automatic on the console mid 80's MOPAR vehicles should use the same part. -Rich