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  1. If you don't plan on using the A/C for a while, simply disconnect the compressor (I did this every winter). Clearing the code should take care of the A/C light.
  2. Depends where you live. Emission laws vary from province to province, state to state.
  3. Contrary to to the above, replacing your cat with a test/straight pipe will not compromise fuel economy or engine performance. Furthermore, the O2 sensor is located before the cat so you will not have any issues with codes.
  4. I replaced my cat with a straight pipe several years ago & haven't had any issues (no fumes, no rasp). If anything, the exhaust note is a little deeper.
  5. Don, I replaced my cat with a straight pipe several years ago & haven't had any issues (no fumes, no rasp). If anything, the exhaust note is a little deeper.
  6. I had the same problem only at 40 mph. Replaced the ignition/coil pack & plug wires, now runs like new.
  7. Yes, it will run fine with a straight pipe - I removed my cat over 10 years ago & haven't had any issues. Sounds better too.
  8. UPDATE... Finally had a chance to clean the IAC today & now she purrs like a kitten. Thanks Padgett!
  9. If it's got something to do with the door handle, then the mystery is solved as someone tried to break into the car a while ago & bitched the handle. I guess the repair was not 100%. Thx!
  10. I just noticed that I don't get the usual "show" anymore. Anyone else have this? I won't miss it but am wondering if this should be cause for concern. Thanks & regards, Brent
  11. I have always thought to myself "If only I could bump up the RPM's a little bit...". How can I do this? In the meantime, I will clean both the IAC & MAF (probably long overdue anyway) & will report back any improvement. Thanks to everyone for your input!
  12. Hi everyone, I have an '89 that does not idle smoothly when stopped in gear. For instance, when waiting at a red light, RPM'S will quickly fluctuate from 650 to 600 back up to 650 resulting in a bit of a shudder that lasts about a second. Over time it seems to be getting progressively worse. Conditions: Very smooth idle @ 750 RPM when in Park/Neutral RPM'S drop to 650 when in gear Fuel system has recently been treated (problem existed before treatment) Battery & charging system are good Other than this little hiccup, car runs & performs excellent Dirty IAC? Dirty MAF? Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks in advance, Brent
  13. Rawja, I agree with your temperature theory 100% as I experienced the same thing in summer time stop & go traffic but never in the cold winter months. There is definitely a link between temperature & failure...the Reatta is now my winter beater with no braking issues whatsoever.
  14. Same problem here Bill- the hotter the ambient temp, the greater chance my brakes will fail (particularily when excessive braking is required in start/stop traffic). I am pretty sure it is my main valve as I have replaced my pressure switch, accumulator & relays. Also, my tap & thump (last step on the brake test) are not what they used to be.