imported_v12lincoln

would you have the stainless pieces that go on the front of the doors and rear of the tops of the door, also theres a piece on each side on the front of the quarter window or where the top meets. they are small pieces.

Yes it is, due to the intake not being bolted to the exhaust for heat it uses a water line to do the job, makes it a little cooler intake charge for a little better performance. You will have to make a block off plate for you stock exhaust manifold when using this intake, or get in touch with Turbopacman for his ideas on using small block chevy bloch hugger headers, I have a set and it looks like just some minor mods to make them work, Im going to use them on my wifes vette now that the 36 is gone.

It just looks like 2 pullies on the Alt due to the chrome reflection, it is only one pully. If you run 6 volt tractor coils you wont need the resistors and will get a much hotter spark, I havent had any problems yet. I made my own 6 volt + ground Alt since I had a chrome case laying around, you can get the kits on ebay if you dont have a good parts store ar rebuild shop around.

I didnt get what I was looking for for my 36 so I kept the intake to sell now, Its the nicest edmunds 2x2 intake I have seen for a Packard ever, its was polished about 5 years ago and could use a little touch up again. Im asking 500+shipping and will throw in the carb thats on it and a slightly used NOS Packard 2bbl wgd and a used wgd to go with it and the carb thats on it if you want it. I have to find what I did with the NOS WGD, miss placed with 3 car pojects going on. Pm me here if your interested.

Here is my Edelbrock 2x2 intake on my 48 conv. coupe Im using stock lincoln carbs with spacers from speedway motors, kave the power valves in both carbs and running .52 jets Idid the switch to two six volt coils from a tractor that can run on 6 volts all the time and the car runs great, wish it was a 3x2 for better gas milage but what can you do. Now I need to up grade my brakes so it stops as good as it runs.

The hole is closer to the center and the jute backing will have to come up unless there is a hole cut in it to access the master cylinder.It is a big pain to add brake fluid.

I set my points on a distributor machine and when I bolted it on it chached the dwell 12 degreesm dont know why this happened but I had 3 more dist, and they all did the same thing, so after using the machine I used a dwell meter and set the point while on the car, belive me its not an easy job and took me 3 day to do it but it starts right up first time every time, I found my Tach/Dwell meter for 15 bucks at the local outdoor swap meet, got a Snap On and one of the wires were broke and they fixed it for free.

I was looking for the artical to make sure I had all the wiring hooked up right. I used the bottom half of an old Lincoln coil to mount my coils on, just cleaned out the holes in the bottom and ran a piece of Packard 440 wire in there and soldered it in place, used some silicone to glue the coils in place and hooked up the wires, I used UC14 coils off an old frod tractor since they dont need resistors and will run on straight 6 volt and now get a nice bright blue spark that will shoot at least 1 1/2 inches. Much eaiser starting and alot more power, now I have to change it out to disce brakes so it will stop as good as it runs. No more being stranded thanks to A&S products, I hate that jerk and have a coil to give him where the sun wont shine.

Yes it is, Thanks. I would have to do some checking but that is about the same size as most Band C body dodges in case you are ever interested in swapping it out for something thats easy to get parts for.

while you have it out could you give me the length from backing plate to backing plate. it looks like a dodge 8 3/4" or ford 9 inch and im sure you could find one to replace it with if you are so inclined. if you need measurements for the dodge 8 3/4" diff check out bigblockdart.com and go to thier tech pages and you will find the measurements for most of the body types there.

I am going to talk to Jake Fleming and see if he can fix it if I get it apart and the case repaired, it got so hot it cracked in three place, dont notice the cracks when it cools down but boy this guy is one shoddy rip off artist.

Thanks Peter. I will do that as soon as my 6 volt coils come in.

Thanks Peter. I am planning the same thing but mount both coils on the bottom plate, I had a spare from an old broken V12 coil. only thing I was wondering about is where the ground wires from the coils go? do they go to ground say at one of the hold down screws or do they go to the condensers? Sometimes you have to make due with what you have and Lincoln V12 coils dont grow on trees.

My wife threw away all my old TWOZ magasines to make room for the Grandkids, now that I need them Im out of luck. anyone have a copy of TWOZ when they did the coil conversion using two 6 volt can coils? By the way you might want to start stocking up on some of these, out here in calif they want 65-85 for a single 6 volt coil, I had to order a pair from Illinois to get a fair price, even with shipping they were cheaper than one coil out here.

If Robert Anzalone from A & S products is still advertising in TWOZ for coil repair do not give him any business. I sent him a coil and it worked good for a year and then started overheating evan with good resistors and would cut out, these were suppose to have a lifetime warrenty but now he says he is out of the business. so please dont send this POS anything he wont stand behind his work. We dont need people like this in the old car business. Anyone know where I can get a coil repaired with a cracked case, thats how hot it got, then I was stranded on the road for 2 hours while it cooled down. If nothing else I have a good base plate to mount a set of single 6 volt coils on.

Thanks. I also found the OD manual with all the troubleshooting guide over on packard information site. Thanks to you and BigKev for all your help.

Anyone know how to run the tests to unlock the OD? I must have moved some wiring and grounded a wire because it was working perfect this morning.

The old style do have points that can be filed but with the new fuel the diaphrams go pretty quick, the newer pumps do run all the time and can be a little noisy unless you mount them on some rubber isolaters then they are very quite. just hook up a toggle switch to shut it off when its not needed, and yes the mechanical pump will pull through them. if you want a real good on go to summitracing.com and look up the carter 6 volt pump they run about 85 bucks but worth it.

Before you go to changing it out, try taking it out and putting 2-3 drops of gear oil in the inlet tube, let it sit there for 2-3 minutes then move the arm back and forth, the gear oil will make the felts swell back up and make a good seal. I have done it to 3 of my Packards and they still work perfect and thats been more than 7 years ago for the first one, just did it to my 36 and they work great and doesnt cost much at all.Learned it from my Grandfather who is 91 and he learned the trick back in the 30s. Good Luck with it no mater which way you choose.

Sold

Thanks Phil. I knew I could count on you.

Sold

Anyone know what the wheel bolt pattern is on a 48 Lincoln? 5x5 or 5x5 1/2 my car is in storage and cant get to it for awhile.

If you did, I was the young guy in the Rat Fink T shirt driving the 41 business coupe. Anyway, I was wondering if any of you might know who the gentleman was that had most of the 37 JR dash. After I got home and looked at my dash it is a 37 and I could use all the parts he had. Any help would be appreciated.

I have used an ohm meter on the sending unit and it does read like you said 20 ohms full and 120 empty, and the fuel guage is the Stewert Warner type. both guage and sending unit are grounded when testing. Maybe I just have a bad NOS guage.. I will take it apart and see whats up, I have an uncle that can rebuild the guage if its needed. Thanks for the picture of the inside of the Ford sending unit, looks just like the one I just replaced in my 48 Lincoln conv. coupe.