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Everything posted by Speedster

  1. Hello everyone, Thanks for asking, I'm doing well, my hand is slowly improving. I just changed hobbies for a while. I've built RC ships all my life but never diving Submarines, so though I'd give that a try. I recently finished one and have 2 others in work. One is 66" long with working torpedo launchers and onboard video camera/transmitter. They have been a fun challenge. I plan to work on my Packards some, now that the weather is getting better. I hope everyone is having as much fun as I am. Thanks, Rick
  2. Yes, Very Improtant to remove those push-rods! Get the pistons moving first, then work on the valves. Get valves moving without push-rods installed. If you have to remove the heads to do it, then it must be done to prevent damage.
  3. Wow, It certainly Looks All original.
  4. All I know is that you have to drill a BIG Hole in A-pillar. Once it's in there, there's No turning back. So you better be sure it's in a good usable spot.
  5. Man, I'm Glad Someone is Not Confused!
  6. The car pictured Looks like a '28 526. Certainly Not a 640 or 645! The engine may be a different story, tho. Which is Okay.
  7. Sorry, Pete I can Not say that I made a Mistake, for any reason, because I KNOW that I am Correct, about the German-silver plating. And I hope that someday it will be proved to you also. And as you say, that will be the Last I say about that subject, on this forum.
  8. I would apologize for 'Rocking the Boat', but it's All West's Fault, for bringing it up again! LOL
  9. If you need proof, you could take a door handle, with original GS plating, to a metalurgist and have them analyze the alloy's element content. It should be about 20% Nickel, 20% Zink and 60% Copper.
  10. German-Silver plating (later called Nickle-Silver) was used for ALL Packard door-handles and some other interior parts, prior to WW2, and many other interior and exterior parts prior to '29. It's an alloy of Nickel, Zink and Copper. No Myth, Facts, It looks very different than any other plating.
  11. Yes, they were produced both ways. The buyer could order it with or without also.
  12. Are Gear sets difficult to find for the '47 ?
  13. Speedster


    As I've said before, To many Packard owners it's not About making money, or even the supposed Value of their cars. It's about 'Keeping them All Original'.
  14. The restrictor at filter, on '29, is an ordinary looking brass fitting, from the outside, but has a very small hole thru it, internally. It's mounted into Inlet side of filter-housing. I bought a NOS filter and the restrictor came with it.
  15. I found a picture of the correct orintation somewhere. I think it was in the Service-manual, but not sure. I'll try to find it again.
  16. There's also a mechanical-oil-valve that is in carburator-choke-linkage, opened when choke is closed, that puts extra oil in cylinders at start up, thru holes in cylinder walls below rings. When valve is open, oil-pressure will be lower. Oil pressure should go back up when choke is opened. The valve is located at right-rear of engine-block. The 2 linkage rods can be connected to valve incorrectly, And the L shaped arm can be installed backwards, causing valve to operate backwards, as choke is opened and closed.
  17. Is it possible that there's also a design flaw with the '32 front-end? Not enough Caster or Camber, maybe? And the the design error shows up when there's any loosness, from ware? Ken, Have you checked the caster & camber, to see what angle they're at?
  18. Sorry Dennis, I was Joking. That's what the LOL means. So, you need both Generator and Regulator, correct? Aren't those regulators still available at Napa? If so, probably should find a generator on eBay or somewhere to match manfacturer of new regulator found.
  19. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packard32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dennis, you need to be a bit more specific on the electricals question...B </div></div> Oh, was he asking a question? I thought he was trying to sell us an oversized Generator??? LOL
  20. As I said, my Info is from 2 'so called' plating Experts, the copy a Packard Plating Spec showing German-silver, and what I've seen agrees with them. Another thing one told me about, that confuses some people, is that after WW2 they started calling German-silver 'Nickel-silver' (same alloy, different name). Just another thing Hitler Screwed-Up! And not all makers had exactly the same alloy Percentages, over the years.
  21. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 40-41 connies</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you have any names of platers in the Dallas Texas area that will do the nickle plating. Thanks </div></div> I think the best one is 'Quality Bumper Service'. 1155 S. Haskell 214-824-7300 Talk to Joe. They will do most any type parts, not just bumpers.
  22. The cowl light looks like German-silver plating to me, as all those parts should be on the '28. (Has the white cast of Zink in the alloy) The lower cowl trim piece appears to be Nickle plated tho. Can't tell about the top trim piece but it kinda looks like G-S. It's hard to tell for sure, with pictures, since lighting can make them look different. Some platers don't want to even talk about G-S, since they are not set to do it, and some don't even Know about it, since they stopped doing it before they were born. To me G-S and pure-Nickel look a lot different, polished or unpolished, but there's nothing wrong with having Nickle plating, since G-S is no longer available. Unless you want to send the parts to Italy, France or UK. Nickel looks Good and is Durable.
  23. Yes, G-S has a White-ish look (due to Zink content), pure Nickel is slightly Gray, and Chrome is much more reflective than the other two. Yes, little or no Chrome or pure Nickel was used before '29. All German-silver. And still using it for interior parts until early '40s. Another big advantage of G-S is that it could be plated directly to steel or pot-metal, no need for copper and nickel layers, like with chrome. Since it has high copper and nickel content already. If you put the 3 next to each other you can really tell the difference.
  24. I got My Info from two local plating shop owners. One of which said he would do G-S plating of small items such as door handles. But I went ahead and had them chrome plated since the G-S plating setup cost would have been too expensive. The other guy got actual '29 Packard plating Specs but wouldn't even consider doing them in G-S. BTW- '29 was the first year for chrome Grille-shell, before that I think they were all G-S plated also.
  25. The main reasons are that Chromium became more readily available at a lower cost, and it's more durable. G-S is slightly softer than chrome and can be worn thin. And of course anything with the German name was hated after WW2, and would not Sell well. Some of us antique car restorters are the only ones that ever request G-S, so why would plating shops want to set a separate plating vat that is very seldom used anymore. I can assure you, they Were plated with German-siler alloy.