Brentman

http://money.cnn.com/2005/01/31/pf/autos/olds_f88_auction/

I'm grasping at straws, but what the hay. Try changing the fuel filter out and see if that helps. if it does, then its likely the old one was clogged. Possible culprit is the gas you're putting in it, if your area has alot of ethanol blends. I've been told that ethanol blends can loosen deposits in the gas tank and fuel lines. These deposites will then clog up the fuel filter. It takes awhile for things to get flushed back out again. So you're stuck swapping out filters periodically for awhile.

so when hot, the car will turn over, but not fire. once cold, it will fire and stay running until it heats up then it quits? Just making sure I've got that much right. You've also already checked the fuel system to make sure its getting gas while hot so you know that's not the issue. I'd start chasing electrical issues. its possible that once hot, something is either shorting out or failing to pass current causing you not to get a spark. Unfortunately, I have zero idea about where to start looking for such a failure.

I'm going to try and post other tidbits as I remember them but I did get stuff for Saturday done this morning. Still no shots in the gallery but that should all be fixed starting this evening. http://www.mnoldsclub.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewforum&f=2 I also still need to coordinate with Steve and Lori to find out if I can post the list of BOC winners on the website before they appear in JWO.

I'm going to keep trying to do a daily journal of the show for those that can't make it. Here's today's entry and there's also one in that forum for yesterday. http://www.mnoldsclub.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=205#205

same thing (drum with stud that press into the hub) on my '68 cutlass. Not sure about the '66 specifically though.

I've got to pull the valve covers (painting them for the nationals) tonight. So I'll check then and get back to you. I also think I still have the installation guide that came with my gauges if you want to see bits of that.

We know not everyone checks our website regularly or even has regular access to the internet. So we're asking for everyone to help pass along notification of some ramp closers due to construction that will affect accessing the show location. Full details at: http://www.mnoldsclub.org/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=40 Thanks, Brent - MOC Web Geek

I've got a volt, temp, oil set mounted under my dash (its an automatic so the tact isn't a real help). its actually my 2nd set (the first went in about 20 years ago). The positive lead for the volt guage comes off the engine. Can't remember precisely where but I believe its on the alternator. I can verify this if needed. The grounds for the guages (including their lights) is done to the dash frame. The positive leads for the guages' lights are spliced into the positive lead for the in-dash clock's lighting. While the last item likely isn't the ideal solution, it does guarantee that whenever the interior lights are needed, I've got them for the guages as well. And since the guage lights are fairly tiny, the extra draw isn't really noticable. Again, this is on my '68. But if I'm thinking clearly, the dash setup for the '69 isn't all that different outside of the ignition swith having moved from the dash to the column.

Just passing along word that I got this weekend. The last Oldsmobile produced is scheduled to attend the 2004 OCA Nationals. This and some other details are on our website at: http://www.mnoldsclub.org

doesn't the fusebox have an auxiliary spot? That's where I tied the stuff in on my '68.

practice on something that doesn't matter. try heading to the local salvage yard and picking up a cheap fender or hood. Practice your skills on that if you're concerned. Worse case you'll invest time to find out you have zero skill. Best case you'll refine your skills and make the mistakes on a piece that won't affect your car.

on my '68, we had to pull both the padding and the plastic bits as a single unit. Doing this resulted in much pain, suffering, scrapped knuckles, and profanity. I certainly would hope there's a better way. But I don't know off-hand what it would be.

Yeah, if you're reading it right, it would be a '71 block, made in Lansing for/by Oldsmobile.

the sport wheel is the one with the center horn button and the 3 aluminum posts, correct? If so, I have one. I had to fix the "donut thing" to get it working. As far as I could surmise, the peg on the "donut thing" contacts the plunger on its spring. When you press the horn button, the two plates in the "donut thing" contact. This allows the circuit to complete and the horn to sound. Based on other observations I'd guess that the screws that hold the donut thing onto the column act as a ground for the switch with the spring loaded plunger in the column being the positive feed. When the button is pushed, the two plates (one that touches the plunger, the other with the screws into the column) touch, thus completing things. I don't have a wiring diagram, but that's the best I've managed to get. I can get some pictures for you tonight if that would help.