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Cargirl

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Everything posted by Cargirl

  1. You always really have to be careful with EBAY and that's a fact. My observation is the little guys generally get back to you ASAP...the individual seller so to speak. EBAY is now over run with would be business men. They are attracted to EBAY because no face to face skills are needed and no customer service is required. There are many reputible business's online, don't get me wrong. BUT, there are many that just throw things out there for sale and see what sells. They never answer their emails and I imagine if you had trouble with what they sold you their replies to your emails would be equally silent. Many times I intentionally ask a question of the seller just to see if I get a response. If I don't I do not buy from them period! I have had many good transactions on EBAY but the one bad one cost me $250.00. The other people that were scammed by her lost as little as $10 but were just as pissed off as me (excuse my poor language). My point is it's not just the dollar amount that angers you, but the fact someone ripped you off really get's peoples emotions bubbling over! I think you were very wise to put off your purchase. I would rather pay a few bucks more but sleep well at night Did you try emailing Jim Finn? That guy has tons of Reatta parts and is very reasonable as far as price goes? Good luck cutie!
  2. Glad you got your baby back Churchman! Another drum roll please....the winner is crank sensor! Mines driving great as well...they charged me 120 for the parts and 190 for labor - total bill $325. Was wondering for opinions on whether this is a fair price or not? It sure feels good when the car finally gets back home doesn't it?
  3. Did you try pulling engine codes from the car?
  4. Thanks for your input Nic, Padgett and everyone else. I have said it before and will say it again...if not for this forum I would be a "former" Reatta owner. This place is invaluable for people that love Reatta's! I remember a car I had years ago and it frustrated me to no end and the final resolution was the ECM....If the car repair place has not fixed it by tomorrow morning, I will pay what I owe and hope like He"LL"o that the car makes it home and promptly replace the ECM. Thanks for the help...again...guys!
  5. Misery loves company I guess. My car is doing the same thing as yours is. All signs let me to believe that the trouble was an ICM which was replaced. It rans for several days after switching it out and failed again. On the way to the mechanic's shop it happened again and this time a code pulled up...the dreaded 042. He was sure that it was a ICM as well even thought I told him it had been replaced. I told him I would not pay for it to be replaced again but he said not to worry....and bingo, it did not work for him either! ( I hate always being right!) He is going through the tech manuel as we speak trying to figure out the trouble...I will post what he comes back with later and hopefully that will help you find your trouble as well. Good luck!
  6. Thanks for asking Nic...it's been in the shop for two three days already...I may have to sell the car to pay for the repair. The worst thing is I just hate admitting defeat....will let you know when I find out~!
  7. Maybe it's a lack of self control, but everytime I get an itch, I am compelled to scratch it Owning cars is fun but buying them is a real rush as well. You would be giving up lots of comfort giving up the Reatta for the MR2 but they are sharp cars! The Corvairs have caught my eye in the past as well Padgett. I don't know why The General never built a rear engine Corvette?? They have sold out the looks of the car to that of a Japanese/European sports car anyway, I thought that when the C5 was introduced in 1997 that would have been a great time to introduce a rear engine model. Good luck finding the perfect MR2 just don't forget your friends back at the Reatta forum
  8. Just to give you a little confidence, I myself did a headlight repair on my '90 without getting over my head and it came out great! For anyone that has droppy or non-functioning headlights don't be afraid to get the kit and make the repair yourself. My lights had been struggling for 6 months before I got the nerve to do it and now it's sheer pleasure to watch them go up and down! Good luck!
  9. Am I the only one that did not know about the forum change? Tried to log on several times and thought the whole site had been deleted. Sorry about your avastar...avitar....or whatever Nic??? Perhaps a trip to the Dr is in order
  10. It has a fairly new MAF but I have never touched the oxygen sensor...would an O2 sensor cause the trouble described?
  11. Wow, good eyes Barney! I have posted about EBAY in the past but it has more sharks in the water than fish so to speak!
  12. The Fuel filter is new. I tend to agree that a fuel pump either fails or runs...that's been the case with other GM cars I have owned. Any other thoughts on stalling with no codes stored? Will have to go to the dreaded mechanic next week otherwise...thanks!
  13. I replaced the ICM but the car is still experiencing trouble. Whereas before the car would get to point A to point B and then fail, now it drives about 10 minutes then stalls out. It will restart and limp home but somethings afoot here. The fuel pump is making a bit of a humming noise, do they usually fail completely when they go out or could this be my trouble? I checked for codes and there are none stored and that's another reason I was thinking perhaps it's a fuel issue. Thanks!
  14. Walmart: $6.95 plus sales tax.
  15. The ignition module connector is secure. I removed it and put it back on again. I did not spray it with wire cleaner and will do so tomorrow. The cam sensor? That's a new one on me but will clean the connectors tommorow as well. One question....where is the can sensor located?? Since I raised the issue (so to speak) I guess I have to own up to it...when the trouble with the car is resolved, the picture will be posted! I do not have a Xena outfit handy, but can give my mailing address for anyone willing and able to send me the outfit for the pic.
  16. Your too kind Nic! Actually, I kinda look like Lucy Lawless...AKA Xena the Warrior Princess. Same hair/eyes and features...and love to wear leather as well I am leaning in favor of the ignition keys resistance being off now. Two times that it did not start after being driving I messed with the coil pack to no avail but waited awhile and it started. I do have both sets of original keys and just started the car 8 times...4 times for each key and it started each time. JiM Finn tells me there is a 5 minute delay if the resistance is high or low and the alarm goes off. Thinking out loud here but I have a Jeep and when the alarm goes off it resets when you hit the key FOB to unlock doors. I wonder if the Buick's are the same and the Key FOB ressets the alarm? Perhaps they can check the resistance at the dealer, will call tomorrow. I will also let you know the results as I play with the car. Jim Finn does have a spare Ignition Module for sale at a very fair price. For any newbies here to the group that read this post, if you need any Reatta parts for your baby, Jim Finn has lots of parts, is extremely fair in his prices and ships quickly. I was burned recently shopping on EBAY and only use it as a last resort. Lots of good deals there for sure, but lots of sharks in them there waters as well.
  17. I tend to agree that it seems like it's the ignition module. Does anyone know the email addy for Jim Finn or Reattadudes? Or perhaps there's someone that has a spare ignition module for sale? Thanks!
  18. Hello Everyone! Don't ya just hate intermittent problems? I have one and am in need of some advise. My 1990 did not start the other day while at the mall. (It could have picked a worse place It was not getting any spark so replaced the ignition coil pack (just the top part:Autozone $44.00) After replacing it the car fired right up. The next day I took it to the grocery store and the same thing...no start. I thought the part fial and took it back to Autozone and put the new one in..fired right up. The next day the same thing happened....started ok but failed after driving it again. This time I took off the coil pack and put it back on...the same one. Did not start right up but waited 5 minutes and turned it over and it started again. It's home now and I pulled all the wires even to the bottom wiring cluster of the coil pack and it starts evertime. I can't get it to fail in the driveway and when I drive it around the neighborhood but now hate to drive it anywhere because it could fail again. Should I replace the bottom part of the coil pack...perhaps a loose wire down there...it's a sealed unit so it's not possible to check it out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  19. Thanks for all the help...I finally took the car to a mechanic and after charging me for 4 hours labor he found two wires that had become frayed. One was a fuel injector wire and the other from the coil pack. Both were frayed somewhere inbetween the component and the computer. Definately beyond my mechanical prowess. Thanks again for your suggestions!
  20. I removed the wired and did the check Mr. Watson suggested and all seem to be firing just fine. I did notice the closest fuel injector to the problem area had some gas where I assume there is an O-ring connecting it to the fuel rail. Are those O-rings replacable or do you need to replace the whole fuel injector? I assume a bad O-ring could cause a "chug chug" in the ol' get and go...any thoughts?
  21. I think the magnet is a good idea personally. I have had cars in the past that have had a magnet on the oil plug and they always seemed to catch some metalic shavings. They sell for under $10 bucks and seem well worth it to me Good eye Nic!
  22. I will take D.K. Watson's advise and endeavour to remove the wires one by one and see what happens. I will post later today the results. As far as weather is concerned, the car (and Driver) are both located in the sonoran desert of Phoenix, Arizona and like usual, it was hot and dry on the day of the incident. What an easy job it would be to be a weatherman out here!! I have avoided driving the car. My thinking is that if it is not a drying issue but something more serious, I would hate to damage the engine by driving it with a problematic mechanical issue. Lastly, since a heater is used so few days out here yearly, I have concluded that the time and expense of making the repair is outweighted by the utility of having it in working condition. If it were the A/C that would be different!
  23. When I came out of the store I noticed the antifreeze on the pavement. I did not start the car at this point. The heater hose is not exactly done in accordance with factory specs. The heater core has a slight leak in it so it has been bypassed by running a single heater hose out of the engine block and then back into the engine block thereby avoiding the core all together. After it was repaired I drove the car 20 feet to when the retailer had a water hose. It ran rough when I started it and has never run smoothly since. I filled the radiator up at this time but assume as another poster described that a air pocket prevented me from filling the entire system up. I then drove it a mile to a service station and the temp gauge shot up rather quickly. No spray resulted from the removal of the cap as I waited 10 minutes before removing it. And if this helps, I was at Home Depot at the time buying some potted plants
  24. The plugs and wires look good...the antifreeze clean and the oil ok as well. There is no smoke coming out the tailpipe either...are there any other symptoms of a head gasket being bad or should I look elseware for the trouble?
  25. Good call Nic! Just checked and the plug wire is ok but it is in the same area as the blown hose. You really do know your Reatta's don't you? Thanks sweets!
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