60ch
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Posts posted by 60ch
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On 3/20/2024 at 10:09 PM, a sell said:
Hello Terry,
I have not been on this forum for a couple of weeks and even then did not see the notification at the top of my home page. I think I have a scanned copy of that article on a thumb drive. Give me your email address in a PM and in the mean time I will make sure I have the info.
a sell, message sent.
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Mine is gone so I need a functional replacement or a pattern to make a new one. I am assuming that they were leather.
Thank you, Terry
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On 2/10/2024 at 11:45 PM, a sell said:
That actually looks like an interesting piece of equipment. Would be fun to get it at least somewhat working again.
So by looking at it, it looks like the coils turn the facing with the triangular colored lenses. In 1929 Chevrolet, and some other manufacturers (Durant for one) used an electric heat gauge. It used a set of 4 bimetallic strips to move a standard electric heat gauge. As Normally the small spring in the gauge would move the needle to the lowest setting. As more bimetallic strip contacts closed to ground, it would move the needle to a warmer setting. When all 4 were closed the needle would move to the HOT setting and you needed to respond. This was in a 1/2" unit threaded into the cylinder head just above the water pump, and used one wire. It was found to be a somewhat problematic assembly and was only used in 1929. Seems like the sending unit was made by the Nagel Company. I suspect the sending unit that you are missing could have had a similar setup with 3, or 4 bimetallic contacts. The middle 2 contacts would indicate in the normal (green) range.
There was a technical article about rebuilding the Chevrolet bimetallic unit and dash gauge in the VCCA technical data site. I think this and the membership directory section are the only 2 areas of the website not accessible to non members. I may have a printed copy of it if you cannot find it elsewhere. I have 3 1929 Chevrolet's.
a sell, Thank you for responding. A search of the internet did not yield any information on the article you mentioned. I would very much like to obtain a copy of that article if you are willing to part with it or possibly a copy of your copy. Let me know if you are able to find that information.
Terry
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Here is a photo showing the gage in the dash of the Dodge DA. Another shows the attachment points for the 4 wires. The bulb that projects the light through the semaphore is shown in 2 photos. The 2 electromagnets that run the unit are shown with a sketch that I drew up. The prism type lens is missing. I did not understand how the driver could see the semaphore flag since it is recessed from the viewing opening. My brother who is a great help with the research found that front view print of the gage (from my initial post) in a book on automotive instruments. It showed how the light came through the semaphore and past the face of the gage via the prismatic lens. I am thinking that the lens was projecting past the face of the gage allowing the driver to see the color easily. Surprisingly that book had no information at all about the gage, just that print. The last photo shows a sketch that I drew showing a view of the inside of the gage and the solder attachment points for the electromagnets.
Thank you, Terry
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pmhowe, Thank you for your reply. I will post more photos tonight. These will show the construction and the wiring. This was an expensive unit to manufacture.
Thank you, Terry
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A few years ago I posted pictures of this gage asking for information on how it worked. I received information on patent searches but thats all. So I'm back asking if anyone has ever seen this gage before. It appears that
the Flash Semaphore Company was incorporated in 1928. No patent was ever issued and the company disappeared from the Chicago list of companies operating in that city after 1929. The stock market crash of 1929, the great depression of 1929 and possibly patent infringement are all possibilities for the demise. This gage was installed in my 1929 Dodge DA when I bought it outside of Chicago in 1988. It is missing parts so it is inoperable. This has been a very interesting project. Apparently this is a scarce item. Has anyone ever seen one or any literature pertaining to the Flash Semaphore temperature gage?
Thank You, Terry
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The 35 Chrysler C-6 optional high compression aluminum head called for a steel head gasket. The cast iron head used a copper head gasket
Terry
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Thanks to all that replied to to my question. Each reply added to the final answer. The .469" diameter converted to millimeters is 11.9 mm. I counted the threads on a 1/2" section of the thread and it came out to 13, multiplied by 2 = 26 TPI.
Checking the Ebay auction site showed a 12mm X 26 tap size as one of the 3 taps available for these tire valves. Thanks again, Frank Duval, Cudaman, viv w, 30DodgePanel and Dandy Dave
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My thread pitch gage set has no match for the thread on these valves. Does anyone know what this thread pitch is? The thread Diameter is .469". This is an Acme TR-40 valve.
Thank you, Terry
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I have found that a leak in the wheel cylinder copper gasket can cause brake fluid to run to the inside of the brake backing plate. The fluid will pool in the bottom of the brake drum. This can ruin the linings if you are turning the wheel while you are adjusting the brake shoes. Good luck.
Terry
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Bob, Is your manifold heat control functioning. I found that mine was rusted in the on position when I got my car. Originally thought it was just
the wire from the dash control knob rusted solid and it was, but so was the Barrel valve in the manifold. Good luck in you search for the problem.
Terry
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The car has had sealed beams installed behind the original headlight lenses. These do not focus. I want to replace this setup with original reflectors and the associated sockets needed to restore the head lights.
Thank you, Terry
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Is your glass thicker than the glass channel was made for?
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Thank you for this post! It is great to hear about a challenge and how it was overcome with available technology. I'm sure that there are many in this group that have obsolete rubber seal issues.
Terry
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If you are in search of an early 30s steering wheel you will see the nicks and grooves damage that these spinners could cause on an otherwise perfect steering wheel.
Terry
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Thanks guys for your suggestions. The UHMW plastic sounds like it would handle the job.
Terry
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A friend recently bought a 39 Plymouth. The car is all stock with the exception of split cast iron exhaust headers and an electric fuel pump. The pump quit working recently and after taking the pump off it was found to be a 6volt pump with a pressure rating of 5 to 8 pounds. The book calls for 4 1/4 pounds maximum pressure for the 39 Plymouth . Can anyone suggest a quality low pressure 6 volt electric pump for use on a positive ground car? If a regulator would be required, a suggestion for that would be greatly appreciated also. I believe that the electric pump was installed because of the proximity of the front header manifold to the original mechanical fuel pump.
Thank you, Terry
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The thrust washer shown in the picture came out of my Gemmer steering box. It is hard, brittle and out of shape. I would like to replace it but I don't know what material it is made from. It appears to be 1/8" in thickness.
This is the last part that I need to reassemble the box. Thanks, Terry
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10 hours ago, 28 Chrysler said:
Open cars ?
I had asked Harry Reding the Dodge DA model technical adviser for the Dodge Brothers Club. He has a DA roadster and several sedans and he is not seen a handle like this.
Where is The Handle Man when you need him?
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Show in the photos is a 1929 DA Dodge 4 door exterior door handle with a short shaft. The other handle looks like the DA Dodge handle but has a long
shaft. Can anyone tell me which car or truck used this long shaft?
Thanks, Terry
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1 hour ago, Angelfish said:
Almost afraid to say it, but I've had a Drill Dr for many years (maybe the earlier ones are better?) It's a moderate pain to set up, it's best to wait until you have several bits to sharpen and do them all at once, and it's not much use for anything smaller than about 3/16. But if you follow the instructions and be sure to split the points I've had good success with it. It's a homeowner grade tool, but it works for what I need it to.
Years ago I was taught to sharpen bits on a bench grinder. Several years ago I was given a new Drill Doctor. I was a skeptic at first but it does work well. As Angelfish said you need to follow the directions. I used it just yesterday.
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I have read all of the posts and watched all of the videos. The history of how Bakelite was originally produced was outstanding. The story of the reproduction of bakelite distributer caps and the costs involved is amazing. That said, I believe that this was the most educational and interesting thread that I have followed. Thanks to all that took part in adding to this discussion. I believe that everybody learned something here, I sure did.
Terry
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39 minutes ago, sagefinds said:
I compared it to a 30 Dodge coupe body here and if the lower corners were rounder,it would fit. Looks to have the same hinge and holes for mounting it to the header are spaced exactly the same. So it's Mopar,probably Dodge,maybe a year or two earlier or later. Thanks 28Chrysler,that helped.
You will find that the DA model Dodge used 2 different windshields. The first had less radius in the lower corners, the second had larger radius in the lower corners. I don't know when the change took place.
Terry
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8 hours ago, Hans1 said:
I have repeated problems with water jacket bolts. The bolts protude into water cavity and have from 1/4 to 3/8 inch of heavy rust on the threads exposed to coolant. Engines are from 1929, 94 years old.
Of the 16 bolts I typically have 8 broken bolts. ( 16 on the last two engines )
When the water jacket covers are removed, the amount of rust after the years is excessive for uncrewing the headless bolt. I have had to resort to carefully drilling, a torch and then re tap.
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I have wondered how well the inductive heating works on cyl head studs with exposed ends in water jacket. To see if it might be an option for my persistant problem.
Cylinder head studs that penetrate the water jacket are the biggest issue for me also. I have not viewed a video yet that shows these home use induction heaters working on head studs in engine blocks. I wonder if there is an industrial
grade unit that professional repair shops use.
Terry
How do I remove the steering wheel on a 1930 Plymouth 30U
in Technical
Posted
A couple of suggestions, You have good info on which puller to buy or to fabricate. I found that a plug like the one pictured is needed for stuck steering wheels. You would put the nut back on the steering shaft ,screw it down all the way to bottom it then back it off 2 turns or just enough so the nut is above the top of the steering shaft. place the plug into the shaft and attach your puller. this will save the threads on the shaft from distorting ang give you a true center that will not move when you put the coals to the puller. The shaft is tapperd at the top so it only has to break contact with the steering wheel taper. A few hits with a hammer may be required. When it pops your steering wheel will not be damaged and you shaft threads will be saved.
The plug should be a slip fit into the steering shaft. The size of the center drilled location on the top of the plug would match the puller that you using.