Joe Kieliszek

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About Joe Kieliszek

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  • Birthday 06/12/1958

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  1. Hello, I used a medium dark maple stain on the dash boards and window ledge boards of my dad's 1910 model 10 Buick as well as my 1911 Buick model 14. Followed that up with many coats of spar varnish (thoroughly dried and wet sanded between coats). I did not have the original dash/ window ledge boards, but all indications pointed to the original finishes as stained/ varnished (of the old reproduced dash & ledge boards). I also stained/ varnished the rear door trim top pieces of my dad's model 10 toy tonneau body. Thanks, Joe :-)
  2. Hello, I finished a video of my Buick, hope you enjoy; Thanks, Joe
  3. Hello, I finished putting together a video on the model 14 and posted it on Youtube; Here is the link: I posted it in 1080 resolution, but it only comes up on Youtube in 480... Thanks, Joe
  4. Hello, These are probably lithograph copies of the pages from the book Buick: "The Golden Era", 1903-1915 Hardcover – January 1, 1971.I have a set of these myself, Thanks, Joe
  5. Hello, Bonded/ riveted brake lining on bands installed on spindle hub. I purchased a small oven to cure the adhesive on the lining to bands. The instructions with the adhesive stated a curing temp. between 350 to 450 degrees farenheit for an hour to make the glue impervious to water. Needless to say, it got a little smelly in the garage with a little haze in the air.... Thanks, Joe
  6. Hi Larry, The tops on these early cars were an option (they all came with the necessary mounting studs and retention knobs from the factory). As far as the brake lining, I use hollow shank cartridge brass rivets. The lining is counterbored for the rivet heads. I made a rivet set tool that curls over the hollow shank of the rivet when hammered down. Thanks, Joe
  7. Hello, The broken up brake lining was the molded strip type from McMaster-Carr. It had a high friction cofficent, but proved to be too brittle for a band application. I'm going to try the woven strip type; it has brass fibers in it to dissapate heat. I bought the 3/16" by 1" wide strip and milled it down to 3/4" wide to fit the bands. I'm also going to use a high temperature adhesive to bond the material to the bands. Just to play safe, I"ll rivet them again also. Thanks, Joe
  8. Hello, Well, Its time to do a brake job already (500 miles). The brake lining on the steel bands has disintegrated.. Joe
  9. Hello, Try Antique Auto Top Hardware Company. You can download a catalog at Antiqueautotophardware.com Thanks, Joe
  10. Hello, Responding to the question I had about the fanbelt I use on the model 14 engine- I use 3/8" diameter round leather belting from McMaster-Carr (p/n # 6170K16 @ $2.37 per foot). The steel connecting staple wires are part # 184834 at .46 cents each. The belt joining tool (really cool) is #1848K1 and is approximately $70.00. Buy extra staples and belting- you'll need it! Thanks, Joe
  11. Hello, I agree; the Auburn script projects out quite a bit with extremely tight edges- not a good candidate for epoxy (not to mention air bubble pockets in pouring the liquid epoxy). Thanks, Joe
  12. Hello, You might consider using an epoxy product such as steel- filled Devcon to replicate a female die from your original hubcap (if your original is in pristene condition). The top of the epoxy would be machined flat & dowel pinned to fit into a die frame. I used this method to reproduce the raised script lettering on some brass Corcoran head lamp chimney tops I made a while back. I used .025" thick brass for these. I also made a male epoxy die using the inside of the original brass chimney as the pattern. Make sure to use a good silicone release agent... Just my thoughts, Joe
  13. Hi Larry, I sent you a PM, Thanks, Joe
  14. Hello, Catalyst hardened urethane clear is a pretty benign product; I would not think it would bother a hard plastic like Bakelite. Like everything else though, try dabbing a small spot with a paint brush in a inconspicuous area. I've also used the dipping method for applying clearcoat on brass grease cups and Murphy fasteners....Thanks, Joe
  15. Hello, I had to get a court ordered title for my brass Buick after the state of Ohio would not grant me one. I bought the car with a state of Kansas title which wasn't signed off by a previous buyer (the car was flipped twice without title transfer before I came along). It took several forms from the local title office, a state highway patrol vehicle inspection, and a visit to the county courthouse for the judge to sign the court order. With that document in hand, it only took an hour to get my Ohio title and tempory plate(s). Phew:p!!! Thanks, Joe.