Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by imported_RAH

  1. Keiser, It appears from the shift lever and brake handle that the one without the front and fan is '21/'22. The one with the bent fan appears to be a '27. More accuracy with engine numbers. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  2. David, I'm sorry I did not note the switch on ebay but it sounds like a Briggs & Stratton switch. The #14 would also indicate that. The first switch DB used after the Eiseman Mag switch was Briggs (during the Delco ignition time). Does it have a 'progressive' on - off - on sequence? The Briggs numbers went 1 through 25. The Clum went from 26 to 50 then 76 to 99. The FORD used Clum from 50 to 75. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  3. Big Mark, Sorry to be so tardy with this response. Your horn IS correct for a Jan '16 car. It is a 2nd series Adams Bagnall. It is a vibrator type not an Aoogah type. It was used from Sept. '15 to Apr. '16. And, Bob, your horn is a Garford and is a motor driven. You will find the armature running crossways under that cover. It was used from Apr. '16 to Jun '16. initially. You will find these data in the DBC News Mar/Apr '87 and a follow up in Mar/Apr '88. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  4. David, The Briggs & Straton switch was used right after the Magneto during the period of the Delco Ignition system. When the switch to the North East distributor they switched to the Clum combination switch. Basically late '16 / '17.
  5. David, The glove box was discontinued in Jan '18 at 169913. The Combination ign sw was introduced in Nov '15 at 35909. The commercial dash was the same heigth as the others but had a 2" notch recess in the area of the steering connection. I do not think the screenside had glove box later. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  6. Big Mark, The two digit number of a Clum switch would be 25 to 50 and 76 to 99. The Briggs & Stratton had range from 1 to 26. By the way the Clum number series from 51 to 75 are for Ford. The Briggs switch had a single ended knob while the Clum had a double ended knob. There were, however Clum later replacements for the Briggs with the double ended knob. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  7. Alex, Try Dave Cantelon at www.justradios.com He has been quite helpful for me in tracking down obsolete diagrams. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  8. Guys, I think there is a confusion here about 'freewheeling' and 'vaccuum automatic clutch'. These are two different things that happen to be controlled by the same knob in the center of the dash. The one with the little button in the middle of the knob. Pulling out first notch disables one of these features. Pulling all the way out disables both features. The '33 and '34 had these features. Both were discontinued in '35. Freewheeling is an overriding clutch inside the tranny. By the way, the commercial tranny does NOT have freewheeling and the boss for the lever was not drilled. The vaccuum automatic clutch was a $9.50 accessory and not all cars were so fitted. As I understand it was relatively unreliable and depended on a properly operating engine with maximum vaccuum in the carb. and optimum idle RPMs. There was a enclosed pendulum that operated a valve controlling the vaccuum cylinder connected to the clutch lever. When coming up to an intersection that pendulum sensed the change in forward motion and caused the clutch to pull in. Revving up the engine to move forward decreased vaccuum and released the clutch. Suffice it to say I personally would not attempt to reinstall one that was removed. I have data sheet on both and could mail if desired. Leave a personal message with address.
  9. Vergil, Welcome. I have not tried this but years ago I had an English Ford that had vaccuum wipers which I found out continued to operate long after the engine was turned off. The secret was a quart can sized tank up under the fender tied into the system. One could fasten a similar tank up under the dash and tap into the vaccuum line. That should allow continuing up most hills without problem. Let us know if it works for you.
  10. Hi, Very interesting. Where did you find that 'vin' number?Perhaps that is the body number on the firewall? The reason I ask is roadsters were not in general production until around 14,500 car serial number. Early roadsters are more rare than tourings but I have no idea where people come up with "There are only x number in the world" statements. How does anyone know how many are in garages all over the world??? Several insurance companies cover antique autos. J.C. Taylor or Hagarty come to mind. The serial number on that car will be found on top of the frame cross member just ahead of the seat on the passenger side. It will be prefixed with the letters 'CAR' before the number. The engine number will be found on top of the starter/generator mounting web and will be approximately 50,000 higher than the car number. Check out the Dodge Brothers Club at www.dodgebrothersclub.org Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  11. Bob, I presume you are a Dodge Brothers Club member. Send me a personal email (address in DBC News) and I will discuss rebuild of your existing Model 'D' unit off line.
  12. Bob, On the model G (with fuse on rear) the slotted 'adjust' screw is recessed and so marked. The lock is opposite the center bearing plate. On the model GA ( with the fuse in a tub on front) the 'adjust' and lock are 5/16" hex screws adjacent to each other. Rotating clockwise increases output.If these do not make a significant difference it may be time to consider a rebuild. Good Luck. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  13. Bob, You did not mention the serial number but generally a '16 should still have the 4 wire N/E model 'D' unit. (up to 90,000). This unit has the cutout relay and vibrating regulator relays built into the unit. Remove the top cover and check the fuse. As a rule the generator function does not 'kick in' 'till around 10 mph and self regulates to max output around 35. As speeds increase past that it will decrease and even go back to nearly zero if travelling very fast. Adjustment on these early units are tricky and not recommended. The Model 'G' or later 'GA' have adjustment screws on the back. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  14. Hi, I would seriously recommend against such an endeavor. Remember this engine is NOT a pressurised system. The oil pump is simply filling those resoirvors in a plate in the pan for the rods to dip into. Any restriction in that line could cause a problem. Why not simply change the oil more often. Also, that 'pressure releif valve' is not. It is simply a check valve to keep the oil pressure gauge line from draining back into the pan when the engine is off. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  15. Larry, That Stromberg/Detroit Lubricator carb used on Dodge brothers and several other marques is a relatively simple dashpot design. Unfortunately it is frequently disabled by attempts to adjust or by disassembling to 'clean and restore'. There is not a simple answer to your question but a rather extensive article is available in the Dodge Brothers Club News (Jun/Jul '03 pp18). Back issues of the DBC News are available from the club store on CD for a measley $40.00 covering from '83 to '07. There is a wealth of information contained therein and it is searchable by topic. I seriously recommend this for any interested 'Dodge Brother'. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  16. Sorry guys, the '23 Dodge Brothers used a quite different system from the later one with the wire going down the center. On the '23 that bakelite unit with the brass collector ring needs to remain secure in place so it will not connect with the spring contact projecting from the steering shaft. The horn has power supplied to one terminal and the other terminal has a wire up under the dash along the outside of the column to that contact block. Pressing the horn button pushes a nail like pin down the center of the shaft which pushes the spring loaded pin out to make contact with that brass coller inside the bakelite block. This provides the ground to the horn. Sooo if that coller and bakelite is allowed to move around it may inadvertantly connect with the pin. Bear in mind the '22 and '23 contact block is different from the '24 and later. Check with one of the parts suppliers in the Dodge Brothers Club.Good Luck! Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  17. John & Steve, The one with the 'Oil Here' in the center would likely be for Dodge Brothers closed cars from '19 to '22. These were, however used on MANY other cars and were sold as accessories as well. After '22 when the horn button was moved to the center of the steering wheel the oil hole was omitted for obvious reasons of electrical connections. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  18. Bob, Is this the lock you are looking for? I will try to attach a pix of the one for my cabriolet deck lid. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  19. John, You mentioned the unit was 'restored' back in '92. Perhaps the rebuilder used all carbon brushes? It is necessary that the two main brushes have some copper content otherwise the carbon will slough off and cause electrical leakage paths between the commutator segments. Perhaps a new set of proper brushes and cleaning of the commutator will help. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  20. JohnVincent, I'm sory to hear you are dissatisfied with the DBC. You neglected to mention the vintage of, and the specific problem with the brakes that have been ongoing for all these years. Have you acquired a copy of the '27 Mechanics Instruction Manual? This is nearly required reading for any one with 4-cyl to understand and keep his car operating at optimum performance. Regarding a 'Standing Column' from the technical advisor, I'm not sure exactly what you think a bimonthly article should include, other than answering your specific brake problems. Over the years I have submitted articles on various subjects. Please understand the term 'Technical' does NOT include telling where you can find competent mechanics to work on the brakes for you because you cannot figure out how to adjust them yourself, or who to do body and fender work, or what kind of paint to use, or any of a dozen other questions I have attempted to answer personally. I am a charter member of the DBC since '83 and also belong to several other car clubs and believe we at DBC do have one of the most informative, best newsletters available. I do not recall the 'ebay' thing but it was certainly a one time thing. As has been mentioned back issues of DBC News are available on CD for newbies and it is searchable by topics. What other club has offered that? Rodger "Dodger" Hartley, technical advisor for the DBC
  21. Guys, The early tops,called 'Jiffy Tops' (before '19) had a flap fastened to the rear bow and a similar flap under the front bow for storage of side curtains. I will attempt to attach a drawing of the front flap. I hope it helps. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley All right, I give up Apparantly I cannot figure out how to attach a pix. Send me a personal note and I will email direct.
  22. carknack, It is my understanding that you may be describing the 9th edition 'Master Parts Book'. I believe you may have one of the originals and a reprinted 'souvenir copy' that was reprinted by Robert Long (the original ROMAR). You may find the original had a section referred to as 'Standard Parts'that was omitted from the copy. That section deals with nuts, bolts, etc. Keep 'em Dodgin' Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  23. Layden, Thank you. I was of the impression it used a 'starter/generator' combination unit.
  24. Anyone out there know what starter/generator should be on a '16 Mitchell? Or, better yet a source therefor. Thanks.
  25. Gerd, Interesting pix. Those lights are called 'Trippe Lights' and were generic accessories for cars in the 30s. The horns also appear to be from '33 Dodge or other cars in the 30s and are NOT factory appropriate for that '29 Sr. You might check out ebay for the lights. Good Luck. Rodger "Dodger" Hartley
  • Create New...