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Matt M- PA

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Everything posted by Matt M- PA

  1. If indeed this is the case...then a deduction would make sense.
  2. I come to this thread a bit late.. Seems to me that if the only way to tell that these new radials are actually radials (as pictured above) are the letters on the inside...it should be acceptable to AACA. I too am a purist, and am proud to have achieved Grand National Senior status with my '72 Plymouth. (In fact, my former Superbird was the first to get a Grand National 1st.) As a Chrysler car enthusiast, I realize that the AACA just can't be as knowledgeable about each make and model as those at a brand specific event. I know certain cars are well known the AACA...but not all. The times I went through the AACA judging, I understood that as long as an engine, color, option, etc was available on that car...it wouldn't be a problem for judging. Meaning, my yellow Plymouth could've been painted any 1972 Plymouth color, with a V8 (instead of it's 6)...and none of this woud have garnered a deduction. Plus...when I went to AACA Judging School, we were told about the "one knee rule". Also, my memory recalls that batteries, headlights, belts, tires, etc need to look correct for the era". All that being said, it seems to me that when some things are so lax...what is the problem with a tire (again, providing the only way to tell it's "incorrect" is to look on the inside of the tire) as long as it looks right from the outside?
  3. wagonsteve....I would but the one car is a 1996, so it's only able to go to Classic. The other, a 2000 will be eligible in 2015. They are outside the YOM plate requirements...which is why I wanted to use the white/purple classic plates. Unless something changes in 10 years or so with the YOM plates....I've been saving a few purple antique plates for the future. I do have a 1972 Plymouth with a YOM tag. Since all this started, I was given another tag that came up as "available" in the PA vanity/vintage tool on line. It came up as "available". I went to my local tag service today and did the transfer/title change. We'll see how it pans out. The person I spoke to at PENNDOT told me to use the on-line tool to see if a Classic plate is available. Apparently, if it's out of the system for so many years (I think 10) it can be used....just take the plate to the tag service.
  4. wagonsteve...made no sense to me, either. I called the state who verified that it was a "dead plate" and that it could not be used or "reactivated".
  5. Good info on this thread. I have two of the white Classic plates that were on former cars of mine. I wish to use one on a car now, and another in a couple years. I also had a third signed over to me from a friend, but for some reason it's listed with the state as a "dead plate" and cannot be used. I did try the vanity tag page on-line, and the plate given to me came up as "unavailable", while my two plates came up as "available'. Is there a way to know if a plate can be used or not? Since these plates have been with me so long, I really want to use them.
  6. Here's an update guys. I don't have pictures on this computer, but I went with the Behr Solid Color Cement Stain. I had it tinted a light grey, and sprinkled a slight amount of the flakes in the final coat. My garage is 832 sq. ft and I used exactly 4 gallons. At $23 each, it was very reasonable. The floor was a new slab, and it was ground down as it had some irregularities due to it being rained on and covered with plastic just after the pour. The floor was covered in plastic since it was ground, and we did a very thorough vacuuming. We applied one coat of Behr adhesion promoter, then two coats of the stain 8 hours apart. On the first coat, you could see the stain sinking into the cement..much like wood stain does into wood. Two coats were needed, and I even contemplated a third. I wanted to ensure it was bonding well to the cement not the previous coat, so I stopped at two. My truck parked on this for two weeks and did not lift the stain. The cons? Had I put down more flecks, it may have hidden more imperfections, but the fact that it is a flat finish helps. (A clear top coat is available.) The pros? Cheap. $23 a gallon. Seems durable. Have already mopped with Simple Green, dropped tools, etc and seems to stand up well. Even to hot tire pick up. Easy touch-up. If you get a wear area, you can just touch it up and you're done. No need to do the whole floor. In the end, it stands to reason that this should be tougher than a coating as it permeates the surface. I liked the look of the coatings, but it just wasn't in the budget. This floor has gotten compliments, which is nice. Before I did the floor, I took all the gallons of stain...mixed them into one big bucket...then put them back into the gallon cans to ensure a consistent color. I kept an extra gallon (that was mixed with the others) for later touch-up.
  7. I have some experience with the plastic floor tiles too. My attached garage has them made by SportCourt and while they look great...they're far from perfect. The most reasonable price I could find was about $2.43 a square foot for the tiles I got. They look great, and you need no real surface preparation as they sit on top. Cons? They make a clicky sound when you walk on them, which I suppose could be muted with a rubber pad underneath. They also dent if you use a floor jack. (I got a big piece of aluminum to put under my jack) When you install the tiles, you need to leave a gap around the edges as they will swell in the sun. (I'd bet Jay Leno got a smokin' deal on them for doing the video) Here's my tile floor.
  8. jaxops...my thinking exactly. I don't mind doing the work, or the expense really...if it gave me a great floor. But....to have it fail would really upset me. I have read so many stories of epoxy floors having tire pick-up, peeling off, flaking....that I was concerned. I even had some e-mails with a very helpful pro epoxy type floor installer. (I do realize it was many years ago...but our studio at the time had started as a gym and we wanted the floor to be a neutral gray to match the walls....as well as smooth enough to look good on videotape. We had a company come in and sand the entire floor, prep, epoxy...you name it. Cost a fortune. The first time we pulled our production van out it pulled the paint). My brother in law does all sorts of work in his garage from painting to welding, mechanical and he says this cement stain is very tough. Again, I'd be really annoyed if I spent a small fortune and then had a problem. Then you'd have to sand it all off....uh boy. Once I get the stain done...I'll have to post an update. I picked up a color chart today.
  9. Funny this comes up now as I have done TONS of research for my new detached garage floor. Here's what I have found. Epoxies. Technically, stronger than the concrete itself. Not UV stable and will yellow. Polys. Stronger than epoxy in that they are UV stable. More expensive than epoxies. When it comes to these kinds of "paints" it seems that the water based are not as strong as the solvent based versions. Either will allow you to put flecks in for a nice look, and if clear coated can shine like they are wet. However, almost as many that say it is holding up well also say it peeled where tires were parked or that it came off like sunburned skin. Prep is important too, and most of these products say to clean the floor with a muriatic acid solution to ensure good bonding. That being said...some professional installers say that it is the acid washing that causes the product to not adhere well to the cement. Apparently rinsing it all out is problematic. Oh yes...cost. Any of the "quality" products can cost a small fortune. For my 32x26 I was quoted from $800 to $1200 for the products to do it myself. There are products at Home Depot and Lowes...even some paint stores....but I have not read stellar reviews on these. So, what to do? My brother in law used a Behr cement stain on his older garage floor and all he did was wash with a Purple Power type cleaner and roll it on. Now, this stain sounds good to me. It penetrates the surface like a wood stain penetrates wood. (It is a much thinner product so if you have rougher cement...it will stay that way. Some of the thicker (expensive) epoxies have some ability to fill...and the flecks hide the defects.) Stain is available in solid colors (can be tinted at the store) or in transparent colors. A transparent stained cement surface takes on an interesting look. You can find pics on line...but I'd say it reminds me of a leather texture. This costs about $25 a gallon. I am going to do the stain in my garage. Oh yes...back to the prep. The professionals I spoke to said that the key is to sand the floor...then clean it will and apply the product. My floor was not as smooth as we wanted it to be so the contractor made a few passes with big wheeled sanding machine. We'll blow it out a few times and be ready to go. Hope this helps.
  10. Thanks guys...went yesterday. It just wouldn't be Fall without a journey to Hershey. The sad news is that many vendors said they were as much as 50% off for a "typical" Wednesday. Sign of the times I suppose. We did spend the day wandering...looking...chatting, etc...a most enjoyable day.
  11. Hey folks... I can;t remember if I have attended the swap meet on a Wednesday or not...but with the current forecast...and my work schedule...I may have to go on Wednesday. Are things fully running by then?
  12. While it's true we must go by the rules...I think any AACA member that attends a show...trying to a particular award...should be with their vehicle until it is judged. Yes, we all need to make "pit stops" and such....but at every show where my car was judged, I could see the team coming and made sure my trunk was open, windows up, etc. I also thought it imperative to be with the car while they were there should they have questions, etc. I understand what the rules are about opening hoods. However, I think it's crazy to expect judges to open the hood and trunk before judging. The owner surely knows the drill...and should ensure his vehicle is ready to be judged. In part of this thread is was asked if a car with 4 headlights is held to a higher standard than a car with 2. The simple answer is...the more parts...the more chances for deduction.A car with factory A/C like my '72 Scamp has many more parts under the hood than a car without...so there are more things that could be chipped, defective, incorrect.
  13. GREAT response Mr Hinson...excellent. Everyone makes mistakes...hopefully this one will sort itself out. I'd care less about the fine...which seems very low...but the 2 points would be my concern.
  14. I frankly see no gray area here. The signature is subject to a deduction. I do understand that Carroll Shelby is an icon. In the modern "real" Shelbys, there is a plaque on the dash with their logo, car info, and his signature. That belongs there. A signature in grease pencil, Sharpee or paint pen does not. (For the record, the new Shelby GT500 is not a Shelby built car and has no signature plaque..it's built 100% by Ford) While it's true that AACA rules allow for other club's badges...what we are dicussing is not a badge or vehicle nameplate. It's an autograph. Which brings me to a somewhat silly analogy. If someone other than Shelby were to sign a Shelby's glovebox door...would it not be considered graffitti?
  15. As far as conversion vans are concerned...it was tonque in cheek. These vehicles are modified...then sold through a dealer....very much like a Yenko, Grand Spaulding, etc. nearchocolatetown...thanks for refreshing my memory on the Yenkos. I'm not a Chevy expert by any stretch.
  16. I have also done business with ESPO...nice product, good service...GREAT price.
  17. novaman....if I understand how Yenkos and Nickey's were done....in many cases they were ordered from the dealer as COPO cars...then customized at the dealer. Much like the GRand Spaulding Dodge cars. I'm fine with these cars being judged in AACA as they were sold new to a customer after the mods.
  18. Stonefish...excellent point. I think Yenkos are "in". Back in 1995, my then Superbird got it's National 1st..I beleive the first one so to do...and it went as far as AGNM First before we parted company. For those that know about the winged cars...the Superbirds were wholly built by Chrysler. The sister car...the Daytona...was not. It was built as a Charger...then sent to Creative Industries for the conversion. Technically this too is a "customized" car but they are allowed in as well. I'd bet that when the time rolls around...the Dale Earnhardt cars will be admitted. After all, the AACA allows a car to be any color, any engine, etc as long as it is available that year...so by the time these cars are old enough to be involved...there will be enough interest in them to judged. It appears to me that "from the factory" needs to be "from the dealer". (Nobody shows their car with the hubcaps in the trunk, cosmolene and plastic seat covers.) Hmm...not what about conversion vans?
  19. Hello Jeremy...I only know of a few Valiants like the ones from Australia in the states. Our Valiants (as you probably know) are a Plymouth model, like my Scamp. I too really like the Aussie Valiant Charger...of course the E49s. One of my local Chrysler club members has a 1950's era ute from down under. Cheers!
  20. I bought a 2005 Excursion XLT new. (For 10 years I towed with a 1994 351 Bronco.) I bought a V10 for many reasons. First it was much quieter, and I liked the throttle response. It also was loads cheaper. If you do the math (and I did back then...when was diesel was cheaper) it would have taken 80,000 miles or more for the fuel economy to make up the difference in maintainence costs, purchase cost, etc. I do realize that diesels usually hold a better value...but I plan to keep mine as long as possible so that's not a concern to me. Finally, it took me 10 years to put 90,000 miles on the Bronco...and the Ex now shows 30,000. I have no problems on grades with mine, but it requires a bit of new mindset. These modular engines need to rev...unlike the older big blocks and diesels. It pulls fine...just let 'er rev. She'll upshift if she needs to. My V10 gets right about 9.5-10MPG towing an enclosed trailer w/car that is 7000 pounds total. Keeping the Ex to about 60 MPH makes the difference. Winding her up tighter brings the mileage down a good bit. Now, an Ex is substantially heavier than a SD...so SD mileage may be better. If I behave myself on a mixed tank 13MPG is not out of the question...not towing. A vehicle that big or heavy is never going to be a mileage champ. I know people with Grand Cherokees that get less mileage that my Ex. One thing many V10 guys do is swap to a 4:10 gear set. While mine is still stock a 3:73 (I think), those that have swapped them said it keeps the engine in the powerband and really wakes it up around town. While the original poster did not mention whether it was for an Excursion or SD truck...but a response mentions Excursions....I'd like to clarify some things. Firstly, Excursions of any model came with rear sway bars if the trailer towing package was selected. I ordered mine with this package and it does have the bar. The best investment for these trucks (and I'd say the SDs too) is a Roadmaster Active Suspension. You can look it up on line, but basically it's coilspring that mounts above your rear springs and is stretched when your leaf springs compress. They are very reasonable on price and easy to install. The truck takes tongue weight better....handles much better empty or laden...but the ride does not suffer. Lots of good Ford truck info at www.ford-truck.com.
  21. The Boss Mustang question about classes is a good one...but it would seem in the AACA's eyes...it could enter any class as they do not concern themselves with the "numbers". I'd agree that the marque specific shows get picky...and I am one that is a stickler for correctness. My point of the Barracuda scenario was more that once this car would make it through Junior, Senior, etc....those AACA badges could in some people's eyes make the car legitimate...when it's a "recreation".
  22. Thanks for the clarification ShopRat...I do remember about any factory color being acceptable, etc. I don't quite agree on their standing but understand why. I suppose the AACA simply cannot police all the different options, colors, etc on all the different makes...but I wonder the following..... Let's say I have a slant six 1969 Barracuda that I make into a Barracuda Formula S 383. As long as the colors, engine, etc is available in 1969..it's okay right? I could get my Senior...then decide to sell the car. The AACA Badge is a great selling feature and makes the car to potential buyers "a known quality". However, this also would seem to imply the car has some pedigree that possibly could cause folks to think it is "correct".
  23. I should first state that while I have been to an AACA Judging School..I have never judged AACA. (I am, and have been the Head Judge for my club's national meet for many years.) Okay...while this is going off topic about radial tires....the one instance given above about a dual master cylinder is in my opinion incorrect. Just because GM offered a retrofit kit does not make it factory correct. These cars are to be judged as they appeared when they left the factory. Lots of judges it seems are allowing a lot of "wiggle" room for safety upgrades...some I have heard quote radial tires and halogen headlights as "safety upgrades"....yet in my thinking...they are deviations from stock and should be subject to point deductions. If the AACA can be so picky in judging (which I think is a good thing) to ensure that cars area as accurate as possible...I think that allowing halogen lights and master cylinder retrofits are hypocritical. I do see good reason to allow a nice clean seat belt installation in cars not so equipped...but there needs to be a line held with modifications. I mean, air-bags are a great safety item...if someone installed them in a 1969 Chrysler...as a safety upgrade...would these be subject to deduction?
  24. I think the "spirit" of the AACA rules are not so much that an oil filter is 1" longer or shorter....but more that the item itself is not a Fram of some other completely incorrect aftermarket item. For example...a Fram oil or fuel filter...rather than an AC, Mopar or Motorcraft filter. It seems to me that a specific marque show may get into all the part numbers and such....but the AACA is more open in that regard. Likewise, modern "replacement" parts from a dealer are not correct either. Often, even when our cars were new...the factory installed different parts than the factory used. Mopar, for example...were the replacement parts dealers used for service, tune-up and other work....and were not the same as the factory. Modern "factory" replacement parts for a car built 40 years ago were superseded so many times that the parts have little resemblance the the originals. I know that when I restored my car, there was a heater valve that had been superseded to a part that was commonly available. This new part may have functioned...but it was drastically different in appearance....had I used this part I would have expected a deduction. So to close...I would say that an AC filter would be AACA OK...but a Fram filter would be cause for deduction.
  25. In my era of interest, late '60s early '70s Chryslers....there were only really two length filters and both are very easy to get. However, in many cases, the filter was on the engine when the engine was painted...along with the negative battery cable, PCV valve and grommet, and other items. Most owners use the reproduction red/white and blue "Mopar" filters on their show Mopars...but these are not assembly line correct either...but I have never heard of a deduction for that. (FWIW, on my '72 Scamp the filter is painted engine color)These filters seem to be accepted for judging. I know on my 2000 Viper, it had a oil filter that looked just like the ones you can buy at the dealer...except it had "factory installed" printed on it. Back on topic..if the AC filter has the right number, appearance, correct color, logos, etc... and only the length is different...I don;t think I'd make a deduction.
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