Jump to content

Matt M- PA

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Matt M- PA's Achievements

250+ Points

250+ Points (1/7)

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges



  1. If indeed this is the case...then a deduction would make sense.
  2. I come to this thread a bit late.. Seems to me that if the only way to tell that these new radials are actually radials (as pictured above) are the letters on the inside...it should be acceptable to AACA. I too am a purist, and am proud to have achieved Grand National Senior status with my '72 Plymouth. (In fact, my former Superbird was the first to get a Grand National 1st.) As a Chrysler car enthusiast, I realize that the AACA just can't be as knowledgeable about each make and model as those at a brand specific event. I know certain cars are well known the AACA...but not all. The times I went through the AACA judging, I understood that as long as an engine, color, option, etc was available on that car...it wouldn't be a problem for judging. Meaning, my yellow Plymouth could've been painted any 1972 Plymouth color, with a V8 (instead of it's 6)...and none of this woud have garnered a deduction. Plus...when I went to AACA Judging School, we were told about the "one knee rule". Also, my memory recalls that batteries, headlights, belts, tires, etc need to look correct for the era". All that being said, it seems to me that when some things are so lax...what is the problem with a tire (again, providing the only way to tell it's "incorrect" is to look on the inside of the tire) as long as it looks right from the outside?
  3. wagonsteve....I would but the one car is a 1996, so it's only able to go to Classic. The other, a 2000 will be eligible in 2015. They are outside the YOM plate requirements...which is why I wanted to use the white/purple classic plates. Unless something changes in 10 years or so with the YOM plates....I've been saving a few purple antique plates for the future. I do have a 1972 Plymouth with a YOM tag. Since all this started, I was given another tag that came up as "available" in the PA vanity/vintage tool on line. It came up as "available". I went to my local tag service today and did the transfer/title change. We'll see how it pans out. The person I spoke to at PENNDOT told me to use the on-line tool to see if a Classic plate is available. Apparently, if it's out of the system for so many years (I think 10) it can be used....just take the plate to the tag service.
  4. wagonsteve...made no sense to me, either. I called the state who verified that it was a "dead plate" and that it could not be used or "reactivated".
  5. Good info on this thread. I have two of the white Classic plates that were on former cars of mine. I wish to use one on a car now, and another in a couple years. I also had a third signed over to me from a friend, but for some reason it's listed with the state as a "dead plate" and cannot be used. I did try the vanity tag page on-line, and the plate given to me came up as "unavailable", while my two plates came up as "available'. Is there a way to know if a plate can be used or not? Since these plates have been with me so long, I really want to use them.
  6. Here's an update guys. I don't have pictures on this computer, but I went with the Behr Solid Color Cement Stain. I had it tinted a light grey, and sprinkled a slight amount of the flakes in the final coat. My garage is 832 sq. ft and I used exactly 4 gallons. At $23 each, it was very reasonable. The floor was a new slab, and it was ground down as it had some irregularities due to it being rained on and covered with plastic just after the pour. The floor was covered in plastic since it was ground, and we did a very thorough vacuuming. We applied one coat of Behr adhesion promoter, then two coats of the stain 8 hours apart. On the first coat, you could see the stain sinking into the cement..much like wood stain does into wood. Two coats were needed, and I even contemplated a third. I wanted to ensure it was bonding well to the cement not the previous coat, so I stopped at two. My truck parked on this for two weeks and did not lift the stain. The cons? Had I put down more flecks, it may have hidden more imperfections, but the fact that it is a flat finish helps. (A clear top coat is available.) The pros? Cheap. $23 a gallon. Seems durable. Have already mopped with Simple Green, dropped tools, etc and seems to stand up well. Even to hot tire pick up. Easy touch-up. If you get a wear area, you can just touch it up and you're done. No need to do the whole floor. In the end, it stands to reason that this should be tougher than a coating as it permeates the surface. I liked the look of the coatings, but it just wasn't in the budget. This floor has gotten compliments, which is nice. Before I did the floor, I took all the gallons of stain...mixed them into one big bucket...then put them back into the gallon cans to ensure a consistent color. I kept an extra gallon (that was mixed with the others) for later touch-up.
  7. I have some experience with the plastic floor tiles too. My attached garage has them made by SportCourt and while they look great...they're far from perfect. The most reasonable price I could find was about $2.43 a square foot for the tiles I got. They look great, and you need no real surface preparation as they sit on top. Cons? They make a clicky sound when you walk on them, which I suppose could be muted with a rubber pad underneath. They also dent if you use a floor jack. (I got a big piece of aluminum to put under my jack) When you install the tiles, you need to leave a gap around the edges as they will swell in the sun. (I'd bet Jay Leno got a smokin' deal on them for doing the video) Here's my tile floor.
  8. jaxops...my thinking exactly. I don't mind doing the work, or the expense really...if it gave me a great floor. But....to have it fail would really upset me. I have read so many stories of epoxy floors having tire pick-up, peeling off, flaking....that I was concerned. I even had some e-mails with a very helpful pro epoxy type floor installer. (I do realize it was many years ago...but our studio at the time had started as a gym and we wanted the floor to be a neutral gray to match the walls....as well as smooth enough to look good on videotape. We had a company come in and sand the entire floor, prep, epoxy...you name it. Cost a fortune. The first time we pulled our production van out it pulled the paint). My brother in law does all sorts of work in his garage from painting to welding, mechanical and he says this cement stain is very tough. Again, I'd be really annoyed if I spent a small fortune and then had a problem. Then you'd have to sand it all off....uh boy. Once I get the stain done...I'll have to post an update. I picked up a color chart today.
  9. Funny this comes up now as I have done TONS of research for my new detached garage floor. Here's what I have found. Epoxies. Technically, stronger than the concrete itself. Not UV stable and will yellow. Polys. Stronger than epoxy in that they are UV stable. More expensive than epoxies. When it comes to these kinds of "paints" it seems that the water based are not as strong as the solvent based versions. Either will allow you to put flecks in for a nice look, and if clear coated can shine like they are wet. However, almost as many that say it is holding up well also say it peeled where tires were parked or that it came off like sunburned skin. Prep is important too, and most of these products say to clean the floor with a muriatic acid solution to ensure good bonding. That being said...some professional installers say that it is the acid washing that causes the product to not adhere well to the cement. Apparently rinsing it all out is problematic. Oh yes...cost. Any of the "quality" products can cost a small fortune. For my 32x26 I was quoted from $800 to $1200 for the products to do it myself. There are products at Home Depot and Lowes...even some paint stores....but I have not read stellar reviews on these. So, what to do? My brother in law used a Behr cement stain on his older garage floor and all he did was wash with a Purple Power type cleaner and roll it on. Now, this stain sounds good to me. It penetrates the surface like a wood stain penetrates wood. (It is a much thinner product so if you have rougher cement...it will stay that way. Some of the thicker (expensive) epoxies have some ability to fill...and the flecks hide the defects.) Stain is available in solid colors (can be tinted at the store) or in transparent colors. A transparent stained cement surface takes on an interesting look. You can find pics on line...but I'd say it reminds me of a leather texture. This costs about $25 a gallon. I am going to do the stain in my garage. Oh yes...back to the prep. The professionals I spoke to said that the key is to sand the floor...then clean it will and apply the product. My floor was not as smooth as we wanted it to be so the contractor made a few passes with big wheeled sanding machine. We'll blow it out a few times and be ready to go. Hope this helps.
  10. Thanks guys...went yesterday. It just wouldn't be Fall without a journey to Hershey. The sad news is that many vendors said they were as much as 50% off for a "typical" Wednesday. Sign of the times I suppose. We did spend the day wandering...looking...chatting, etc...a most enjoyable day.
  11. Hey folks... I can;t remember if I have attended the swap meet on a Wednesday or not...but with the current forecast...and my work schedule...I may have to go on Wednesday. Are things fully running by then?
  12. While it's true we must go by the rules...I think any AACA member that attends a show...trying to a particular award...should be with their vehicle until it is judged. Yes, we all need to make "pit stops" and such....but at every show where my car was judged, I could see the team coming and made sure my trunk was open, windows up, etc. I also thought it imperative to be with the car while they were there should they have questions, etc. I understand what the rules are about opening hoods. However, I think it's crazy to expect judges to open the hood and trunk before judging. The owner surely knows the drill...and should ensure his vehicle is ready to be judged. In part of this thread is was asked if a car with 4 headlights is held to a higher standard than a car with 2. The simple answer is...the more parts...the more chances for deduction.A car with factory A/C like my '72 Scamp has many more parts under the hood than a car without...so there are more things that could be chipped, defective, incorrect.
  13. GREAT response Mr Hinson...excellent. Everyone makes mistakes...hopefully this one will sort itself out. I'd care less about the fine...which seems very low...but the 2 points would be my concern.
  14. I frankly see no gray area here. The signature is subject to a deduction. I do understand that Carroll Shelby is an icon. In the modern "real" Shelbys, there is a plaque on the dash with their logo, car info, and his signature. That belongs there. A signature in grease pencil, Sharpee or paint pen does not. (For the record, the new Shelby GT500 is not a Shelby built car and has no signature plaque..it's built 100% by Ford) While it's true that AACA rules allow for other club's badges...what we are dicussing is not a badge or vehicle nameplate. It's an autograph. Which brings me to a somewhat silly analogy. If someone other than Shelby were to sign a Shelby's glovebox door...would it not be considered graffitti?
  15. As far as conversion vans are concerned...it was tonque in cheek. These vehicles are modified...then sold through a dealer....very much like a Yenko, Grand Spaulding, etc. nearchocolatetown...thanks for refreshing my memory on the Yenkos. I'm not a Chevy expert by any stretch.
  • Create New...