mikewest

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Everything posted by mikewest

  1. Bill, Paul made a good point about the spring. You will need to keep it captured with some threaded rod, nuts and washers although Ive taken them apart and put back together without anything. They don't fly apart , just jump up a bit. As for the u-joints, don't rely on the way it comes apart solely as many drive shafts have been reinstalled incorrectly. (The last guy didn't know what he was doing) Read and understand phasing of universal joints . Its all over the net and easy to understand. Like I said most of the splines are marked with a line or a arrow where it should engage the matching spline sleeve on the joint at the transmission end. Good luck and if you need my spline to line up the clutch Ill send it to you. Mike
  2. Bill , Pull the transmission , pressure plate and clutch out. The throw-out bearing has two flats on it and it can be unthreaded from the pressure plate center. You will need to hold the other end with a large wrench. Reverse the procedure to install the new bearing. make sure all the spring fingers are laying flat after you have reinstalled the bearing. Not a big deal. You will need a plot shaft tool or I use a main shaft out of a transmission to center the clutch on the flywheel with the pilot bearing. You can borrow my main shaft for postage if you need it. Make sure you inspect that bearing to me smooth or replace it. They are cheap and available through NAPA . When you replace the bell housing , make sure the two dowel pins are in place for proper alignment . Make sure the adjustment ring is roughly in the right adjustment before tightening the pressure plate to the flywheel or its a bugger to adjust. Make sure when you reinstall the drive shaft the universal joints are in time. The yokes usually have a mark on them to get it correct, but if not make sure the joints all line up on each end so they don't bind. I just did the same job on a 32. Good luck ., Mike
  3. Chuck , Give Egge machine a call in Santa Fe Springs a call. They may do it or certainly can recommend someone.
  4. Paul, II have no experience using " cheap hardware washers on rod bolts" and never will. Im glad it works out for you. Your friend , Mike
  5. Paul are you serious about suggesting "Cheap zinc flat washers under connecting rods?" Would you install Franklin rods like that? I hope not. I think that idea would get you thrown out of most quality shops. There are better solutions. Just my opinion...
  6. There isn't much QUALITY pot metal around..... smile.
  7. Its not 1929 Franklin (Maybe the bucket is, but the rim and the lenses is wrong for 1929.
  8. Its a knockoff wheel retainer . Auburn had a special wrench that engaged the outside diameter and the pointed dogs to wind it on or off to remove or replace the wheel. Most owners carried a dead blow hammer to make sure it was set tight but not so tight to pull the center of the cap out of shape. Its 1930 I believe.
  9. Sally, Looking at the pictures and hearing what your uncle said about the back end rusted out makes sense. The platform and racks on it now are obviously homemade and this truck likely had steel manufactured body on it . Looking at the platform it has now notice the steel pans over the top of the rear tires. They may of been part of the original platform it had ,maybe with sides like a express truck. If you are open to offers , Ill make one . Mike
  10. I had one of these trunks and a friend wanted a "Low Boy" for a Cadillac roadster. With some careful cutting and tig welding he soon had one.
  11. Dick Mcnight cell # 315 383 5502 He is a great guy ...give him a call.
  12. The car is still for sale . Its been repainted and has new interior. Please PM me your contact info.(Email and phone ect) The car will be at Hershey for sale unless someone buys first. Thanks Mike
  13. Im not sure on the steering box but the Detroit 4 speed gearbox is interchangeable with the Stutz as far as I know. I sold a gearbox to a restorer needing it for Stutz in BC Canada. I have others if you need one. Mike West Livonia NY
  14. Bernie , What happened? Please PM me your phone # or the owners info. Thanks mike
  15. I restored a EARLY 32 Phaeton and it had snap ring wheels .I questioned it and was given a copy of a service bulletin or something that indicated a change in wheels early like March of 32 . The car is gone now and I don't have the paper , but someone that really wanted to now could find out ,. My car had the Kick Shackle another sure sign of a 32 model car. There was something about one of the motor mounts on the front whether it was a bolt on or not , plus whether the car had Depress Beam or Stable Lite lenses in the headlights.
  16. The car is a 1931 Auburn "8" Phaeton sedan model 898. It was Auburns name for a convertible sedan. It could also be a early 1932 model 8-100 . If it had a 2 speed Columbia rear axle it would of been a 8-100A . They are a good driving car.
  17. I would be interested in the airplane book if it isn't spoken for. Mike WEst
  18. These are newly cast aluminum taillight stands for 1929 Franklin models 135 and 137 only. They were copied from a original arm that was on a 1929 137 Sport touring car I bought from S. America. (It was right hand drive.... You need to drill for the wires and polish it up before paint. $135.00 Plus shipping It will fit in a USPS Bulk rate Priority Mail box. Mike West 585 738 1541
  19. Hi Art, I cant help with the cap. Mike
  20. Has a lot of similarities to the 1902 Crest. Neat piece. This is my dad when he was 14 in my grandfathers car.