TwinCamFan

What valvesprings are you going to run? Often we don't realize how critical the right springs are to a motor, too light and they float early, to heavy and they tear up rotatating parts and kill power...

Lol it's not that big of a process. There have been reports that 134 isn't as efficient as r12 but unless you are buying the 12 from Mexico you don't really have choice between the two right?. Question tho, you're having a shop do this right? The system should be vacuumed down, new oil and 134 added then checked for leaks. Not really the kind of buy-the-can-from-the-auto-parts-store-and do-it- yourself kind of thing in my opinion but that's maybe just me

Please review Hemi's tech tips on removing old accumulator. If it the hex strips out, a 45 minute job will grow exponentially...

So Jim, I went out to the garage and popped the hood on my 90 Y/G/B 16V to see 'how would I do this' and I think I would pull the radiator fan to gain access the sender. I *think* the sender has a 14mm hex area (might be 15mm, been a while) at the base to put a wrench on it. Use some Teflon tape on the new sender and if possible turn it in the same orientation as the old unit. The wires are old and brittle and don't really like being 180' out of phase of where they have been for 30 years What makes you think your sender is faulty BTW, no reading, low reading? Could be your cluster as well...

Pull the air hose off at the horn end, spray a 'generous amount' (like a lot) of 3 in 1 or similar oil and let it run down into the compressor motor for a minute or two. Leave the oil in there and reconnect the hose. Hit the horn button. Fixed. Yes, you want the oil going the other way into the megaphone assembly too, it also needs lube.

Crickey. the diameter Bro... Try to remember back to 8th grade math. Only one diameter works with your spindles.

No, the part with the groove in it. the 'pintle' It gets pinched/held by the spindle with the 15/18 bolt. There are early and late ball joints, small and large respectively. measure the diameter of each pintle. same or different?

Wait, are the pintles different diameters? That's an issue if so...

I am saying they WILL work and tho they look different than eachother, will act the same installed.. The critical thing is how far the joint pintle (the stud with the bolt groove/notch) projects thru the control arm and subsequently into the spindle(where they are captured and held by the 18mm on one end and 15mm on the other ball joint bolt). It's unfortunate Rock sent you different pieces but I believe they will still work.

You need a second car, an almost 30 year old TC as a DD? Hmmmm. I like the hex units, they are easier to align the bolt notch. Tho they look like they don't line up with eachother I think they insert into the control arm slightly different depths(because the stop shoulder is in a different spot) which allows them to project the same amount from the arm into the spindle and the pinch bolt. I can't help but wonder how you got the factory units out with the control arms in the car?. I've had to grind out the factory stay welds, use a press to get the old ones out and the new ones in...

^Yes, get these Roger!

Whats going on with your drivers side stub strut nut? Is it about to fall off? Or is the bushing a wider that stock replacement and that's all the farther it threads on?

As Hemi said those little struts do what little struts can do-very little. My bet is that the motor mount(s) are bad. There are 3 othe than the dogbone Hemi already spoke of. It's pretty hard to 'see' that they are bad un less you have them taken out, it's much easier to 'feel' that they are bad as you are describing. DO NOT use Chinese or India made replacements, they wont last a week, when I didn't have a choice on a friends car that needed one 'right away' for a trip I used a parts store(India) one. it sagged as soon as the weight on the motor was let down onto it. Friend replaced it when he got the car to his home state. Use Dealer or PolyBushings.com replacements. TurbosUnleashed.com as well as FWDPerformance.com carry the PloyBushings line of mounts

Been many times as well. Its a great show location, lotsa vendors and shade trees. It's worth the drive RTW, generally there is at least one TC Masi. I had my white one there last year and the red one the year before. The FWD class is dominated by the K car club these days, definitely some interesting specimons in that group Not sure what I'll drive this year, it's a 150+ mile round trip for me. I took this pic of a rare convert-a-bed mini there last year

Never hurts to have spare parts. I still hit a couple yards a month in search of something ellusive

Not sure what you are asking? Are you gonna find a TC Masi in the yard and source bake parts from it?

Steve Menegon has a couple 11 second J body LeBarons. Aren't they the same as TC's

I'll vouch for Pauly, I've met him at our national SDAC meets. I bought various pats from him over the years, not exactly give away prices but fair enough. This guy has built some amazing cars, 16V Masi motos in Mini vans and Shelby CSX's...

I'm looking forward to a new 'build' thread Moparite

8V, pshh...

Aftermarket IC with that pipe set up then?

I never reccomend the 'lift and slide' with these cars. IMO it's easier just to remove the IN/EX manifolds and turbo still bolted to the head. A cherry picker is nice for this because that's a heavy chunk to lift even with a friend. When I was young and foolish I did it solo but that's a back injury just waiting to happen these days. Frankly I have a hard time just 'doing the gasket' I love upgrades and the best time to do them is while it's already apart right? A ported exhaust manifold really wakes up the 2.2/2.5's. Even if you are going to leave it all stock, check your exhaust manifold gasket to make sure you don't see any soot tracking around the edges of the manifold. If it's leaking they get worse over time and now is the time to change it if there is a problem. Also the head should be checked for flatness with a good machinists strait edge. Make sure all the surfaces are nice and clean before reassembly. AJ

I'm sure Chris has you covered on any turbo you need. I think I may put this one on my Turbo Mini, it's getting a new motor anyway but I'd need to modify the EX manifold some so not sure if a modded IHI is a better plan or not.

Gotta get up earlier than that Jay Pretty sure its a true .63 S60 Haven't pulled the compressor cover off yet tho.

Yes Mensa, as hoped for you have the later build style with the common block and all the upgrades. 4 Peaks, all of the 16 V cars have a square tooth belt but depending on pre common block/post common block running change the crank pully will not interchange with eachother. AJ