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bradsan

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Everything posted by bradsan

  1. Just noticed this thread. I have a support if you want some measurements to fabricate one. I've got an complete spare 25 motor with the bracket but I'm trying to keep it complete! ( don't know why!) I think I might have an extra poorly repaired bracket if you want one as a pattern. Let me know. This is an interesting subject for those with the 'orphan' 25 Std's. I have a 'matching numbers' 2525 McLaughlin touring. The id plate matches the engine number. There is no sign of the mounting bolts or boss on the crankcase for the lower rad hose support. The 1925 McLaughlin Special ( as they called the Std ) parts book has the part number listed and a lovely photo of same. I purchased a 2521 McLaughlin basket case to have enough parts to put together the 2525 basket case. It too was a matching numbers car. It has the lower rad hose support and the mounting bolts on the crankcase. Since all of the engines were made at the same factory in the US, I'm guessing it was a running change. I'm hoping it was a later deletion because if it was needed I'm going to have a hard time adding it to the 2525! Brad
  2. Rick Is the box standard manual GM/Saginaw? If so, Chev's of the 40's and the Filling Station both have rebuild kits for these. Have a look at the Old Chevy manual website for a comparison. 1941 Chevrolet Shop Manual I recall my Grampa telling me how he saved a lot of money repairing his Buick with Chevrolet parts. Buick was the same part in a different box at a premium price! Or maybe that was just a good story! Brad
  3. Try Bob's Automobilia, he has repro's of both the housing and the levers(which are usually broken due to being siezed in the housing!) Bob's Automobilia Brad
  4. This is for the flexible line to each wheel on a 31 Auburn. They are a steel cable arrangement much like an ebrake but with a braided cloth covering. THe covering appears to go underneath a crimped outer cable end at each end. I believe that these lines were also used on Pontiacs and Hupmobiles of the 30's etc Does anyone know if this is possible? Cable and housing both look fine but the braided cloth covering has suffered the usual fate. I was thinking of trying a wiring vendor. Any other ideas? While I'm at it, some of our lines are rubber coated and others fabric. I presume fabric was original. Was it just fabric or fabric with rubber underneath? Also are they all supposed to have grease fittings on them? All but one of ours does and I'm not sure if that was added after or original. Looks like it could be either way. Thanks Brad
  5. I think it is too thin a section to have cast. It's not pot metal thank goodness It's definitely non-magnetic
  6. I have a tail light bezel/ring that is in need of repair. I've checked this site and the internet but I can't find anything on how to repair these. I did find an article on silver brazing in Skinned Knuckles but I'd hate to start experimenting on this one! Any ideas on how to do this or where I might find some information? Does anyone out there knoww of a reliable place to get repairs done? I'm not sure that it's something I'd trust to a plating shop. Here is a photo of what I'm talking about, you can see the middle bar is no longer attached. You might also be able to see a couple of major dents in the sides. Thanks Brad
  7. Leif I picked up this fellow's card at a swap meet. Can't vouch for him as I have made no purchase. He needs measurements of bore dia, ring width , groove depth and quantity. Says he has rings 1" to 7" for all engines to 1980. Paul Weaver's Garage 680 Sylvan Way Bremerton WA 98310-2844 360-373-7870 Phone/fax If he works out, let us know! Brad
  8. Hey Jeff Welcome to the "club" My cousin and I are working on a 2525A. Would love to swap some stories and share some info. I did try to send you an email to your Yahoo address and haven't received a response so I thought I'd try to post here as well in case email wasn't working. If you haven't found it already , check out the 1927Buicks Yahoo group Lot's of good stuff that also applies to "our" car: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/1927buicks/ I found info on vacuum tanks once but can't remember where. I did save a pdf file on repairing them which I can send if you want Brad
  9. Has anyone had any experience with these heaters? Heater basically has a cutout and valve on the exhaust pipe and flexible connections that route the exhaust gas through a cast iron manifold in the rear passenger compartment. In particular, where does one locate the flexible exhaust pipe ( spiral wound steel, like electrical conduit ) preferably in stainless. It's really neat, in my mind, but I do have some concerns about CO gases! The flexible pipe doesn't enter the passenger compartment so I'm not too concerned about the issue. Just have to make sure there are no pinholes in the cast iron. Any ideas?, Issues I should be concerned about? Brad
  10. Has anyone had any experience with these heaters? Mine is for a 25 Buick, so I have posted on the Buick site as well, but I'm sure they found application in other vehicles. Heater basically has a cutout and valve on the exhaust pipe and flexible connections that route the exhaust gas through a cast iron manifold in the rear passenger compartment. In particular, where does one locate the flexible exhaust pipe ( sprial wound steel, like electrical conduit ) preferably in stainless. It's really neat in my mind but I do have some concerns about CO gases! The flexible pipe doesn't enter the passenger compartment so I'm not too concerned about the issue. Just have to make sure there are no pinholes in the cast iron. Any ideas?, Issues I should be concerned about? Brad
  11. Have for sale the following. ( I did post this earlier but forgot some crucial info like price and location!! ) 1925 - engine short block ( oil pan , bottom end and pistons - not much else ) # 1384888 $200 - transmission #1307415 ( from a Master I think ) complete with pedals, levers and u-joint assembly $75 - radiator, Master, has hole through bottom tank, core looks good ( not tested ) but missing thermostat. shell is pretty bad. not positive on the year but can supply measurements $150 1926 - engine long block (everything but exhaust manifold nd accessories ) with clutch. # 1681662 ( a Master I think ) $300 - transmission # 1637346 ( Standard I think ) complete with pedals , levers and u-joint assembly $75 1928 - Transmission #2013977 complete with pedals,levers and u-joint assembly ( shift lever has been heavily customised! Bent ) $75 - left and right front shocks $50 / pr - Headlight buckets and cross bar complete ( some rust through ) $50 - Rear end complete with wheels brakes and torque tube $150 - Front end complete with brakes $75 All parts located in Vancouver BC Canada. I can email photos if you are interested in a particular item. Shipping extra on all parts
  12. rear end complete with wheels, brakes, torque tube and braces front axle Transmission headlight buckets w/ tie bar ( fair condition - some rust through at bottom ) two shocks not sure if front or rear but can email photo
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