buick5563
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Posts posted by buick5563
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I've been emailing the Cod today. It was made by Eaton Weatherhead. It's about 7 1/2" with a male swivel on one end and female swivel on the other. I know I bought a brand new one for my convertible, but other than Weatherhead, it doesn't say anything. CARS has one listed in their catalog and I believe it is pretty close to original. Of course, nobody can really see that anyway...
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I have never measured the spacers, but if you think of them like Legos, you have big ones and half size ones. Basically, the bolt length stays the same. That way, the fan is always the same distance to the radiator. Here is where it gets confusing. I believe there were different "styles" of pulleys, so sometimes you had a double groove pulley with a big spacer out front, and sometimes there are two pulleys with a half spacer between the pulleys and a half spacer in front. Does that make sense? A pulley always goes against the water pump to start...how's that?
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Show off!!!!
Yessir.
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I swear those are available new somewhere. I got one for my convertible. Trying to find the number.
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Nice!
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Brackets don't need to be removed.
The engine pan is green, same as the engine. Flywheel cover black. Trans pan black. Let me find a pic...
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The trans thrust pad (right behind the crossmember) has to be loosened, as well. Check that Tony
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Yes. Though sometimes they are very corroded and don't want to separate.
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That could be the female end, (male end is a spade connector) so don't pull it off. That plastic piece is an insulator.
I guess you don't technically need it if you use bullet connectors or some other modern connector.
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Here you go Aaron.
Terrill Machine
+1 (254) 893-2610
1000 County Road 454, De Leon, TX 76444
United States
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Pete and Shadetree should put this in the Bugle.
I imagine it spans a lot of years.
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I went to the Rochester, Minnesota National with only a screwdriver. That was it.
Why did I do it? Because I was tired of people always saying "I replaced that old engine with a 350 so I could drive across country, and buy parts anywhere".
I lost a rotor on that trip, got towed to NAPA, bought one, installed it and got back on the road in less than two hours (including waiting for a flatbed).
Yes, you should take some spare parts and some tools, but at a certain point you realize that whatever just broke you don't have...why couldn't my starter blow?
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I assumed vacuum advance.
Terrell Machine DeLeon, Texas rebuilds those.
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If it was a majority of BCA members, nobody would ever get elected.
Maybe 15%?
I joke...
Not really
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I bought 100' from Summit for less than I could find it anywhere else. Free shipping, too. Seriously, I think it was .50 a foot vs. $2 at Napa.
I will buy that rebuild kit, btw. Holler at me.
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I'm not familiar with big series intricacies, but I wonder if somebody added the power windows. They don't look centered in that panel.
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You will also need these measurements for your heater hose:
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That is a 56 pump (late 55). They supposedly work at a slightly higher pressure than the flat topped version, so I would just rebuild that one.
The fuel line should be on the front of the frame ending just below the fuel pump. A rubber line goes from that metal line to the fuel pump. I don't have a pic right now. I'll look for one to post.
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That interior is bad a$$, Scott.
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Inspect and disturb de minimis.
Bernie
This.
Need a photo of a 54 fuel pump and associated plumbing
in Buick - Post War
Posted
The funniest thing about this is that since I usually read the forum on my phone I thought John D wrote this.
I didn't read third person Smartin.