32mod55

Members
  • Content Count

    90
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 32mod55

  1. I have a few parts left over from when I was working on my 1932 Studebaker Six (sold) and put them on ebay. With all the junk spam listings on "feebay" (like seat covers, stereos, antennas etc that "fit" 1930s cars etc), does anybody still search for this stuff or should I put them up for sale here? Getting rid of stuff I won't be using but I hate to just toss things that someone else needs.
  2. Just curious, when these get rebuilt do they refill them with the glycerin/alcohol mix like the originals or do they use regular hydraulic fluid? Many of the old Ford Houdaille shocks survived because they used hydraulic fluid instead of the hygroscopic glycerin based fluid.
  3. I had one exactly like one I found in a box of '30s Studebaker parts, it was labeled Rockne but I'm not sure. Mine had a tail light on it that was the same size as a COBRO 4 3/8" dia '32 Stude model 55 tail light, IIRC it said ASCO on it. I ended up using the lens and sold the rest on ebay. This looks a lot like the one I had, primer and all.....
  4. The original Houdaille shocks from the '30s used a mixture of glycerin and alcohol. The shocks would usually seize up if the car sat for a few years because the mixture was hygroscopic and would absorb water and rust the internal components. Ford used hydraulic fluid so they lasted a lot longer and usually didn't seize up. If yours have the glycerin mixture, try to get it all out before you replace the fluid or they can still rust up inside.
  5. Interesting how stuff gets around! I had those same ones in MY junk box a few years ago.....
  6. The round 1932 tail light was only used on Six & Dictator for that one year, they didn't carry the oval theme on the lower models. It was produced by Corcoran Brown and is stamped COBRO on top of the housing. It was made of drawn or spun brass and plated. They had a tendency to crack and splay apart over the years and that's probably one of the reasons they are impossible to find: lenses are even tougher to find. I think Rockne used a similar tail light assembly, I saw one at a swap meet a few years ago that was tagged as Rockne. I am certain somebody has one of the COBRO lights sitting in a pile of old unidentified car parts in their shop somewhere.
  7. Gonna try once more, then they go to the scrappies. I have the original metal spring covers removed from my '32 model 55 sedan, might fit Dictator too? I have no use for them, there are covers for 2 rear and one front spring. The tops are cut in half when they were removed but could be easily reproduced from flat stock. Use them for patterns or replacement pieces for your restoration. Pay for the ride and they're yours. Might have a few other misc pieces for same car. PM me or email: enjoyus63@msn.com
  8. Somebody was reproducing these a while back, Lionel Stone was selling them and I have come across a few of them in my search for those unique hubcaps. Not sure who to contact these days, I think John Erb bought most of the Stone merchandise.
  9. I used to see big long screen door springs in the hardware stores, would something like that fit inside? Or maybe a bungee cord. There are spring manufacturers that will make any size custom spring for you, but i doubt it would be inexpensive!
  10. I have a bunch of spring covers, probably from 2 fronts and 1 rear spring from a 1932 model 55, might fit Dictator too. The flat top pieces are cut but the bottom pieces are fine. They could be used for patterns or used as-is with new top pieces made and some sheet metal bending for the missing covers. Can anybody use them??
  11. Somebody must need these..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1926-Studebaker-4-Door-Door-Panels-WOW-WOW-WOW-/161572131030?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item259e7310d6
  12. Nice car!! I bought some rubber repro parts from him many years ago for my Model 55 sedan, which is now in Norway.
  13. Got a few things laying around for a '32 sedan, pair of rear Houdaille (Hoo-Dye) shocks, one has good resistance, other one has little resistance but shafts are tight. Also, a decent complete robe rail for same. email me, 32mod55@peak.org for pics & prices. Might have some other stuff, ask...
  14. Sounds like you are making great progress!! Have you tried Egge for cam bearings and other hard to find parts?
  15. Rhode Island will be able to provide a wiring harness, there may be others but I know RI does excellent work and makes very authentic looking products. As already mentioned, check your ground connections. Make sure the socket contacts are clean. I have seen some folks add relays near the headlights to eliminate voltage drop through the long wiring runs. It would be difficult to describe how to do that on a forum reply but a good auto restoration shop can help, or some internet searching.
  16. I have an LS-2 Stromberg carb, used on '24 Special Six and others. PM me if you can use one....
  17. Cleaning up some stuff hiding in boxes, I came across the following parts from a 1932 model 55 Stude 4 dr sedan: Bunch of metal spring covers from 2 rear and one front spring, flat top covers are cut and some were missing but all good for patterns or replacing the bottom "U" shaped covers. Pair of rear "Hoo-dye" (Houdaille) shocks, not frozen, one seems to work, other one moves but no resistance. Complete robe rail set, no cracks, splines are good and not frozen together, just the usual pitting and rust on the bar. I have an extra outside door handle. Also have an original wood lower floorboard that could be used as a pattern, I can cut it to make it easier to ship if someone could use it, otherwise it's firewood. Make me a reasonable offer, I don't have a use for this stuff and hate to see it go on the scrap pile. PM me or email <elefon@peak.org> I am in Oregon. Revised, added: Stromberg UR-2 carb, complete with a new brass venturi, an NOS dome light assembly less lens, but I have a couple of lenses the will work and a Stromberg LS-2 for mid-20's Studebaker.
  18. Welcome! Nice looking Hawk! I have a friend who is trying to sell his '61 here in the PNW, it is a twin to yours except it has an automatic trans. I have a '63 R2 GT Hawk, my frequent driver. You might also be interested in the SDC Forum at: http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum.php
  19. I'm not sure about 1928, but most of the early '30s Studebaker radiator emblems were held on with a metal cup soldered onto the back of the emblem. They used regular lead based solder and probably a BIG soldering iron. I think silver soldering would be too hot, it would damage the closionne enameling on the badge.
  20. Hi Scott- did you get the head & intake gaskets and valves OK? My phone quit so I lost all my caller IDs and don't have your number. I have a pair of '33 Houdaille shocks from a model 56 that I believe are rebuildable and one front (I don't remember which side). The trouble with these shocks is they used a mixture of glycerin and alcohol which is hygroscopic and will eventually rust if the car sits for a long time. I also have a pair of possibly rebuildable '32 shocks from a model 55. If interested, let me know and I'll send some pics.
  21. This is for 1932 model 55, the lens shown is not correct, they are very hard to find and unique to this year and model.
  22. The '32 model 55 tail light is stamped COBRO (Corcoran Brown) and is unique to the model 55. I just sold one on ebay and I sold a really badly cracked one in a lot of parts to another collector. They are hard to find. They're chrome and measure about 4 1/2" diameter. I have some pictures if someone is still trying to ID one. PM me 32mod55@peak.org if you need to see some pics. Sorry, I don't have any more.
  23. Looks like maybe parts car if you could get it for the right price.... http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/4304042851.html
  24. Did you disconnect all the cables before you adjusted the brakes? How are the brake springs? Are the shoes new and arced correctly to the diameter of the drum? I found the best way to adjust the brakes on my '32 Six was to center and adjust all four brakes with the cables disconnected, then reconnect the cables adjusted exactly to the relaxed shoes. Then I would pull the emergency brake on about two clicks ( '32 Six e brake actuates all four brakes, not sure if yours works the same) and adjust the brakes to a hard drag. As I recall, that worked very well for me.