Glenn Manes

Morgan, I have been successful in taking measurements of an old spring, using a digital caliper, and then matching up from the online catalog at http://www.centuryspring.com Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO

There is a Model A store here in town. I will take my base by there and see how the bowl fits. Thanks for the suggestion. Glenn

That was exactly what I thought If I don't find one. There is no pressure to speak of. Thanks, Glenn

All, I have recently purchased a 1913 Buick Model 25 that I am going to get back on the road. On the dash board there is an oil site gauge and I am looking specifically for the glass bulb and attaching screw and top for one. I have the base Any help is appreciated, I have attached a photo of what it looks like. Thanks, Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO

Thanks Larry, I look forward to meeting you too. Glenn

Thanks Rod. Perfect. Glenn

You are right K 45, my 18 is a series E. Bad habit. Thanks Glenn

I am working on a 1920 Buick e47 for a friend, trying to get it running for this Summers National Buick meet here in Colorado. Does anyone have an Electrical drawing that I can work from to replace all the old dried up wires. Thanks, Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO USA

Nick, A word of caution regarding a stuck engine. On my E 45, the water pump was rusted solid, preventing the engine from turning over. I would recommend you verify , or remove the water pump shaft, before you try and force the engine to move. If it is the pump that is locked up, you could end up damaging the timing gear forcing the engine to move. Glenn Manes Wheatridge CO USA

VMac822, What might be perceived as bouncing tires from inside while driving, especially if it is from the frond end, may actually be a violent shimmy due to either mis-alignment , or worn tie rod ball joints. You may want to check for any play either back and forth, up and down and in and out, while front tires are off the ground on a jack. Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO.

Leif is correct, I have attached a drawing of the tank if that helps

Nice work. It is always nice to see something like this brought back from where it was. When you think about it, this vehicle most likely will remain for the rest of its existence is the condition you have brought it to. Barring any catastrophe, it will not end up in a shed like you found it again. Happy motoring, Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO

Boaterhat, I am not sure what it is, but the photos indicate that the wiring insulation appears to be brittle and if falling apart extensively, exposing bare wires. You may want to make replacement a priority. It would be a shame to end up with an electrical fire, if one of thise exposed leads finds it way to ground. Good luck with your project. Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO

26-25 Buick, I am probably going raise a few eyebrows with this reply, but I have faced the same dilema, whether to re-core or not. I have been fairley successful using 2 methods. First I use a off the shelf radiator stop leak and it seems to do well. If you can locate the actual leak, I have also had luck cleaning around it with a soft wire brush, and then coating it with a good epoxy applied with a small paint brush. Good Luck, Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO

From past discussions, the way I understand it is that they basically had a pile of engines and a pile of chassis, and one was granbed from each source and put on the line with no effort to match serial numbers. Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO USA

Thanks , will do

All, I have the opportunity to make on offer on a 1920's chevy touring car. I would like to know for sure what it is before I make an offer. The chassis has a 110 inch Wheel base, and a tag on the interior fire wall says Baby Grand with a serial number 137949. Research tells me I think, that makes it 1922 model FB manufactured in Flint MI. However it appears that the engine may be a later model. It has an enclosed fly wheel and clutch, and the fan pully is a V-belt, which makes me think it has to be mid to late 20's. Due to excessive crud, I have been unable to find any casting numbers, or serial numbers to help identify the engine. Can someone in this forum tell me where these numbrrs can be found? Any other method to identify the motor would be helpful. I have restored A couple of Buicks, and a few other makes but this would be my first Chevrolet. Thanks, Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge Co

All, I am in search of 3 engine pan latches for my 1918 E45 Touring car. I have 3 but 6 are required Part number is 30545 stamped in the cast part. These are the latches that hold the "mud pan" under the engine compartment. Photo attached. Thanks, Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO USA BCA 40198

Can you post a photo of the damage? Repair suggestions could be then suggested. Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge Co

If this engine has the generator run off the cam gear, it is possible that either the generator, or more likely the water pump is locked up. Try removine the generator/ water pump assembly to eliminate that possibility. Good luck, Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge Co

Roadmaster, Here is what I would try. Since you have multiple dashes, I would take the worst one and attempt to re-finish it with a new wood grain pattern. There are quite a few videos on YouTube that show several different methods, using different tools and proceedures. If you find you can paint a replacement that you are happy with then install it, if not then use the best of your stock. Good luck, Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge CO

I broke the cover on my 1918. I was successful in brazing it back together. Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge Colorado, USA

I broke the cover on my 1918. I was successful in brazing it back together. Glenn Manes Wheat Ridge Colorado, USA

Verify you have moved the manual spark advance to the most retarded position

Verify "your toe in" alignment is correct.