pitman

Looking for an Oldsmobile 371 engine to put in a 1957 Olds 98.Engine can be from years 1957-1960. Needs to be in operational condition--a long block would work--I have the rest of the required parts. Anyone with this item please offer a price-- location-- and any other important info. Thanks for looking, Pitman

Looking for the left cylinder head for my 1957 Olds 98 ---4 door sedan- w/4 bbl carb. NO JUNK- I already have one of them.

My head bolts are 7/16-14 Short ones are 2 1/4" long below head Long ones are 4 3/8" long below head All I can locate are 2" and 4" respectfully. Would these work to replace my old ones-- or would the difference in length make a major problem?

Thanks Ted: I have discovered the pedals are in fact different. I ended up purchasing a used pedal for power brakes and re-did the firewall to match. Thanks for the info---the manual pedal is the wrong geometry for the power--and it will NOT work. A typical project that blossomed into a major project--much more than originally thought. Again thanks--I think I have my issue now under control. Pitman

I am converting from MANUAL brakes to POWER. Do I need to change the brake pedal and mount?? The pin size is different for manual(it is a larger pin) for the manual hookup than with a power booster--and the pins are in different locations. I tried replacing the current pin on mine with a smaller pin and it does not work. However the pedal I located on E-Bay looks to be the same--but the pin is smaller (the correct size for the booster connection) and lower on the arm than on mine. What I really need to know is there a difference and do I need to change out my pedal and mount in order to have power brakes???

Thank you to all---I really appreciate the replies. Will look into the info. Pitman

I am looking for the power brake pedal for a 1964 LeSabre. The distance between the mounting bolt and the booster connect peg is about 2 1/2". The mounting peg for the booster is 3/8". My issue is vehicle was manual brake and the master cylinder mounted directly to the firewall and requires a 9/16" peg---WHICH MINE HAS--AND OBVIOUSLY IT WILL NOT CONNECT TO A 3/8" EYE ON THE BOOSTER. Any one with the pedal I require--please reply and leave a contact so measurements and price can be exchanged. Thanks, Pitman

I am converting my 1964 Buick LeSabre to power brakes from the original manual ones. All the power boosters require a 3/8" peg on the brake pedal to mount the rod from the booster. My issue is---my peg is about 9/16" and will no way go into the eye of the booster rod. I am looking for a pedal with the 3/8" peg to replace mine so I can install the booster. Center of mounting bolt to booster attachment is about 2 1/2" or so without close measurement. Does any one have a pedal that may work for my application ?? and if so an E-Mail or text # so that we can compare required measurements.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE REPLIES. You have answered my question excellently and I have purchased the necessary fittings to install the line. I REALLY APPRECIATE THE WONDERFUL PHOTO`S TOO. I thought maybe the port with the square head plug might be a vacuum source--the photo`s confirmed that and that is now MY SOURCE. Again---- thank you. Pitman

I am switching to power brakes (drum brakes-single reservoir master cylinder) on my1964 lesabre-where do I pick up vacuum for the brake booster with a 300 engine? I only see 1 unused port with maybe a 1/4" plug--but do not know if that is water or vacuum without testing. 1 port feeds the transmission modulator--but don't know if it could be tapped at the manifold to feed it and the brake booster without starving one or the other. Any help will be much appreciated.

Thank-you VERY MUCH: THAT INFO MAKES ME FEEL MUCH BETTER: I will adjust as you suggest and once HOT will really adjust them to the correct setting. Pitman

Thank-you---I placed it under CHEVROLET to see what happens. Pitman

194--- in-line 6 engine. I need to set up the rack. I know the proper lash for both the intake and exhaust WHEN NOT ------But I wish to set them COLD. I have read a couple suggestions. (1) add .002 to both. (2) add .005 to both. My rockers need a starting point in order to start the engine--- they are totally OFF and I would appreciate any advice. I would like to know from someone I can trust as to what settings would work best---and not do damage to my engine. THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS IN ADVANCE. Pitman

194--- in-line 6 engine. I need to set up the rack. I know the proper lash for both the intake and exhaust WHEN NOT ------But I wish to set them COLD. I have read a couple suggestions. (1) add .002 to both. (2) add .005 to both. I would like to know from someone I can trust as to what settings would work best---and not do damage to my engine. THANKS FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS IN ADVANCE. Pitman

Is this still for sale? Is it a BUZZER or AHOOGA TYPE?.DOES IT WORK? LISTED AS FOR PARTS?? THIS IS THE AD I WAS REFERRING TO. Pitman

Thank-you That helps answer my questions. Pitman

Has anyone installed the Spal 30130012 rubber flaps on their fan shroud? I am curious if they are effective---- and a little more info on custom installation. How much opening is advised behind the flap? how many rivets on each flap ? I only have space at the bottom of the shroud--will they still work not having circulation at the top as well? Thanks---hope someone has used flaps on their shroud and can answer me. Pitman

I replaced the stock 330 engine in my 1964 Olds. Cutlass with a 1975 Oldsmobile 455 engine from a Delta 88-Royale. I installed a new water pump but used all the pulleys from my 330 engine onto the 455. I installed a 26" double pass aluminum radiator purchased from SPEEDWAY. In highway I am running about 200 degrees--in city it tries to climb as high as 230--UNACCEPTABLE. I WAS WONDERING IF MAYBE I NEED A high volume PUMP INSTEAD OF A STOCK WATER PUMP??? We kind of figure the issue seems to be water flow!!! Discharge temp is upward to the high limits stated---but the bottom hose registers about 190 degrees. I can accept the fact my water temp gauge may be inaccurate--but not by as much as indicated. I DO NOT have a fan shroud--haven't figured out how to build one for the engine fan and my modified radiator installation---BUT not sure the issue is the air flow any way. Anyone ever encounter an issue like this???I really need some suggestions before I just start changing things. The engine runs excellent--and does not spit out coolant from the overflow as expected with the indicated TEMPS.---SO it really puzzles me as to why the TEMP IS SO HIGH---ALSO THE TRANSMISSION COOLER IS SEPERATE FROM THE RADIATOR SO THAT IS NOT THE ISSUE. Any help will be VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. Thanks, Pitman

Thank-you---look like I will have my work cut out for me!!! Pitman

Thank you for the reply: I have been unsuccessful in my search for a 330 engine--SO I found a DONOR car with a 455 engine and th400 tranny--so that will, in the long run, be my SWAP. Hoped to stay original--BUT LIFE GOES ON--will keep what I remove for the next GUY if he wants it after I die. Again thanks for the info. PITMAN

I wish to replace the 330 engine in my 1964 F-85 Cutlass.I Am looking for a running or remanufactured 1964 330 engine--- BUT ALSO MIGHT CONSIDER REPLACING WITH A LATER MODEL OLDS 350. Does anyone know if a later model 350 will install without difficulties? I really would prefer to keep it ORIGINAL--therefore a 330 would be desired. Any leads to an engine would be appreciated as well as the info asked about in regards to the 350 swap. Thanks, Pitman

thank-you for the info Pitman

I have an electrolock for, I believe, a 1930 Chevy since it has 3 terminals. MY QUESTION: will this work on MY 1929 CHEVROLET?? and if so--HOW WOULD IT BE WIRED?

Thank-you---will give both a try. Pitman

WANT TO BUY: Replacement horn (used and working) for my 1972 Roadrunner. The current one 'DIED"---And I DO NOT like the price of a NEW REPLACEMENT. Therefore I am looking to purchase a working one for a lesser cost. Thanks for any help in advance. Pitman