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I have two sets of NOS std main bearings for Olds 400 425 455 and 350 Diesel engines on ebay. The link to one of the auctions follows and the other can be accessed by clicking on my other items for sale. Oldsmobile 400 425 455 and 350 Diesel Main Bearings Std NOS - eBay (item 330625827123 end time Oct-19-11 14:16:34 PDT)

What a neat car and you definitely need to keep Tracy.

More pictures

Price dropped to $1000.

Ebay auction AFB 3705 Cross Ram Carburetors - Restored - eBay (item 330599567141 end time Aug-16-11 18:17:40 PDT) A very nice pair of 413/426 cross ram Mopar dual quad carburetors, restored. The steel components were replated in cadmium as they should be, not zinc. Gated choke plates. Stagger jetted. My reserve on the auction is $1300.

I've got my air cleaner thanks AACA.

WTB a large '61/'62 large dual snorkel Pontiac Tripower air cleaner. Need not be perfect but must be where I can straighten the ends of the snorkles if bent.

540306 heads rebuilt several years ago but never installed on an engine. Now have screw in studs and poly locks, 1.65 rockers. One head was cast on A171 and the other K170. $2750+shipping although I would prefer that these be picked up.

They do not. '59 and '60 had one intake to head bolt pattern, then '61-'64 another, and then '65 and up still another. "59-'65 the carbs were basically the same but with differences in the linkage. '57 and '58 has small end carbs. '66 had a large bore center carb. '66 setups are the most valuable, then '65, then '61-'64m and then it falls off from there. But if correct and redone as you state $750 isn't a bad price no matter what you have. Just trying to help.

Pictures of the Hurst gold GTOs from back in the day show the consoles to be chrome. Since the consoles are pot metal and not aluminum they would have had to have been plated gold and not anodized, unless pot metal can also be anodized. I do not consider myself an expert but I own a '65 GTO and have studied them quite a bit during the restoration of mine, and hence looked at I don't know how many pictures of them, but a lot, and have never seen one with a gold console. I have also never seen one with a gold console at any of the POCI or GTOAA meets I have attended.

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These carbs have been sold. Thank you AACA and BCA.

I can help with the Carters as I have seven volumes of the factory spec sheets on Carter carburetors. No charge for telling you what you have in terms of Carters and I may be interested in some of them. Send me an email if you are interested in seeing what Carters you have. Someone else will have to help with the other makes.

OK lets try it this way. $600 and I will pay shipping for both carburetors - or $400 for the real front carb alone and I will pay shipping. $400 for the front carburetor restored results in the buyer paying the equivalent of $75 for the carburetor as I get $325 to restore AFBs as these are restored. I ran both carburetors again Saturday, just to be sure they ran OK, because the ebay auction I had them on looked as if it may reach my reserve. The auction stalled but the carbs ran fine. The carburetors as calibrated to factory spec. as I have copies of the original Carter factory documentation for these carburetors. If anyone is interested send me a PM or call me at the number in the first post. The prices quoted above are firm if I can't those amounts I will just keep them and start hauling them to the Pontiac swapmeets I attend. John

btt

1964-1965 Buick 3645s oem and 3646s/3925s clone restored carburetors. The front or 3645s is original equipment with the fixed idle mixture and no idle mixture screws. The rear carburetor is a single four barrel AFB Buick application carburetor cloned into a 3646s/3925s AFB. Both carburetors have been restored: the bodies, tops and choke body were cleaned, bead blasted, and sealed; all hardware including the springs were cadmium plated and the springs were immediately baked to prevent hydrogen embrittlement; the carburetors were then reassembled with kits and flow tested on a Pontiac 389 engine on a test stand. I can fabricate the linkage and fuel lines necessary to mount and run these carburetors but the buyer would have to send me their intake manifold because I do not have the dimensions of those components. My name is John Reeder and my number is 409-767-0369 please call me with any questions. $725 + $20 shipping for the carburetors only.

Texas is friendly but it can get pretty hot down here. October through April are actually our nicest months in SE Texas (Houston and surrounding). Austin and surrounding is probably the nicest part of the state overall. No state income tax no inspections on old cars under one or two registration options. But with the above said were I to move I would look seriously at the Nashville Tennessee area. Weather isn't bad and Nashville is within a day's drive of all manner of car events in the South and Midwest.

That is my kind of car. That would be a really neat car and how many did they make like that in '65? Unfortunately it would cost way more to do than it would ever be worth. Having the pot metal alone restored would cost a fortune.

Excellent material D Yaros. The only thing I would ad is that the best way to check floats IMHO is to fill a clear glass about 3/4 full with water and stick it in the microwave for 40 seconds, then submerse each float in the hot water and look for bubbles. If a float has been compromised you will see bubbles immediately and if there are no bubbles the float is good. You finally found where the other check ball went which is good. The one under the nozzle keeps air from being pulled into the accelerator pump bowl on the accelerator pump up stroke when the pump bowl is being filled, while the one under the pump seals the bottom of the well on the pump down stroke and this forces all of the fuel through the circuit and into the throttle bore. Daytona Parts is where I buy my kits also and they produce very good kits in my opinion. The ones from NAPA are good also.

The parts washer should be fine. I would use one except that I do not have one.

It is a Rochester 4gc and a 4gc is the correct carb for a '62 Starfire. It may not be the correct 4gc for your car but probably is. Get a rebuild kit from NAPA or any other reputable source and there will be a schematic of the carb with the kit. Observe the schematic and make notes and drawings as you dismantle the carb, and reassemble it in reverse order after thoroughly cleaning the body, top, and all components after taking it apart. Before removing the idle mixture screws screw each one all the way in and count the revolutions before the screw bottoms out. Then after the carb is rebuilt when replacing the idle mixture screws just screw them all the way in and back each one out to it's original setting. There are two sizes of check balls on each end of the accelerator pump circuit, one small and one large. Be sure to not get them reversed as the small one can get wedged into the hole that is under the larger one and the only way to get it out is to fabricate a tube which will allow pressure from a grease gun to force it out. The check ball thing should be covered in the rebuild instructions with the kit. Other than the check ball thing 4gcs are fairly simple carbs and rebuilding one is straightforward. The main thing about rebuilding the old carbs is to thoroughly clean them out; don't just switch out the gaskets. I like to soak the body, top, and all components of carbs I rebuild in the $20 a gallon carb cleaner from NAPA, O'Reillys, or another reputable parts store, then clean everything with hot soapy water, and following that blow everything out with a high pressure air hose. If the carb was really filthy I will scrape/brush everything off/out in a pan of mineral spirits before soaking in the carb cleaner. To clean the circuits out use a brake fluid bulb and squirt the mineral spirits and carb cleaner repeatedly through all of the passages within the carb. Sometimes I will also boil them out in a solution of 50/50 Simple Green and water in a metal pan over a propane burner. The point is "get everything clean'. Other people will chime in here with pointers.

Someone else may respond and have in their possession some sort of written confirmation which I do not have, but I have been into Pontiacs for some time and have heard more than once that dealers would indeed install left over '66 tripower setups on '67 Pontiacs if the buyer chose to have it done.

Restore it. But if you must street rod it at least put a Pontiac v8 in it and not a small block Chevy. You can get a 326 or 350 Pontiac cheap as no one wants them and NOS internal engine components for them are almost free on ebay as no one wants them either.

Well my wife and I bought brand new a '64 1/2 Mustang, '67 Dodge Coronet, '69 Pontiac Catalina, '73 Pontiac Catalina, '73 Ford F150 (or was it 100?), and then of course more since then but less frequently as we aged and got a smidgen wiser. Of the batch I listed only the '73 Catalina was what I would call a lemon; all of the others were great cars and were traded only because we were young and the husband always had ants in his pants for a new car. I love those old cars and the age they represent. The new cars are without doubt better cars but have no character at all and look like either jelly beans or half smashed shoe boxes. NO modern car has an interior that can even approach the style of the one in my '63 Catalina with the Ventura interior. Just my opinion.

Frankly from what you describe I would advise passing on the car unless you need it for parts or are willing to take the time to get your money back parting it out, which is what it will take to maximize your profit. As Paul Dobbin indicated for someone to restore a car like that would cost twice as much, or more, than what it will be worth when finished. A very nice copy of that car would bring $8500-$14000, a Starfire more than that. As far as being easy to sell you just never know. About five years ago I bought a '61 Olds Dynamic 88 station wagon with three on the tree for $600 I think it was. I bought it to turn and make some money on to put into my Pontiacs. It was a complete car and was in better shape than you describe the '62 to be, but needed to be restored. I got it running but could not find a replacement transmission. It took two years to sell the car and I ended up losing money on it in order to get it out of my shop. Being a standard shift Olds I thought someone would want it but I almost couldn't give it away. It sounds like that was a really pretty car when new. It would be good if someone brought it back. Good luck.