61-63

In case you are not a member of this club it would be a good place to find anything for a '66/'67 Fairlane http://www.fairlaneclubofamerica.com/

This was on the Fairlane club forums dk if it is still available YARMOUTH, IA I have a 67 GT convertible for sale. it's dark blue with two tone blue interior, 289- auto, many new and rechromed parts. asking 12,000 or best offer. call if interested 319-572-1007 it's in Iowa

Looks like a nice car. A person could buy a '62 beater of that model for probably $2500 (or perhaps a real beater for only $1000) but then couldn't get it up to the condition of that car for anywhere near the $6495 asking price.

I need the heat choke housing that goes on a 4160/1850 type Holley four barrel carburetor. I have the choke flap, shaft, and vertical rod which connects the flap to the arm which is on the shaft in the choke body but need everything else. I do not know if the heat tube connection on the Holley bodies pointed in different directions like those on AFBs but if so then the body I need would have the heat tube coming in from over the top of the valve cover and going straight in from the side of the carburetor. This is for a 427 Fairlane application. Thanks, John Reeder

The carburetors are the same '59-'65, the linkage is being reproduced but you would be better off installing '64/'65 GTO linkage and fuel lines which is better and safer which is why the factory went that way (which is also reproduced). You will see all manner of tripower setups on Ebay and Craigslist but would be better off (trust me here) going to someone like Mike Wasson at Pontiactripower.com, or Jon Havens in the St. Louis area, and buying a turn key setup from one of them. They know what they are doing, do it right, and you can bolt what they send you on and drive with confidence. There are a couple of others who do excellent work and you might try the Performanceyears.com forum to find them. I work on these things too but am not looking for work. I have fixed a number of "deals" people acquired off of craigslist or where-ever where the carburetors were Chevys and not tripower, and/or the boosters were wrong and had incorrect air bleeds/idle jets in them, etc., etc. Believe me it will be worth your money to get your set from a known, reliable tripower expert. You will pay more at the outset perhaps but once bought you are done and good to go.

Packardsforever there are several '57/'58 tripower setup components on ebay right now including an air cleaner, at least one complete setup minus the air cleaner, and several intake manifolds.

Something you don't see often but then rarely is someone looking for one. A friend had a restored setup minus the big air cleaner for sale a couple of years ago on Ebay and never got a bid on it. I think his starting price was $1750. He may still have it and if you think you may be interested I will pm you his name and phone number. The correct big air cleaner is very very hard to find. I sold one of them about four years ago, that needed some work by a competent bodyman, for $500. I have a set of the carburetors only, no intake or air cleaner, and would restore and sell them if someone were interested. This same friend mentioned above probably has an extra intake manifold.

I have done it recently but it was in a '63 Catalina and not a '68 GTO. It took me probably half a day and the most difficult part was reinstalling the snout which the harmonic balancer is attached to. The bolt which attaches it is installed with quite a bit of torque and the best way to break it loose is to place a socket on it with a long breaker bar and then bump the starter with the breaker bar against the front frame fork. My car is standard shift and I had to get a friend to lie under the car with a crowbar jambed into the flywheel teeth, to keep the crankshaft from turning, in order to enable me to put it back on with the proper torque. I had to remove the radiator to have enough room to pull the old cam out and then snake the new one in. As low as the front end is on the GTO I don't know if you will have the room up front even with your radiator removed. Your grill support may be in the way and if so you will have to either remove the entire front end or pull the engine. Then dropping the distributor back in, which turns slightly as it drops all the way down, is just trial and error. It took me a two or three tries to get it down where the rotor was clocked right. One trick a friend taught me was how to set distributor advance with a multi meter. Set the multimeter to ohms and then attach one terminal to the hot wire going into the distributor, and the other to a good ground, and turn the distributor until you just begin to see resistance, then lock it down fairly tight where you can move it but it was stay where it is. You are now within 2 or 3 degrees of what the timing mark on the hub says and can start the car right up and break the cam in without worrying about messing with distributor advance right at engine start up. Of course you want to set the timing mark on the balancer hub to 6 degrees advance before setting the distributor. And of course you can have set the #1 piston is at TDC before you put the valley pan back on after installing the new cam and lifters. Be sure to follow the cam manufacturers instructions regarding cam break in using plenty of assembly lube on the lobes and adding the zinc additive to the oil. It is really a pretty straightforward process.

According to Wangers in one of his books they called it a 326 because of the then corporate ban on putting anything over 330 cubic inches in an intermediate size car. Then in '64 they actually made the engine meet the corporate edict. Now the question is still why did they call it a 326? If they were fibbing they could have called it anything. I suppose they knew they would be modifying it to be a 326 so to avoid confusing the public they chose the number it would become. And then of course they skirted the corporate ban altogether by coming up with the GTO option.

I'm sending you a private message..

That price may be market as the price was $1200 several years ago. Even if it is slightly over market what you would paying extra for would be instant delivery since there is always a six months or more wait until your core is restored and shipped back to you.

Thanks for the response; yes as partsman indicated your car has Chevy 283 valve covers on it which won't fit Pontiac heads.

If that is a U.S. Pontiac and the valve covers are in good shape I would be interested in buying them from you.

Go to Barnes & Noble or Books-A-Million and find the current "Old Cars Price Guide" which they publish each year. The more of a given model sold the more accurate the guide and I have no idea how many '72 Luxury LeMans trade hands every year so couldn't comment there, but the guide will give you a starting point. For instance the guide is pretty accurate when pricing '64-'70 GTOs of which quite a few sell every year but not accurate at all on '61 Venturas where very few sell. I have an '04 copy of that guide and it says a 2 dr HT Luxury LeMans in #2 condition then was worth $10,200 (you didn't state 2 dr or 4 dr). Also watch ebay to see if any of that car are for sale and what the asking and selling prices are, and look in Hemmings Motor News and do the same thing. Once you or they decide on a listing price the quickest way to sell the car would be to put it on ebay and/or in Hemmings IMO. If you decide to go the ebay route the more pictures included in the auction and the more detailed the description the more interest you will generate, at least that has been my observation.

Thank you Art....John

Thank you for the information. I went back to the Guidelines and the form came up. It did not when I first went there before my first post I guess it was something in my computer? Thanks again....John

I found the Judging Guidelines fine I just could not download or see the Meet registration form from within it...what I wanted to see was what I would need to provide to attend the Spring meet in the Cape Canaveral area, how much it would cost to sign up, etc. I also went to that chapter's website but the from isn't on it.

I was trying to bring the one in the Judging handbook up just to see what is on the form. We have never been to a meet and were thinking about the one near Cape Canaveral each spring.

I logged in and the meet registration form doesn't load?

Not mine but looks like a very nice old car. Here is the link 1968 Olds Delmont 88 - PY Online Forums

$400

std. bore '65 289 block cast in late '64. 6 bolt block. 2 sets of heads one set 289 one set 302. 2 oil pans. 2 timing chain covers. 5 valve covers. 2 crank shafts. bell housing, block saver plate, flywheel, clutch, clutch fork. MSD billet distributor. 4 bbl intake manifold. Stored indoors by me for the last 20 years and indoors by others before that. I was going to use in a Cobra kit but that isn't going to happen so someone who can use may as well have it all. Will not part out take all or nothing. $500 firm must be picked up in Sour Lake, Texas about 90 miles East of Houston.

btt

One set gone, the relisted second set link is eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

You have a PM.