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61-63

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Everything posted by 61-63

  1. I just registered on the SEMA site, sent a message regarding this to my local car club, and plan to pay a visit to my congressman's office. If each and every member of AACA, POCI, etc., etc. would visit their congressperson or write a letter regarding this issue it will make a difference. The only way to stop this is to make ourselves heard.
  2. I don't know where you are located but my PPG store can still special order lacquer. Have you tried your PPG supplier?
  3. Thank you for the response. In response to my3buicks judging in POCI has been this way since 2001 at least. I joined in late 2000 I think it was and have gone to their Nationals since then. I helped judge in 2003 and 2004 mainly to learn about my car. The build sheet thing applies only to '61 and up year cars because Pontiac Historic Services does not have access to records earlier than that. If the cars you are aware of are 1961 or later and the people don't have their build sheets perhaps their cars are being judged in modified? Or there may be shenanigans going on, which I have seen too. Thanks again for the response. I like AACAs way better than the Pontiac clubs. Personally I wish Pontiac Historic Services didn't exit. The fact that it does and the way POCI judges is keeping some nice cars out of their organization.
  4. This question concerns AACAs requirements, if any, that Pontiacs built 1961 and later be authentic to the build sheet. In short must they be? I belong to The Pontiac Oakland Club and as any of you who also belong know they require that in order for a 1961 or later car to be placed in the "stock" class, the owner must have obtained the build sheet for the car from Pontiac Historic Services and the car must match the build sheet item for item. Any deviation from the build sheet, even if the equipment is "correct" for the year of the car, and the car must be placed in the "modified" class. I downloaded the AACA rule book last night and although I didn't read it word for word slowly I did not see that the above was so in AACA. So I assume if a person had for example a 1961 Pontiac, correctly optioned to that year, the car would be judged as to quality/authenticity regardless of what the build sheet said, and no deductions would be made for equipment not installed on the car when it was built. Thanks in advance for any responses.
  5. Does anyone know of a source that can reline the finned Aluminum front brake drums that were available on 60s era Buicks?
  6. Dave I just sent you two pics of the car and will send more Thursday if you like. The car is accurately described in the OCA Buy/Sell section of this forun on the 2nd page near the top. John
  7. I'm not sure if I'm selling one or not at this point. I picked up a complete '61 Dynamic 88 Olds station wagon which is a base level car with a stick shift and radio and that is it. I bought it to make a little money to put into my Pontiacs and am just trying to figure out how to maximize my gain. I'd hate to part it out as it is a complete car but on the other hand! The Cars & Parts Guide says it should be worth from $1800 to $3100 as I read the book but after following Oldsmobiles on Ebay for a month or more now I'm not so sure about that range. I think '61 Olds were neat cars but it appears the market doesn't value them much.
  8. Could someone tell me the approximate value of a complete set of the mechanical components needed to convert a 1961 Oldsmobile full size to a standard transmission? This would include the flywheel, clutch assembly, bell housing, z- bar, all linkages, and the pedal assemblies. I am a Pontiac enthusiast primarily and all of this for a 1961 Pontiac would be worth $750-$1000 but I have no idea of the value for an Olds. Thanks in advance.
  9. I just acquired a 1961 Dynamic 88 Station Wagon that I am going to resell. I am currently rebuilding the brakes and transmission and when I finish it will be an original driving and running 98,000 mile car. Here are the specifics: Standard steering, standard brakes, standard transmission, backup light deletes, poverty hubcaps, no A/C, does have a radio. No rust on the bottom edge of any panels and no bubbles (it is a dry Texas car). Body is straight with the exception of a small dent at the bottom edge of the passenger side rear quarter and the tail gate. All exterior trim is there but the long stainless strips along the side need to be replaced. A couple of them could possibly be tapped out but they are all pretty beat up with 44 years of doors being opened against them. All lights are there but one tail light lens is broken. All the glass is there and none broken, but the bottom edge of the windshield is starting to whiten so I would replace it if I were doing the car. Surface rust only on the underside and solid except for the passenger side floor pan which must be patched or replaced. The car was undercoated on the wheelwells only. Engine bay is all original; 2 bbl carb v8. Interior all there but must be redone except for the third seat which is nice. The headliner could possibly be saved. The Cars & Prices book says a '61 Dynamic 88 #5 car is worth $1850 and a #4 $3100. I'm thinking this car is between a #4 and a #5 and am thinking I will price it at $2400. I am not an Olds guy. What do you Olds people think this car should be listed at? It is a complete car but needs restoration.
  10. UBB7-ML-277120-ML- 61-63...moved your query to the Tech Questions area. Regards, Peter J. Heizmann
  11. Can anyone recommend a source of the codes the various steel wheel manufacturers applied to rims made for American autos in the late 50s thru early 70s?
  12. This is just one more vote for the trailer. I've towed with a dolly and now have a trailer and the trailer is far less risky and far more convenient if you are doing any distance at all. I sure wouldn't want to put that much stress on either end of a 60 year old car for that many miles using a dolly. Another factor with the dolly not yet mentioned is that you can't back up. You can back the trailer into slots at each motel along the return trip.
  13. Thank you for the response and information. I went to Fusick and looked at the 564692 clips. They will do what I want perhaps? and I have seen them on rims at wrecking yards. They are riveted to the rim. The ones on Pontiacs snap into the slot in the rim and can be pressed together and snapped back out, so they are a little different. I'll keep looking. I don't remember ever seeing clips on a Buick rim. I'm thinking now that the people who told me that Olds and Pontiac had the same clips are confusing the 564692 clip with the Pontiac clip.
  14. I am restoring a 1961 Pontiac and will be putting poverty caps on it. In order to do so I need three spring clips per rim, that fit into slots made for them, and which hold the caps on. I am told that an Olds restoration supplier has repopped these clips, which were also used on late 50s/early 60s era Oldsmobiles. If anyone is aware of a source for these clips I'd sure appreciate your pointing me in their direction. Thanks, John
  15. If they start cutting up a '61 Pontiac fullsize email me; I need some parts.
  16. Actually it was because the guy in purchasing didn't order enough blades.
  17. Pontiac 59 you need to hang onto those cars. They will sell. DaveZZZ hit the nail on the head as to why the younger generation is not heavy into restoring cars. I retired four years ago and until then I was like DaveZZZ, and additionally got transferred every four or five years. Impossible to restore cars under those conditions. But now I'm almost finished building a shop, I've collected no less than four project cars (got carried away yes I did), and am about to start on the first car. If you read anything about population trends you'll know that the baby boom generation is just starting to retire. Million and millions of guys, many wanting to have that special car they wanted when they were young but couldn't have, are about to head your way.
  18. Frank thank you for the post and picture. I checked back for a couple of weeks and saw no response and then haven't checked in almost a month; hence my slow response. No that was not what I need. Instead of schematic I should have said picture. What I need is a picture or drawing of the '65 valve body that shows where the little check balls go. All of the reference materials I have show the '67 and up valve body and the check ball placements in it.
  19. Does anyone have a schematic of a 1965 C-4 Ford automatic transmission valve body. The valve body I have is a '65 model while all of the books I have show pictures of the 67 and up valve body, which is different. I want to be sure the check balls, etc., are right before I button the transmission up. If someone could email a picture of the '65 schematic or refer me to a website with a picture I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance, John
  20. Does anyone have a schematic drawing of a 1965 Ford C-4 automatic transmission valve body they could post or email to me? I just learned that the valve body on the C-4 I have is a 1965 version and all of the schematics I have are for 1967 and up valve bodys, which are different. before I button the transmission up I want to be sure all of the little check balls are in the right locations. Thanks in advance.
  21. UBB7-ML-201104-ML- I moved it to the Technical Questions topic...Peter J. Heizmann
  22. Has anyone used the Caswell Plating Triple Chrome system to replate potmetal items such as headlight doors, taillight bezels, etc. and if so what was your experience?
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