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virgilmule

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Everything posted by virgilmule

  1. Thanks, Matt! I appreciate the help!
  2. Thank you both for your help. Looks like I'll be crawling under the car in the near future!
  3. I am helping an elderly friend secure title for his '48 Roadmaster so that he can sell it. The data plate on the firewall was no help in giving me a serial number, and I couldn't find a plate on the driver's side pillar. The best I could do was find a number stamped into the engine block behind the distributor (#51706315). Is this the number he needs to register the car? I would appreciate any help! Thanks!
  4. Hello - Is this part still available? Jim 607-835-6318
  5. Yeah, but they're not the experts - you guys are!
  6. My guess is early 30's Chevrolet, but I will gladly defer to the experts! They are about 5" long, and have an internal clip to hold the handle in place. Thanks, Jim
  7. Thank you both! My guess had been Mopar of one sort or another based on the escutcheon, but the stubby "un-notched" shank had me confused. Jim
  8. Your help identifying this handle sure would be appreciated! Thanks, Jim
  9. David - Your advice is good. As you probably can tell, I am no mechanic. I have an amateur - albeit very knowledgable - mechanic with over 40 years experience helping with the work. I also rely heavily of the local machinist who has repaired many of the issues I've uncovered since opening up the engine. My machinist recommended 40# of torque, based on the fact that there are 3/8" bolts holding the rod bearings together. Of course, there's also the issue of those pesky cotter pins, which will necessitate slightly over- or under-tightening the nuts so that the holes line up. His recommendation is to over-tighten if necessary. I'm unsure about your warning regarding scraping the bearing. The one bearing I had repoured was done professionally to the correct specs. I believe these bearings have an internal oiling system, as there is a tiny hole in the upper half of the bearing leading up into the rod. So, I'm FAIRLY confident that I'm not about to damage the crank - although as you say, if I'm wrong I have a huge expense awaiting me. I appreciate your help. I will continue posting as the job continues to update you (and everyone else) on my progress. Wish me luck! Jim
  10. I'm still plugging away on my engine repairs! I've had to fix a burned valve, cracked exhaust manifold, seized heat riser, and chipped babbit bearing. Finally, the pistons have been reinstalled, but I need advice regarding how tight to snug the nuts which hold the connecting rods to the crankshaft. If I tighten them too much, the engine is VERY difficult to turn, but how loose do I leave them? There is a cotter pin which goes through each bolt, preventing them from ending up in my oil pan, but is there a preferred "looseness" for those nuts? A friend mentioned that a shim can be used to help, but how thick of a shim do I use? Also, do I use the shim between the two halves of the babbit bearing, or between nut and rod? Any help SURE would be appreciated!
  11. Owen - Holy cow! You GREATLY overestimate my mathematical ability! I have a better chance of success setting the valve clearances using ESP than doing those calculations! Nonetheless, I do appreciate the advice! Jim
  12. Thanks, Rusty. You make it sound fairly easy...and not nearly as messy as I pictured it might be. I was imagining hot oil splashing all over everything and everyone. It will be a couple of weeks before the babbitt bearings are repaired, then I'll be back to work on the car. Maybe I'll get the courage up by then to adjust those valves the RIGHT way! Jim
  13. I'm learning (and spending!) a lot! We tried to reinstall the pistons: the rings were the wrong size! My fault: I had taken a spare piston (from a set I had purchased from a gentleman who told me they were from a car like mine) to the machine shop to ensure that the correct ones were ordered. Turns out the "spares" are 1/16" bigger than mine! New rings are being ordered. Then the learning/expense curve took a huge upswing: babbitt bearings! It appears I need one or two bearings repaired/repoured. Fascinating process - I watched a "Youtube" video of how it is done. The parts are on their way to South Dakota for repairs. The big picture: better to find/fix these problems now rather than later, because you KNOW that "later" would come at a MOST inconvenient time! Restoration sure teaches one patience! Jim
  14. Update - Rings have been found and are ready to go in. Pistons have been cleaned. Cylinders honed (?) and oiled. Valves refaced, reseated, and reinstalled. Head resurfaced, repainted and ready. New head gasket purchased. Manifolds repaired (small crack in exhaust manifold), painted, and ready. All new gaskets on hand. Biggest obstacle now is time! It's hay season and the sun SURE is shining, so other pursuits get put on hold until the fields are cleared. Another week or so, and the Marmon gets moved to the front burner again. With any luck, I'll have it back on the road by Labor Day. By the way - it would appear that my overheating issues were PROBABLY the result of the heat riser being seized up in a 3/4 closed position. Most likely I did not need to boil out the radiator, rebuild the engine, etc. However, when this work is done, it ought to run like new. Jim
  15. DWR46 - Thank you for your insight - especailly regarding the fact that different areas of the engine experience different heat ranges. My plan is to set all clearances at .010" to begin with, then recheck (probably more than once - why get lazy now after coming this far?) and set them at .008" once the beast is up and running again. What has me spooked is the recommendation in the original "Information Book" (owner's manual) that after each 1,000 miles the valve clearances be adjusted "to .008 inch when hot and running." Hot and RUNNING? I'm not quite sure how that would be possible, but apparently the mechanics in 1930 could do it, so I'm sure I can find someone in this day and age to accomplish it. I hope... Jim
  16. Walter - Thank you. I'll take your advice. Your thoughts about what the manufacturer had in mind make lots of sense. Jim
  17. Does anyone know what the valve clearances are for a 1930 Marmon Model 8-79? I know the HOT clearances are .007 for both inlet and exhaust valves, but would like to know COLD clearances if possible. Thanks, Jim
  18. I found a GREAT machinist in the area that has solved most, if not all, of my problems. By the way - he gets his pistons from Hastings. Keep your fingers crossed! Jim
  19. I am taking one of the pistons to a machine shop tomorrow to find out the feasability of modifying the ring grooves. I've ruled out the option of boring out the cylinders so that I can use a stock ring: from what I've been told, the rings would STILL ride too high and I'd end up having to deepen the grooves anyhow. Restoring a car sure teaches you patience... Jim
  20. The compression rings (3 per piston) are 3 3/16 (diameter) x 1/8 (width) x 1/8 (depth). The oil ring is 3 3/16 (diameter) x 3/16 (width) x 1/8 (depth). If I am doing my homework correctly, custom-made rings will run me $1400 ($35 per compression ring, $70 per oil ring). There's GOTTA be a cheaper way out of this mess!
  21. I am in the process of rebuilding the engine in my 1930 Marmon 8-79. I cannot find a source for new or NOS compression and oil rings, which presents quite a problem! I just contacted Egge Machining Company - who I assumed would be the answer to my problems - and they cannot help me. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks, Jim (I have also posted this on the Marmon Forum.)
  22. I am in the process of rebuilding the engine in my 1930 Model 8-79. I cannot find a source for new or NOS compression and oil rings, which presents quite a problem! I just contacted Egge Machining Company - who I assumed would be the answer to my problems - and they cannot help me. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks, Jim
  23. I have "a line" on a '27 Convertible Roadster in VERY restorable condition - although it hasn't been on the road since 1962. I was told that this car is more than meets the eye because of its place on the assembly line in 1927: something about being one of the last Dodge Brothers vehicles prior to being purchased by Chrysler. These numbers may be switched around, but I believe the car's serial number is D733272(5?), and the engine number is C806268. Do those numbers verify that it was in fact one of the last DB cars made? Assuming it is in #4 condition, would anyone be willing to guess at a fair market value? Thanks!
  24. In going through my father's barn, I found what I at first thought was a Model A hubcap: about 3" across, a row of teeth on the underside to keep it in place, raised script lettering in the center. THEN, I looked a little closer: I can SWEAR the hubcap says "Fool!" Can anyone make heads or tails of this?
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