JohnD1956

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Everything posted by JohnD1956

  1. Either the torque converter cover seal or the front pump seal.
  2. Welcome Ed. I don't have a 41 but others will likely chime in soon. As for trans and rear axle fluid I believe you will find 90 Wt in there. And for brake fluid DOT 3 should work. For the engine I believe you'd be better off with 30 wt, although a 10W 30 would fit the bill. You didn't mention the oil bath air cleaner but that may be 50 wt. Good luck with your car. And looking forward to pictures.
  3. How about "Rope Caulk" for windows? It comes in a roll. And can be had in black or white. It is for setting glass into window frames but it was so similar to what I found on and in my '56's heater core box that that's where I used it. Seems to hold up very well. Doesn't seem to dry out. Got it at my Ace Hardware store.
  4. Does you engine have the road draft tube?
  5. @dmfconsult Glad you brought this back up Doug. It will probably be a few more weeks before things start to bloom in this area. It was 74 (for a short while) here last Friday. We are expecting snow again on Monday...
  6. I thought the mesh was in there to trap the engine oil and drain it back into the engine. Otherwise you'd be sucking engine oil up the tube and dropping it into the oil bath eventually over filling it. But wasn't there a TSB that said to disconnect that tube? I thought I read here that the tube didn't really work well and it was discontinued? Maybe I have that wrong.
  7. Post the video to You tube, and then you can add a link here in a new post.
  8. This is a tough position! Let me start from the end. There are no affordable hobbies. Even gardening can be expensive. But it helps to focus on something that brings you joy. 40 is a scary time. For many it is a perception that things are moving forward while perhaps you think you are stagnant. Or maybe an awakening to one's mortality, and that there may not be enough time to accomplish what you want to do. But from my experience it is actually a time when magic happens. You may suddenly realize that opportunities exist and you're qualified to step into them. Things can happen fast, so regardless of how you currently feel, keep your eyes open and be available. Examine the "doesn't bring me joy" comment. Is it just related to Buttercup? Or the other assets too? I worked with a fellow who was heavy into old cars. I never did see his collection but was led to believe he had 3 cars all fully restored. We used to talk at work and one day he told me that he had grown tired of the cars and decided to let em all go. It was a bad decision. Several years later he missed the whole thing and then found it was hard to replace what he had. He told me " hang on to what you have!" Even if you are tired of it, just put it on the side. These were wise words. If you are truly tired of the cars, do what needs to be done to store em best you can. And wait a few years to make sure you really do not want them before letting them go. Also consider what each vehicle really needs, and then build a plan that will allow you to refurbish what has to be done on each to advance your enjoyment of them. Big projects and little ones. One year I just replaced the outside mirrors and the gas tank door guard on the '56 and I was done for that year. Make it a multi year plan. It's okay. Nothing has to be finished in a day. You have put a lot of time and effort into Buttercup to bring her back. You have restored her inner and outer beauty. It is okay to take a break from it for a while. But I think it is best to keep her running, even if not driving it locally, now that you have gone as far as you have with it. .
  9. I would also suggest having it looked at by a gas-tank-renu shop. I had my '56's tank done by one back in 2003. It is expensive but they do a great job with dents and can fix most rust. Also, my 72 has a similar canister sending unit. I don't know if these are the same part number but the over the counter sending units do work just as well.
  10. Joe, I think the major difference is the filler neck. IT might be that some tanks are the same in terms of measurements and capacity but the location of the filler may be different. Since the Hollender exchange shows none to be interchanged you may want to check your manual for dimensions and then see if you can find online references to the dimensions of others. Then you would have to see if the filler neck on yours could be removed and installed into the other tank.
  11. @MrEarl Those people were all lucky to have worked with you, but I bet most of them drive Hondas.
  12. That must be some hard sand. She is wearing pointed heels! Oh, the Buick looks like it tried to wipe out a few bugs getting there. It needs a wash
  13. Thanks Doug. I used regular style heavy duty shocks in the rear. I am not that enamored with the look of the back end higher than the front. I probably should have gone for the variable rate style springs to have avoided that.
  14. Another nice day. And a chance to get the Queen out. 72 Electra dust off If you ever get the chance, do not bypass those Oregon desert cars!
  15. A thread has already been started. Check it out here: Strongsville meet issues
  16. Is there a linkage adjustment in the shop manual?
  17. I didn't know if it would be right to "like" your last post Keith. Sounds like a whole lot of trouble for you! And I just wanted to say I hope your hand heals up quickly!
  18. HAha! I rented a Ford Fusion in Colorado for the National Meet, and over 4 days I could not trust the door locks. Seems it would unlock the car when it was approached with the key fob in my pocket. Not a problem there. But before I walked away I would hit the door lock button and then after a few feet I would hear the door locks activate. Since from a few feet away there was no visible door lock button, I could not tell if the car was locked or unlocked. The first few times I walked back to check and the doors were unlocked. But I could not tell if that was simply because I approached it with the key fob. Before long I just walked a few more feet away and hit the key fob and then hoped it was actually locked. Sheesh! Sure was missing my old Buicks then! I also had to go back inside to ask if the gas tank was full or not. I could not get a handle on the chart it had for a gas gauge. WTF.. Just put a needle please! 🤔 😄
  19. Sounds like a bad way to start a future relationship in my opinion. Years ago my young son bought a stick shift Beretta. On day one I came home and found him with some others at the bottom of a steep hill where he could not get started without stalling. I sent the others to the house with my car and I proceeded to show him how to drive a stick shift by sound and feel. It only took one lesson. Everything from listening to shift point, starting on a hill with the parking brake, shift pattern, how to listen for lugging and downshift, and in my opinion) stopping without downshifting. Later he sold that car to my other son and I redid the lesson with him. In the end we never had to replace a burnt clutch and between them they drove that car for tens of thousands of miles.
  20. The BCA By- laws indicate that the Club has to approve all uses of the Buick Logos. It used to be that these approvals were initiated by sending your request to the BCA office. I imagine from there the office would send it to the BCA board for a motion and approval.
  21. 56's dust off 2020 Hope that link works. Oiled the distributor's oil reservoirs, topped off the power steering fluid and brake fluid, drained and cleaned the oil bath air cleaner, and then had enough spare time to take a 14 mile jaunt today. It is down a quart of tranny fluid from leaks over the winter. Gotta pick some up before the next outing. Sure felt GREAT driving it again!
  22. I was taught the scraping method as a teen, but the last adjustment I did on the '56 was the non scraping one. It may be that the parking brake needs to be adjusted tighter in order to bring the pedal up in both situations. I am satisfied with the no scraping method as long as I can get my sneaker toe under the depressed pedal and the pedal is firm, not spongy.
  23. First observation from your video is that the head has consistent temps front to rear. If there was an imbalance in the engine causing the temp differential in the headers I would think that would be reflected in the head temp at the back. So, the 2nd observation from the video is that there is less airflow at the back of the engine likely due to the length of the motor and the presence of the all the peripheals between the front two header leads and the rearmost header leads. The 3rd observation deals with the whine. That doesnt sound like the waterpump from my viewing window. I wonder if it is the fan belt. Did you use anything to listen directly to the pump. Some use a long screwdriver between the unit and the ear. But a mechanics stethoscope is my preferred method. Got mine at the NAPA for less than 10.00. You can really hone in on noises that way.
  24. X2 on the recore of the original radiator. While pricing that out consider going one row wider for greater cooling capacity, unless you're already at the max core width. Bumped my 56 from a 2 row to a 3 row, and my 69 from a three row to a 4 row. The extra cost stung up front but decades later I hardly remember it.