JohnD1956

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Everything posted by JohnD1956

  1. A different road in the hills tonight. Both pictures are the same view. About 30 miles or so and it looks like the signal light flasher bit the dust. Not sure if this is the original one but I never put one in before. You'd think it would last more than 40 years.
  2. Whoa! But do you really need two gallons? Isn't it usually mixed 50/50 with reducer thus making two gallons out of one? No point in having $267.70 sitting on the shelf for multiple years and then finding it to be spent when you may possibly need it.
  3. Sorry to say but I think it was a mistake to hook up both gauges to the one sender. Isn't that sending two power sources to the same rheostat and ground? It just does not sound like it's something that should be done. Hope one of the more knowledgeable electricians here can comment on that before you put gas in the tank.
  4. 😬 I know your pain! That's why my 72 lives in the 31 ft long shed! 😁
  5. Looking at the interior side it appears the support rod, where it connects to the foot pedal, is hitting the back of the bolt that holds the foot pedal to the hinge. Perhaps the bolt holding the foot pedal onto the hinge need to be turned around?
  6. Geeze Matt. Wish I lived closer and could come over to help with this.
  7. By chance might the brakes be dragging too much?
  8. May I assume you are referring to the steering gear, or are you talking about the power steering pump? Regardless, how adept are you with tools and the Buick Service manual? Some here have rebuilt theirs, some others have had them rebuilt. No matter which method you choose, some have been happy with the results, some have not.
  9. Recommend keeping your filter in place. Mine has been in the car since 2003 and here it is after the last 240 miles of mostly highway speed travel.
  10. What a dunce! I sure can make mistakes! Usually when I am done using the car I will use the battery disconnect switch after it is parked in the garage. But I forgot to disconnect the battery last night AND I forgot to turn off the radio too. I was so surprised when it spun over with no problem this morning despite my neglect. Gotta love those great big truck batteries! Anyway here it is after it's AM bath!
  11. Try starting with the ignition in the OFF- UNLOCKED position, and key in place. Then insert a regular paper clip into the hole and then turn towards the 70* mark
  12. I apologize but I am not familiar with this terminology and wanted to ask if this is the equivalent of feeling like the trans seems to slip a bit more? And if so, then: it may be possible that the perception is real. A tranny guy once told me that burnt fluid usually contains some clutch material in it. When changing burnt oil out he had seen instances where the trans would not engage afterwards because now that material was eliminated and that was providing some required friction. Since your pan was clean it would appear that someone before you already did a change and thus a 2nd change may be the start of a situation like this.
  13. Under your wallet. It may be advisable to have the coolant checked for oil and I am not sure but is there something to test for combustion gases? I am thinking a bad head gasket.
  14. Nice body work Keith! I am amazed at the mechanical quirks you are finding. I hope you can source a replacement spindle.
  15. June: In which my Sweetheart celebrates her Birthday also has some of my favorite pictures.
  16. That looks like a great road Larry! Yes, the car gets a coat of dust. But it is likely the way it was when your car was built!
  17. Just to be clear, disconnecting the wire at the sensor should break the circuit and the lights should not go on except for when starting the car. According to the wiring diagram you shared with me, the temp light circuit is grounded in the ignition switch for when you turn the key to the start position. Once started the ground in the ignition switch should be broken mechanically. This is apparently to provide the test of the lightbulbs on both sides of the temp circuit before the car is running. When the car is cold the cold light would be grounded through the sensor additionally. And unless overheating the hot light should be off. And disconnecting the wire at the sensor should result in no cold or hot light when the car is running except for the afore mentioned test period. With the sensor disconnected you should not have either light on while the car is running and if you do, then there is a short to ground in one or both wires to that sensor. What may have been happening was the wire for the hot light may have been touching the wire for the cold light at the break, and grounding the hot light as well as the cold light when you were first starting it. But the hot light coming on after warm up and without the cold light or overheating still indicates there is a short to ground in the wire leading to the hot light. Since this all started with replacement of the heater core I think you should look around the heater core's plenum to make sure a wiring harness did not get pinched between the plenum and the firewall. Since that harness includes the wires to the coil if it is pinched that may be the cause of the rough idle too.
  18. That throng of people don't know what they're missing...lol
  19. Fueled the Electra today. Added 164 miles to my previous total of 608. Puts me at 772 for now. Gotta come up with someplace to go.
  20. Sweet biscuits! Could use some luck like this!
  21. I don't understand. Did you take this out of your car? Or did someone advertise this as an original 55 Century seat. I do not believe it is the 55 seat. I say that because the picture of the seat from the front shows that the drivers side and passengers side have a bit of a concave to them. I believe the 55 would be flat all the way across. Also the pictures of the underside show a blue foam as the bottom layer. I believe the bottom layer would have been a waxed burlap material. So at best this seat has been re upholstered. But that does not mean it isn't a 55 Buick seat. Just that it is not an original seat upholstery. It might help if you can take a picture of the backs of the seat tops. I can't help on the fitment question. From my perspective that is something you'd have to try out. I would recommend removing the seat track portion and test fitting it to the floorboards .
  22. This is my drivers side horn with the cover removed. This one horn has never been heard by me and I am wondering if anyone can help repair it? According to the manual there is only an adjustment performed at the nut and locknut on the top. Also with an ampmeter connected in series, this horn should draw 9.6 amps minimum. When I ran test leads the best it would draw was 2.66 amps and there was just a little momentary bleep out of it. But it doesnt appear there are any moving parts other than those two nuts. Is that correct? Is there any point in pursuing any lubrication in here? I appreciate any help. Thanks John D
  23. Can you better describe what is considered " bouncy"? Did you previously replace the rear shock absorbers?
  24. Are you referring to the bar that attaches to the frame on the one side, and then the rear axle housing on the other side of the car?