JohnD1956

Wow! Here's another question for you. White or blackwalls with the chrome road wheels? 😄😄 Ps: Any chance we could see a picture of the 66 Skylark?

Absolutely Chris! By the way, I see quite the lineup in the background! May I ask whats all under the covers?

Or the choke is not adjusted or working correctly. When you say "a bit" of driving are you saying 3 or 4 miles or ten to twenty miles?

😅😅😅

K@Scott B welcome to this forum group. Looks like a great car! I recommend you start a second thread in the Pre-War area to ask about the car. The prewar guys are very knowledgeable and helpful. Since your car has an updraft carb I think it should have a vacuum fuel canister but I don't know if that is a fact. If so, I dont see the vacuum cannister. And unless someone put an electric fuel pump in there, this may be the reason it is cutting out.

Sebastion, I believe in 1969 Buick only had a right side passenger door rear view mirror without the remote control feature. The drivers side did have the remote control feature but may have been an option to be ordered separately. @Buicknutty i dont know what your door skin looks like for the curve where the mirror goes, or what your 68 mirror shape should be, but the 69's are repopped and can be bought separately, or as I did, as a pair because I prefered the two mirrors to match. They weren't that much and look very good, although they are nowheres near as heavy as the factory pair. Its nice to have the new chrome plating right out of the box.

It sounds like the accumulator is not functioning properly. The 56 manual has (I believe) tests that would be done to test the accumulator function. Does the 61 Manual indicate available testing methods?

Can you explain your concern a little better? What do you think the trans should do that it doesn't do? It seems to me that you are looking for some sort of discernable shift at some point, but a Dynaflow does not have any discernable shifts except a distinct pickup when the stator's pitch is changed due to heavy acceleration while underway.

There is nothing stopping anyone from making a body tag. None of that information is used to title or register a vehicle. I don't know of anyone who does it. And I am not certain it is really worth it. What purpose would it serve at this point?

Sorry. I made an incorrect assumption that you were referring to the starter. Totally my mistake. Carry on!

I remember a comment about a Buick V6 installed in a boat, indicating the engine turned in the opposite direction of the automobile version. Not sure if that would be the same for an engine in your vintage.

Wlcome to this Forum, and to Buicks. That advertisement seems to be one ferrule that could be used on either side of the car, one tool for installation of the ferrule that is universal for either side and the trunk ferrule(if required), and then two different estcheons which are likely intended to be used on specific sides of the car. I will caution that I never had direct experience with your year Buick so I could be wrong. Wishing you good luck

Wonderful, and a beautiful Buick too! Looks like you are doing a superb job restoring it.

Do you leave the fan belt off during this run? And are there guidelines for "a few minutes"?

In the 400 RPM it sounds to me like it will easily go down another 100 RPM. Don't expect it to run smoothly at the 350 RPM. It will just about run but it will run that slowly for the few seconds it takes to adjust the timing.

Wow! I thought it was standard on the Electra. I am surprised.

That map light is just like the others of it's age. Incandescent, low wattage, I think it's powered with the ignition is on, and by sliding the unit to the side completes the ground to light up. It is its own switch, and no others control it. In '69's the wire ran down the "A" pillar to the fuse box. Simple and effective for it's age. But probably real dull for comparison of todays standards. I am surprised your Electra does not have one.

The point of that low idle is to negate BOTH the mechanical and vacuum advance. The metal line to the vac advance unit should not have to be disconnected if you can get the engine speed that low. If you cannot get it that low it might be because of vacuum leaks. You might want to set to 450 RPM and then spray the carb and its base to check for leaks. Also you may want to disconnect the power brake line (if so equipped) and cap it off. And same at the wiper motor, and then see if you can get to the 350. If I recall you are also supposed to be doing this with the engine fully warmed up. So make sure the choke plate is wide open. And do not forget to check the short rubber vacuum hoses on the lower side of the vacuum pump. Make sure they are proper sized and tight. .

Have you scrutinized the carb linkage set up when you have tried to get the RPM down? Specifically, is the idle adjustment screw still bottomod out on it's boss when you are turning it down,, or is there a gap between the base of the screw and its boss?

That whistle can come from deceptive locations. It coukd be the flipper sticks out a bit too much from the body and catxhes the air as it whios off the corner of tge windshield. It could be the angle of an outside rearview mirror. It could be weatherstrip under the flipper. It could be the entire vent assembly is not located exactly as needed to miss the air stream. I like @old-tanks response. Open the window. that is how I addressed that on the drivers side on the 56. And for now the vent window on the pass side is taped closed.

May I presume you have tried opening the vent window to see if the whistle goes away while driving? It could be the whistle is the seal between the window and the A pillar, especially up in the corner with the chrome flipper trim. If possible you might want to try sealing all the suspected areas with duct tape strips and then remove them one by one on test drives till the location of the leak is found.

That is a beauty!

Those lines look so good its a shame to put a seat over them. 🤔😁😁

Oh my word!!! That cut is crazy! Dosen't look like it was labled, either side, before the cut. This is going to be quite a challenge. It may pay to check for further hidden cuts before trying to splice it back together. And ultimately it may be easier to purchase a whole new harness. I am wish you good luck!

I have no direct experience but I would also say lithium grease as long as there is another seal to prevent engine bay heat and fumes from entering the column.