JohnD1956

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Everything posted by JohnD1956

  1. That is one uncooperative Buick! What did the prior owner do to that to cause it to act up so much? 😁 But now that you point it out, if the Catylitic Converter is still in there I wonder if that is partially plugged and causing the overheating situation? Miore likely it would cause a loss of power when exhaust gases got backed up but there is a chance that it is contributing to the higher engine temps. However, I can relate a story to you about a 69 Olds Cutlass without AC which used to run hot enough to light the light after a one or two hour highway run. It was observed when we got caught in traffic and it was remediated by increasing the engine idle and putting the heater on. But it was eye opening alright. And only to point out it may be the nature of the beast, so to speak.
  2. @MrEarlDid the radiator core fins get flushed? With garden hose nozzele, from the fan side to the front end ought to do it.
  3. But unlike the crafty solution in the picture posted, be sure to include the drip trays for the Buick parts, which seem to leak even if there is no fluid in them to leak! 🙄
  4. I don't know for a fact but the earlier BOP trans are different bell housing bolt patterns than the Chevy engine. What you need is a 70 Olds 455. I'd say Buick 455 but then you'd be in another whole world of changes to logistics under the hood.
  5. Agree with Dei's last comments... And although it's nothing like driving to the National Meet, I did get the '56 out for a 30 mile round trip to the Wednesday Night Cruise in. First one I've made so far this year, and it was yet another great Buick ride. I have found a route that takes me round about and adds a few miles to the drive. But it avoids numerous traffic lights and heavy commuter traffic. And there I got the chance to park next to my friend Frank, who has taken steps to refurbish and slightly modify his 1960 Invicta. Refurbishment includes a new paint job outside and engine bay detailing. Also a new gas tank and all new fuel and brake lines. And he did the brakes with off the shelf rear shoes but relined front shoes, so as to maintain the correct shoe width that is no longer available on the shelf. Modifications include an Edelbrock carb, some new fangled ribbed valve covers with the word "Nailhead" cast in. Plus what appears to be a GM HEI distributor with a built in coil, and one of those alternators that looks like a generator. He also added dual exhaust. I did not get a picture of the engine bay. but will try to do so at this weekends event. He also put on Coker Classic wide whites in place of the bias ply wide whites he got with ownership of the car several years ago. On the outside the car looks original, while he is very satisfied with the modifications. I must admit that I have a real weakness for the intriguing chrome trim on the '59/60 Buicks
  6. I don't think it is just a "repair the tube" issue. Isn't there a gas inside the bulb and tube which is what causes the needle to move?
  7. Just ask any woman how much extra support is appreciated for those large dagmars! 😁
  8. I thought so. I know the 65 Electra had a cold and hot temp light. I have heard that currently it is hard to find a temp sensor with both ranges. But I do not know if that is accurate.
  9. Does your Riviera have separate hot and cold temperature lights?
  10. @MrEarl If you pull off the connector wire, and ground the connector with a test wire, then the bulb should light. If it does, then unless the connection on the sensor is just in need of cleaning, I would replace it. Have you ever pulled a wire out of a plastic connector on this age vehicle? It's very simple. I would pull it out and clean it with some 600 or so sandpaper, or even just scrub it with some fine steel wool. Advise if you need to know how to remove the wire from the connector.
  11. Was a nice evening this past Saturday. Headed out to no where with the '56 but I got out so late it got too dark for most of the ride to catch any pictures. Except this one I'll title: Into The Sunset... Sunday I got the Electra out for the day's travels. If this were hockey that would make it a Hat Trick weekend...
  12. Thanks for the posts Pete. The forum picture capabilities are definitely a challenge. When I have a lot to post I reduce the resolution to 1600 x 1600, and often back out of the thread and then re-enter to post the next batch. The quality suffers some but I think they are acceptable and for those of us who couldn't be there, very much appreciated. Besides, it gives us a chance to anticipate the better photos in the Bugle while wishing we could be there now. At any rate, thanks for posting, and glad the 46 performed well. Good luck with the rest of the Meet!
  13. @Edwin The Kid If you have already learned this I apologize for the post. Let me try to explain my earlier post with these few pictures. This represents the typical Buick flywheel/ring gear. Although it is a picture of a 55's, I believe yours will be very similar. The 6 holes denoted by the yellow arrow are holes for bolts which hold the flywheel to the back of the crankshaft. The hole denoted with the red arrow is an alignment hole, and on a Buick it is odd to find that there is no corresponding pin on the back of the crankshaft. I do not have a picture of the back of a crankshaft, but there will be a hole drilled back there where a pin would go. You don't need the pin. When reinstalling you align the six holes so that the drilled hole in the crankshaft is aligned with this hole in the flywheel. This is for balance in the engine assembly, so it is important upon re installation. If you look around the outer circumference of the Flywheel/ Ring Gear you will see numerous holes. And you will see three smaller diameter holes denoted by the black arrows. These are the three bolts that hold the torque converter to the Flywheel/ Ring Gear. While I assume your 52 flywheel is the same, you may find that there are 4 smaller bolts holding the torque converter to the Flywheel/ Ring Gear. Here is a picture of your torque converter. The cover of the converter is denoted by the red arrow. That cover is bolted to the pump denoted by the blue arrow. For each hole in the Flywheel Ring gear, there will be a bolt in the torque converter cover. As you can see there are numerous small parts in between the cover and the pump. So here's the explanation of what I suggested before: Since you can spin the transmission body in a circle around the engine, you may be able to locate and access the 3 or 4 small bolts holding the torque converter to the Flywheel/ Ring Gear. And after removing those you may be able to remove the entire transmission from the back of the engine. These bolts are accessed through the opening at the bottom of the transmission where you removed the inspection plate and found all that debris. I suggest spinning the trans to locate these bolts and removing them BUT be cautious. If you remove all those bolts holding the torque converter cover to the pump, then you run the risk of pulling the entire converter apart and dislodging or losing some of those small parts. So just be careful to remove the 3 or 4 small bolts. Also expect a heavy weight from that transmission. It is easily over 100 pounds. When you are unbolting it I suggest supporting the transmission casing so that it does not fall off and land on you or break anything. If needed, please feel free to reach out with questions. This last picture is the name for all those parts in the 2nd diagram.
  14. Throw out the fishing poles. That will give you more room...🙂
  15. Looks like it would have made the jump if the operator hadn't had 2 nd thoughts on the ramp approach...😙
  16. Well, look around and we see that faithful reconstruction to exact original standards is really only practiced with museum pieces. What with the lack of availability and the changes inevitable in automotive related engineering and design, modifications are becoming more acceptable and in some cases even required. Even my cars are not totally original. The Electra has a recreated vinyl roof, the GS has R134A in the AC with a "sausage" type inline filter added, and the 56 has a 3 row radiator core.... The only modification on the '56 is the rebuilt AM radio with the line in for external broadcast sources ( the GS and Electra have this too). But those external dynaflow coolers are hard to find I imagine, and if you want to drive the car I do not think anyone would fault you for adding an external cooler. If desired, the plugged original cooler can remain in position with faux lines attached to give a realistic visual of originality, while the work is done within the new, more efficient piece. As always, 90% of the folks looking at the mechanicals will have no idea that that cooler is not original unless you hang it with plastic zip ties. 95% won't care if it's original and 100% of the people won't even know it's there when they see it driving down the road.
  17. Yes, I stand by my statements. It was indicated that the trans cooler had black greasy solids in it. I figured this was in the coolant passages of the trans cooler. As such, that same black greasy material is probably present, and settled into the lower regions of the engine block. And if the cooler cannot be successfully flushed of that material, then I think I would go for an auxiuliary trans cooler for the front of the radiator, and eliminate this factory coolant unit.
  18. yes. Since it is out, I'd consider opening the core plugs and washing the block passages. More evidence the engine cooling passages should be checked? It's good that there is no water in the trans, but obviously it will tend to overheat the trans unless coolant flow can be restored. This might be a good candidate for an auxiliary trans cooler assuming those would be enough to cool a Dynaflow.
  19. The accompanying communication from the vote counters said they got 1,237 ballots. Since each member could vote for up to 3 candidates on one ballot, with no requirement to vote for any number of candidates, it does not seem appropriate to simply translate the total number of votes as the total number of ballots.
  20. That car is so sweet @jackofalltrades70! Have had the GS out several times today and wrapped up on a new to me back road tonite!
  21. Looks to me like the seat back is returned to position first and the the seat bottom is just rotated from the front to the rear. I dont think there is a latch when the seat is folded flat.
  22. May we assume you checked the trans fluid level?
  23. Without direct experience I would guess that you are experiencing normal operation. Earlier than 54-55 Dynaflows ,and even my '56 sometimes, may seem to be lackluster in off line performance. But while it may not be the vehicles finest point, the Dynaflows are usually very reliable. What you should check is the status of the fluid level. If my car is down a quart it seems to be working harder. Put that one top-off quart in - and the trans pick up is considerably better. Note also that sometimes the cap for the trans dip stick will slip and slide up and down the dip stick, thus rendering a reading difficult to get. I try to hold the cap in the correct position when testing the fluid level and topping it off. And you may also want to reorient your perception of performance. Cross referencing "seat of the pants experience" between the Dynaflow and the other two cars you have will have you yanking the trans for a rebuild with no appreciable increase in performance. And before even considering yanking the Dynaflow it would be advisable to make sure the engine is not in need of any services, like a tune up, new plug wires, or carb rebuild etc. Good luck