tomwallace

<style> <!-- /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:Cambria; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4; mso-font-charset:0; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:3 0 0 0 1 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> Hi All. I did join the Franklin Club. I got a lot of literature for my car. I carefully looked through the Series 10 parts list to see what original equipment came with the car and what parts I am missing. The parts list actually had a lot of information concerning the differences between the A, B and C series 10 cars. My car has an early engine (cast aluminum air scoop), an early B demisedan body and a C upgrade kit. I am missing the rear footrest, rear robe strap/brackets, and the entire upper windshield/hardware. The scuff plates are gone also but I do have the drawings for them. I don't know what design needs to be stamped on them though. I downloaded lots of the original parts drawings from the website. The windshield parts drawings are great but I couldn't find the overall drawing for the 10 B demisedan windshield frame. As I understand, each model has it's own windshield design. Are there any Franklin club members out there that reproduces these windshield components? I did talk to Jeff Hasslen and bought a new firewall data plate. He did not know of anyone that reproduces the windshield parts. The car's frame was remade in ash by the previous owner after he bought it. And the frame is indeed solid. The remainder of the body wood framing needs replaced. The roof bows were replaced by him using just flat slats. I know the top is supposed to have curved bows to allow the water to run off to the side gutters. I do not know how much slope/curve that the roof needs. Jeff Hasslen said the Franklin Club does not have drawings of the wood body framing parts. The interior is all gone or rotted. The scuff plates were cut out of galvanized sheet metal. The floorboards are pieced together. Are there any 1923 Series 10 owners out there who could take some detailed photos of their windshield? Interior? scuff plates? Roof? I think the rest of the info missing parts I can reproduce form the parts drawings. Any help or suggestions appreciated. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

Thanks much, I'll get in contact with him. Tom

I recently bought a 1923 Franklin 10B Demisedan. It was owned by Al Briggs in AZ. It is a project car needing total restoration. I recently joined the Franklin club and downloaded some literature. I hope to get quite a few original blueprint drawings to help rebuild the wooden framing. The mechanicals are in decent shape. The firewall data plate is really degenerated and I can only identify the stamped vin number. I include photos of my car, my essentially blank firewall data tag and a similar intact firewall tag that I found on the internet. I did contact Jerry Turner from Nostalgic Reflections about remaking a firewall tag for me. He needs a very high resolution photo in order to manufacture a new one. Does anyone in the Franklin club produce repro firewall data tags? Any advice welcomed. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I closely examined the inside of the spare tire covers. I did find a couple spots where a brace could be bolted to. There is a single hole in the front of the cover and a hole with hook in the rear of the cover. Maybe a brace for a tire cover was easily lost or perhaps cumbersome. I include a couple photos. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

When we were at the Stan Hywett concours, Ed Minnie commented that my car's metal sidemount covers were missing the inside braces that keep the covers locked on. He said that were at least two styles of inside braces but he did not have pictures of them to send me. It would be great if other 1932 PA owner's could take a look at their sidemounts and share a photo or two of the braces. Ed said the braces would not be hard to manufacture. Any help appreciated. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I am going to restore a similar trunk. I cannot reuse my nails are they are rusted away. I can find no supplier for new ones. Where did you get your supply of these domed capped tacks? Thanks Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I was interested in a 1941 Packard 110 Convertible listed on craigslist in Fresno, CA. http://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/4374868955.html The seller is listed as Ian or Dirk. The seller's contact info gives an incorrect phone number; actually its a fax number for a bead store! The seller doesn't seem to respond to email through craigslist. Does anyone in Fresno know the correct contact info on these guys? Looks like a nice vehicle. Tom Wallace Dayton, OH

Thanks everybody for giving me their input. I'll try to do more research. It makes sense to see the car in person. I would not be able to look at the car til late spring. I 'll just wait and see if the car is for me. Thanks Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I found an interesting car at Gullwing Motors Cars. It's a 1925 Pierce Arrow Model B 80 sports Touring car, listed at $36.5 K. I think the asking price has been lowered recently. Photo from website below. Looks nice and well kept. There is not an extensive description of the car on the website. I have been told that car may be a bit underpowered with the six cylinder engine. It probably has a comfortable cruising speed of 45 mph. I happen to have a few early brass open cars along with late 30's sedans and convertibles in my collection. I am a larger fellow; 6' 5" and 260 lbs. I can fit into my cars quite well. I am concerned with early 20's cars concerning the space available for the driver. I assume that members of the message board know this car and it's history. Could you also educate me on the fine points of a mid 20's Pierce Arrow? Can a man of my size comfortably drive and enjoy this car? Any advice appreciated. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I am restoring a 1929 Buick 46S Master Coupe. One of the last components I need to complete the car is a pair of spare tire locks. Photo below of a restored lock set. I contacted Bill McLaughlin of the 1929 Buick Club who gave me a lead to call; Tony Bult, the BCA 1929 Buick tech advisor. So then I phoned Tony and he was able to sell me a pair of the cast iron pieces, locking pins, and hexagonal bolts. I have the stainless dust covers from Bob Sheppard in Australia. So the only item I need is pair of basco locks with the basco lid. I heard that the '29 Buick ignition lock from Bob's Automobilia will work but of course it doesn't have the basco sliding lid. Does anyone have a source for the basco lock? Any help appreciated. Thanks Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I have the original breeze carb on the car. I do have the carb manual also. I think it may be gummed up so we are going to clean it out and put it back on. Saturday is a day of polishing up the brass for the show if we can get the carb sorted out. The gear box is a bit noisy. The car sat in a museum for 30 years and they didn't hook up the tranny linkages properly. So a bit more work. Wish me luck. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

Trying to get my 1910 Hupmobile Model 20 B ready for a show on Sunday. We need to clean up the carb and a couple other things. I just purchased this car a few months ago and just now have time to work on it. I read about the oiler and that 16 drips per minute in the sightglass is about right to start out. We noticed that the oiler continues to drip even when the motor is not running. Is this normal? Much thanks Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

My car's wheel base is 119". So my car is not a limo or taxi. It looks like a four door touring sedan with rear trunk. It has twin windshield wipers, twin taillights, chrome trim ringed wheel covers, twin Air-Tone horns, labels on all under dash knobs, "custom" matching steering wheel and gearshift knobs, and twin sun visors. The interior was all replaced but is now all damp and musty. I found an ad on the internet that was selling a '38 Desoto. In the ad, he gave some info on the Desoto "Custom" produced during the summer of that year. In 1938, recession hit the country causing vehicle manufacturers to reduce production. Poor sales caused the Chrysler Corporation to respond by offering buyers special "dressed up" models during the midyear. The DeSoto version was called the "Custom". The engine remained the same and there were no fancy extras added to the exterior. The interior however, was much more "custom" with a special offering of fabrics, fabric combinations, contrasting plastic and knobs within the interior and many other "touches" that set it apart from its standard counterparts. Reports estimate that only 2,550 examples of these Custom DeSotos were produced in 1938. Until 1992, it was not know whether or not one was still in existence and hence it lovingly became known as the "Unknown DeSoto". The National DeSoto Club, in the early summer of that year, released an article discussing the Custom DeSotos and by late summer, this particular car had been discovered. She is full of features and options that were not available on the standard model including: twin windshield wipers, twin taillights, chrome trim ringed wheel covers, twin Air-Tone horns, labels on all under dash knobs, "custom" matching steering wheel and gearshift knobs, twin sun visors, front passenger armrest, contrasting shade interior and many little chrome touches to the interior and exterior. What do you all think? It sounds as if I have a custom model? Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I agree that my car should be classified as a touring sedan. I'll be sure to get a parts and interchange manual. Hopefully this car will be on the road by mid summer. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I was trying to determine the exact model I had. I assume each model came with different options. Mine is a four door sedan with heater and no radio. There is no robe rail or footrest in the back area. It was dressed up as a taxi and was used as advertising for a car dealership. The upholstery is not original and is a bit musty. Needs a bit of work to get it running. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I have just bought a 1938 Desoto S5. I have been researching and looking through the literature for 1938. I have seen a lot of different names used in reference to the models offered for 1938. See below. NADA Guides<O:p</O:p<O:p</O:p 1938 S-5 Models 2 Door Business Coupe, 2 Door Convertible Coupe, 2 Door Touring Brougham, 4 Door Convertible <st1:City w:st="on">Sedan</st1:City>, 4 Door Limousine <st1:City w:st="on">Sedan</st1:City> (LWB), 4 Door <st1:City w:st="on">Sedan</st1:City>, 4 Door <st1:City w:st="on">Sedan</st1:City> (LWB) and 4 Door Touring <st1:City w:st="on"><ST1:pSedan </st1:City>Classic Car Database 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Business Coupe, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Rumble Seat Coupe, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Brougham, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Touring Brougham, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Sedan, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Touring Sedan, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Convertible Coupe, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Convertible Sedan, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Sedan, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Limousine, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Traveler Sedan, 1938 Desoto S-5 Series California Taxi and 1938 Desoto S-5 Series Chassis DesotoLand, Duricy.com 1938 S-5 Models Standard, Custom, Taxi <O:p</O:pWhat is the real story?? Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I just bought a project car, 1938 Desoto S5 sedan. The interior is rather musty but usable. The carpeting is rotted. All of the window rubber seals are crumbling. The car needs all the wiring redone but I can do that. I have found different places that sell tune up kits, plugs, plug wires, etc. Is there anyone that repro's items such as dash knobs, floor sills, upholstery items, etc. thanks Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I did buy the 1929 Peerless 6-81 recently. I am looking for a radiator cap for my new car. The peerless eagle on Ebay and the one Don Sommer makes has a much smaller diameter base. The cap I need must have threads on the inside of the cap. The inside threaded diameter measure 2 1/2 inches. I found a nice brass chrome plated cap on Ebay but it measures 2 5/8 ich in diameter. I suppose I could have a machinist bore it out and press in a ring and then have the inside rethreaded. Any leads on a correct cap would be appreciated. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I found a 1929 Buick Model 29-46S on Craigslist. For Sale 1929 Buick - REDUCED (Carson City, Nv) It looks very solid and the engine is said to have been rebuilt. It is said to run well. The car is lacking the rumble seat lid and seat. Apparently everything else is present. Has anyone seen this car or knows of this car? Is it as solid as advertised? How hard will it be to source a trunk lid and seats? Any one out there who may have these parts for sale? Thanks for any help. Tom Wallace, Dayton, Ohio

Max, thanks for your comments. Could you post a couple pictures of the belly pan and shroud so that perhaps I could have them fabricated? I have seen different styles of tops on Model 20's that I found on the internet. I din't know which style was correct for my car. I have just found a copy of Cuthbert's book on Amazon.com this morning. I have to wait a couple weeks for delivery. This spring is the time that I will clean out the fuel system/carb and radiator. I want to go through the engine and add fresh oil. Then check out the tranny, rear end and brakes. I'm looking forward to driving it around the neighborhood. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I just started restoration last week. My first goal was to remove the steel fenders. To my surprise the fenders are paper thin; only good for patterns in my opinion. Does anyone know a shop that has reproduced these fenders in the past? Or perhaps have a lead on some decent fenders? I have been told by my car buddies that it would be better to fabricate the fenders in aluminum. The rest of the body is made in aluminum. I have been told the aluminum is lighter weight, an easier metal to fabricate and holds up better than steel. Any leads appreciated. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

Thanks David for your info. I think I'll take my time and look for an original. Maybe I'll pop over to the Hershey Swap meet next year and see if I can find one. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

The brass rod from the firewall to that crank arm is a spark timing control that was added. Wasn't this control usually hooked up to the lever on the steering column? It seems to be less user friendly to bend over and reach for the knob instead of using the lever on the steering column. I also noticed that I do not have an original dash ignition switch. Is the attached photo of a correct switch? Does anyone reproduce these or perhaps an original to sell? thanks Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

Thanks Bill, Just about to start the restoration. Having trouble finding the engine number and frame number. Will find them after we start taking it apart. Tom Wallace. Dayton, OH

I visited the Hupmobile Club site on Hemmings. Under the model info section, it stated where to look for the engine number, and car serial number. My car did not have a Hupmobile dash tag. The car serial number was found stamped on the frame cross member under the floorboard; #4763. The engine number was stamped in the engine/trans flange; #4739. The radiator has a manufacturer number that I mistook for the car number, "McCord Manufacturing No. 4250". My car also has a selden tag on the firewall. There is a stamped number 259604 on the tag. Is there any kind of registry where I can track the cars history with this number? As I understand, my car was built later in the 1910 Model year. My next move is to join the Hupmobile Club and get some literature from the club library. I need to find out correct color combinations and correct accessories. Any comments appreciated. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH