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billmeyer

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About billmeyer

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  1. So sorry for the delay in getting back to you. No pressure regulator is needed with this pump. It operates at about 3 psi. Even if you forget to turn it off, no problem. However, I do recommend the "on-off" switch because, if in an accident, the pump continues to work as long as there is power. Could be a fire hazard under this scenario. So be safe and run the wiring to the ignition switch through an "on-off" switch. Bill
  2. Last Fall, I installed an Airtex E8011 6 volt electric fuel pump in my 1950 Dodge with the hope that it would resolve my recurring vapor lock problem. It has passed every test with flying colors! I installed the pump near the fuel tank and wired it to the ignition through an "on-off" switch mounted underneath the dash. Before I key the starter, I turn the ignition on, flip the fuel pump switch to on, let it run for 5 seconds or so and then activate the starter. As soon as the engine fires, I turn off the electric fuel pump switch. I was in a parade this weekend and the temp hit 98. Engine
  3. I recommend the Airtex E8011 which can be ordered through most auto parts stores. I installed one in my 50 Dodge and it's great!
  4. I bought all the internal parts for my Dodge 6 from Andy Bernbaum @www.oldmoparts.com They will have just about everything you need. I had our engine rebored .060 oversize and Andy had the pistons for it, along with bearings, rings, etc. Bill Meyer
  5. Thanks, Fred! I think our 90 degree days are behind us, even here in Kansas, but have had the problem occur even in cooler weather. Will get back on and let everyone know after some more "tests". Bill
  6. I finished installing the fuel pump today and it worked like a charm... the car hadn't been run for more than a week but started right up after running the fuel pump for a few seconds. What an improvement! Used to have to crank a lot and use starting fluid. Would recommend it to anyone who experiences hard starting and/or vapor lock with one of these old buggies. By the way, I'm 70 years old and my early cars were a '47 Ford, '53 Studebaker, 50 Chrysler Windsor and '54 Chevy. I don't recall ever having a vapor lock problem back in the 50's & 60's with these buggies but it has been a rec
  7. I am installing an Airtex E 8011 electric 6 volt fuel pump in my '50 Dodge Wayfarer to help overcome a vapor lock problem. I chose this unit because it was recommended by many contributors to the technical blog in past postings. My Dodge is a positive ground system. Question: The pump has both positive and negative wire leads coming from the unit. The directions say to ground the negative lead. Will this work with a positive ground system? Or should I ground the positive lead? (In either case, I'll ground it to the frame of the car). Any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks! Bill Meyer
  8. Thanks so much, West, for your advice. The problem has occurred before but it came to a head last weekend when I signed up for a big annual parade here in my home town of Fort Scott, KS and, after lining up, turned the car off for a half hour until the parade was about to begin. My two little grandsons were with me and were looking forward to the big event! Not to be. The temp was in the 90's and the ol' Dodge wouldn't start. They sure were disappointed. I went back about 4 hours later and it started right up. Other than this, it's a fine running car but this has been a vexing problem, to s
  9. My 1950 Dodge Wayfarer suffers from vapor lock (at least I think that's what the problem is) when I attempt to re-start the engine after it has been off for more than a few minutes but while it is still hot... especially when the outside temp is in the 90's. It absolutely refuses to start until the engine has cooled down... several hours later. Once running, it runs fine and cold starting is not usually a problem. The fuel pump is a rebuilt unit and the carb was professionally rebuilt. I'm thinking about installing an Airtex E-8011 electric fuel pump... as near the gas tank as possible.
  10. My '50 Dodge had the Chevvy engine & tranny in it when I purchased it. This is way too much power for the suspension & brake systems on these cars. We hauled out the Chevvy engine, rebuilt the original 6 and restored the car to its original specs. To install the V-8, you have to cut out the main support beam that held up the back of the engine & transmission and fabricate one for the V-8. You also have to cut out most of the interior wheel wells. What a mess! We were able to locate a replacement cross-beam which we welded into place to support the ol' six. But I'm still miss
  11. My '50 Dodge runs at about the same temp as Frank's DeSoto. My engine was completely rebuilt, including having the block boiled out and had a new water distribution tube. It has, I believe, a 180 degree thermostat in it. It never overheats.
  12. Thanks... I actually did just that. But I think there's about 56 years of hardened old grease in there and want to give the parts a good cleaning and repacking. That's why I asked about pulling the axle.
  13. I need to repack the rear axle bearings on my '50 Dodge Wayfarer. Once I remove the brake drum, what's involved in removing the back plate and, once removed, will the axle just pull out? Any special precautions that need to be taken to assure that the axle will slide back into place? If you've done this, I'd sure appreciate you helping me to establish my "learning curve". Thanks!
  14. I had major carb problems with my '50 Dodge Wayfarer. Finally sent it off to www.carburetorexchange.com and they professionally rebuilt it. Came back looking like new and all I had to do was bolt it back on and hook it up. Only thing I had to adjust was the idle (in fact, they told me not to try and adjust anything else as it had been pre-set before shipping. Cost about $175. But was it ever worth it! Car ran file. Still does almost 2 years later. I did install a fuel filter between the fuel pump & carb. Would advise this. Good luck! I once owned a Windsor of your vintage but that wa
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