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kghia

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Posts posted by kghia

  1. I was always a VW fan growing up because our family had them.  I read a lot and came across the Alken in the R&T article and some books.  I had never seen one so I was always on the lookout.  I came across 4 in total.  I just liked the lines and wanted to save one as a testament to American vision, design and risking to be different.  The articles talk of investing $50k.  Maybe 20 bodies were made?  Too expensive for the time but Fiberglass was new and an extension of early coach work type constuction, but with new materials. 

  2. Thank you!

     

    I have researched this car for 35 years and you have provided some documents I have never seen

     

    Alan and Kennth White formed the Alken corporation.  Alken came rom joining their names!

     

    Just fantastic history and many photos there are of my exact car. 

  3. Hi

     

    A friend pointed me to this conversion where you expressed some questions. 

     

    The Alken is my car.  The engine is a 1600N.   I would guess a 4 cam Carrara motor is 150k plus alone.  

     

    There were several car companies that created bodies in the 50s using the new technology of fiberglass.   Forgotten Fiberglass is the best resource of data on the variety of cars designed.   The Alken was one of these.  

     

    I have a copy of the original patent of the Alken.  I worked with VolksWorld Magazine from Europe to create an 8 page spread on the car and its history in their Nov 2018 issues with many more details.   My Alken was used for the Nov 1958 R&T road test on the Alken (60 years to the month it was back in print). 

     

    Thanks for the interest

     

     

     

     

     

     

    5872971D-A48F-4FE7-BBDB-588CD81A78ED.png

  4. I am very disappointed too. I would just like to know why this newer 04 Class was ever started in the first place. I saw nothing wrong with all these cars being in the Production Class with other cars of the same years. It just opens a can of worms.

    I am also disappointed , just stop picking and choosing and set standard rules for classes and follow them. I prefer to see cars of the same era together. It also builds knowledge between brands (who you are parked next to). This topic waffles all around based upon personal preference instead of simple rules to follow. Why bother going to Hershey if it is just a Mopar show or VW show. But if you set it up that way all mfg should be separate and park them alphabetically. Good luck in the brass era , everyone would have their own class. The AACA needs general rules and not make and mark specific rules, seems very biased from lots of angles when done this way.

  5. Still uncovering what parts were used for this 1958 Fiberglass car. I think I have solved everything except for the cable door pulls.

    A cable runs from the door latch in the front, suicide doors, to a pulley, then out the door panel, through a rubber tube, then is secured at the front.

    There is a channel that anchors on the door panel (shown in the two pictures) on both ends of the strap (they look the same) then a decorative chromed cover slides over the mounting channel so you can not see the mounting plate. The rubber tube/hose then was covered with matching interior fabric.

    The anchor points and covers look big enough that this could have been a rope that runs across the back of a seat. All of the parts so far have been late 40s to mid 50s parts for the fiberglass car so this is likely from the same era. Since the chassis is VW, the windshield is from a 52-55 Ford Consul Zephr, and the hood/trunk latches were 356, I wouldn't rule out foreign makes.

    Thanks for any help you can provide.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]169720[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]169721[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]169722[/ATTACH]

    I think these are from a 51 Ford Rear seat. Does anyone have any photos to determine what type of model Ford?

  6. Look like robe rail ends to me. The type that screws to the back of a front seat.

    agree, I found some on ebay that looked close that were listed to be from the 40s and early 50s but they are not a direct match yet. I am getting warm. The first was listed as a 52-53 Mercury and the second a 42-48 Chevy. Either of these might work although they are not exact. While the descriptions were different they look the same??? Can anyone verify what model Chevy or Mercury these were one?

    Mine seem to look a little more modern.

    post-31760-143139344592_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-14313934459_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-143139344595_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-143141715816_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-143141715819_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-143141715821_thumb.jpg

  7. Still uncovering what parts were used for this 1958 Fiberglass car. I think I have solved everything except for the cable door pulls.

    A cable runs from the door latch in the front, suicide doors, to a pulley, then out the door panel, through a rubber tube, then is secured at the front.

    There is a channel that anchors on the door panel (shown in the two pictures) on both ends of the strap (they look the same) then a decorative chromed cover slides over the mounting channel so you can not see the mounting plate. The rubber tube/hose then was covered with matching interior fabric.

    The anchor points and covers look big enough that this could have been a rope that runs across the back of a seat. All of the parts so far have been late 40s to mid 50s parts for the fiberglass car so this is likely from the same era. Since the chassis is VW, the windshield is from a 52-55 Ford Consul Zephr, and the hood/trunk latches were 356, I wouldn't rule out foreign makes.

    Thanks for any help you can provide.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]169720[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]169721[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]169722[/ATTACH]

    I saw two postings on ebay for early/mid 50s Chevy and Mercury rear seat pulls that look very close so I am about convinced this is a rear seat pull.

  8. Still uncovering what parts were used for this 1958 Fiberglass car. I think I have solved everything except for the cable door pulls.

    A cable runs from the door latch in the front, suicide doors, to a pulley, then out the door panel, through a rubber tube, then is secured at the front.

    There is a channel that anchors on the door panel (shown in the two pictures) on both ends of the strap (they look the same) then a decorative chromed cover slides over the mounting channel so you can not see the mounting plate. The rubber tube/hose then was covered with matching interior fabric.

    The anchor points and covers look big enough that this could have been a rope that runs across the back of a seat. All of the parts so far have been late 40s to mid 50s parts for the fiberglass car so this is likely from the same era. Since the chassis is VW, the windshield is from a 52-55 Ford Consul Zephr, and the hood/trunk latches were 356, I wouldn't rule out foreign makes.

    Thanks for any help you can provide.

    post-31760-143139311817_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-143139311811_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-143139311815_thumb.jpg

  9. Hello,

    I am restoring a 58 fiberglass car. These pictures are of the rear latch. The front latch was missing but it uses a similar style tongue with a cable release. The cable release on the rear was replaced with a brazed on stick. They might have used the same exact latch and just made new mounting hardware to get it to work. In the last picture I took the latch out of the sheet metal mount that was made to hold it in the body.

    The door hinges are 55-57 Chevy and the latches and striker 55 T-bird. They were using easy to find 50s parts but this looks like an older style latch.

    I need one more and would like to find one in better condition.

    Any help is appreciated.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]167642[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]167643[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]167644[/ATTACH]

    Hood latch solved after putting "latch" into ebay motors, vintage parts, and looking through about 5000 latches. It is a Porsche 356, 356A rear deck lid latch.

  10. OK, no luck with the latch yet.

    How about help with the door pull strap. They used a cable in the door pull to run down to the latch. This could be a rear seat grab strap. The ends were nice because the chromed cap slides over the base so that the screws do not show. The ones I have seen have a visible screw that anchors a cable.

    In the pictures below you can see the cable installed and then two close ups of the cap and base that it slid off.

    post-31760-143139305652_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-143139305644_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-143139305647_thumb.jpg

  11. That was a good tip. You got me thinking of fender beading/welting. That must be what it was. This company has a chrome over rubber that I am going to try. It is 3/16. When I looked at mine it was aluminum, maybe easier to shape. I'll have to see if this can follow the bends. Thanks again.

    Fender Welting, Chrome (50 ft) - gtrestoration.com

  12. Hello,

    I am restoring a 58 fiberglass car. These pictures are of the rear latch. The front latch was missing but it uses a similar style tongue with a cable release. The cable release on the rear was replaced with a brazed on stick. They might have used the same exact latch and just made new mounting hardware to get it to work. In the last picture I took the latch out of the sheet metal mount that was made to hold it in the body.

    The door hinges are 55-57 Chevy and the latches and striker 55 T-bird. They were using easy to find 50s parts but this looks like an older style latch.

    I need one more and would like to find one in better condition.

    Any help is appreciated.

    post-31760-143139296594_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-143139296584_thumb.jpg

    post-31760-14313929659_thumb.jpg

  13. Very nice Sonett you have! If you ever consider selling / trading it I would sincerely be interested.

    I have a 4k orig mile 1973 Sonett III in my house for display, I drove it daily and drove it in there.

    I should stop over. We live in Hudson and our 1974 Sonett III has 43K miles now. My son drives it about once a week. Nice all original car.

    I'd like to have a photo of your wipers to see what ours should look like. We have two non-matching ones and we are not sure which one is correct.

  14. whildwhun,

    I have an original Peerless model 56 service manual for all Peerless engines series one through five. There are full page schematics of each of the engines showing the changes.Your 1915 should be the same as the series one Peerless engine that was available in Nov. 1915 and called the 1916 model. I have duplicated the manual,(over 100 pages ) and it is bound in a hard cover. My cost is $60, I only had a few printed ( not much of a demand for them) but the information is valuable. If you like I would be glad to make copies of the schematics so you can determine if these engines are indeed the same. I would like to find someone that has a 1917 or 1918 Hirshell-Spillman engine and see if they made the same changes that Peerless made. If they did it would prove that Peerless and Hirshell-Spillman were working together on this engine and made the same improvements. Let me know if I can be of any help.

    Richard H. Lichtfeld peerless19@charter.net

    Enjoyed the information here. Your engine my be the same style one that my brother has in his 1915 Standard 8. We spent the past weekend getting the engine started and now are working on the carb.

    Do you still have more copies of the engine manual?

    The car came with some information that indicated the engine was made in Pittsburgh by the "Pittsburgh Model Engine Company". This car sat in their lobby for years with the poster he got that explained that the engine in the 1915 Standard 8 was built in the same building that the Rockwell company was in.

  15. Sold

    Hi,

    I have a very original 62 Mini. It is a real survivor with no rust and it runs great.

    Below is a link to some better pictures and the Heritage certificate. It has a 1963 Ohio, Title. It is a 62 becasue it has the seat belt anchor point high on the A-pillar. This has the standard 850 cc engine. Most of the paint and interior are original.

    You can email me if interested at jeff@karmannghias.org

    Mini

    IMG00557-20110701-2028.jpg

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