NikeAjax

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About NikeAjax

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    If'n it's broke I kin prolly fixit!
  1. Now I'm confused as I can't remember if I changed out the cam when I rebuilt my motor... Can I just swap the gears at the end of the shafts if the new one doesn't work: is there a way to ID the gear to tell what is what? Thanks for the heads up, Jaybird
  2. Okay, here's the conversation I had: [TABLE=width: 100%] <tbody>[TR] [TD=colspan: 2][TABLE=width: 100%] <tbody>[TR] [TD=width: 100%][/TD] [TD=class: print_email_cell] [TABLE] <tbody>[TR] [TD=class: print_cell][/TD] [TD=class: email_cell][/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=colspan: 2] History:[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=colspan: 2] [TABLE=width: 100%] <tbody>[TR] [TD] [Robbie] Hello, I'm with the StreetSideAuto.com sales and technical assistance department, can I answer any questions about the product you're looking at? [Visitor] So, this will drop right in to my 322? [Robbie] 8524 msd right? [Visitor] Um, I think so? [Robbie] ok let me check the application on that product for you [Robbie] this distributor fits the 1953-1956 buick 5.3 or 322 engine [Visitor] Excellent! What does the dist cap look like, I really HATE the one in the image... [Robbie] [Visitor] Does it come in black at least? [Robbie] it will come with the red cap [Visitor] Oh, and where can I get replacement caps, like for when that one wears out? [Robbie] however if you would like to change to the black cap you could also order part number 84333 [Robbie] http://www.streetsideauto.com/search.asp?keywords=84333 here is the black cap for that distributor [Visitor] Hmmm, that link didn't show an image, but does it look like the red one only black then? [Robbie] [Robbie] here is the image from MSD [Visitor] Roger that, thanks buddy! [Robbie] not a problem [Robbie] Is there anything else I can help you with today? [Visitor] yeah, do I HAVE to use that funny cap that says MSD? [Robbie] all of the ones from MSD are going to have their logo on it if you wanted to switch it out for one from a parts store that was just black you could do that as long as it was the same style [Visitor] Oh, and where does that pig-tail go? [Visitor] Also, ballasted, or unballasted coil? [Robbie] checking now [Robbie] the pig tail is used to connect to the coil, your ground, and the ignition switch [Robbie] and if you are running an MSD box it can be included as well [Robbie] file:///C:/Users/rguier/Downloads/8524.pdf here is the pdf for installation [Visitor] Can you clarify "MSD box"? Sorry, I don't understand? [Robbie] the msd box is the ignition control box for racing appliactions if this is a factory style ignition then you will not need the box [Robbie] on the coil they show the 8202 http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/msd-coil-blaster-2-8202/ it does not need a ballast unless you are running points ignition which this distributor does not have so you will not need a ballast [Visitor] OK, thank you for your help: I'm sure other Buick people will getting in touch with you: have a good day and uneventful-day... take it easy! [Robbie] you are welcome and thank you you as well[/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]
  3. Hey gang, has anyone tried/used this? http://www.streetsideauto.com/c/ignition-electrical/distributors/v/1956-buick-century-53l-322-cid/ Can I really just drop the danged thing in? The bushings are shot on my stock distributor, and was lookin' 'round an' saw that thing. The shaft slops around so much that it's been cutting into the cap terminals; makes the car not want to run, ya know? Jaybird
  4. What I did was find a really fine spring and put it between the two end terminals. It doesn't dim, but I do have dash-lights! Taking the switch apart is a bit tricky as there is a spring loaded stud, well at least on my 1956, and the end caps will shoot off and fly across the room, perhaps whoever buys my house after I'm dead will find the one I lost. I found that taking it apart in something like a shoebox helps. Putting it back together is kind of a pain, but it can be done: I used a strip of index card that I taped down on either side of body/casing, this holds the spring loaded indexer-dingus-thingy in place while you hold/screw down the cover back on. Before you tighten the screws, slip the strip of paper out. I hope that was maybe a little help if not too confusing:confused: Jaybird
  5. Yep, I put mine on the hump of the frame on my '56, just make sure you run a good piece of wire to it, nothing too wimpy, 'cuase it's a long way back there, an' ya don't wanna draw too much current which will prematurely wear out your nice new pump... Jaybird
  6. If you had a 1956, you know that because of the phlemuktomozer rod, and the pentabulator flange connect there too... what, you don't beleeeeive me! Jaybird
  7. Paul, if you're leaning on the fender looking in, it's the #2 bolt, or second in from the right:) Jaybird
  8. Gosh guys, check this out: http://vimeo.com/53802142 It's very humbling being a fine artist and seeing someone do this from scratch: it takes some really high "candle power" to figure that out! Jaybird
  9. George, reach in under the dash and feel around until you're certain you have the switch: there will be a stud on there, 'bout in the middle if I 'member right, with your other hand, pull the knob out for the lights, then, and only then depress the stud, at which point the knob will come right out. Next, take a needle-nose pliers, or if you've got a REALLY-wide slot-tip screw driver, put it down the hole you've just removed the knob from, and unscrew, the ah-um, what the heck do ya call that anyway! Turn, turn, turn, and turn some more, note, be careful when you put them back, as lining it back up can be tricky... Are you going to rebuild the switch yourself? I did, I just used a fine spring in place of the coiled wire for the rheostat-dingus. WARNING: There is a spring loaded mechanism, the back half, with a loaded-rod; these can and will shoot across the room, get sucked into a time and space-vortex, and wind up on Mars, in a neat pile--in other word, it's a very simple thing to loose those parts forever!!!!! The rod is loaded laterally, so they will shoot in opposite directions, one will more likely than not land in your lap;), but wave bye-bye to the other unless you're in a clean-room... Oh, so pull the sucker apart in a box, or better yet, a pillow-case--really! Jaybird
  10. Paul, I can't help but wonder if you have the wrong angle-of-attack? Perhaps try moving the end of the tube more laterally. Also, put a light under the car, and with a mirror, see if you can spot where it's hanging-up. I hope that was some help? Jaybird
  11. Yeah, a custom job is the only way to go: I had one made for my '56. If you want to pull a trailer, you should seriously consider upgrading your braking-system, as the brakes on these cars are merely adequate, which you'd know/quickly discover if you'd ever taken your car on a steep hill. The conversation in my head at the time was something like this, "Uh-oh... oh-(expletive-deleted)...holy-(expletive-deleted)..." at that point I was using both feet trying to stop, then that smell, you know the one, "YAHOOO--IT STOPPED!(barely!)" You never know what the road is going to do... Just something to think about... Jaybird
  12. Well, the drama continues: I got there this morning and he told me I needed the freakin' rod that's still connected to the brake peddle--DOH! He also told me that if I still had drums up front, this factory unit would be adequate, but still not great: I converted it to disc a while back. The "long and short of it" is that I'm going to have a custom unit made, with a diaphragm-booster and a one-inch-plus piston. I know there are some who feel that the drums are good enough: they're not good enough for what I intend to do with my car. I'm going to pull a trailer with my car and I need the car to stop when I want it to stop. I asked him to get me a parts-breakdown when he's done, as I'm sure there are a few people out there who'd rather not pay an arm and a leg for for a power brake unit, if they can indeed find one at all for sale. More later for sure, Jaybird
  13. One of my fave ways to get oil pressure is to pull the distributor, and with a long slot tip screw driver shaft in a drill, put it down the bore of the distributor, then turn away: you'll know you have oil pressure when it slows down... Jaybird
  14. Sorry, I meant leather piston/pump-cup, not diaphragm... I've got vintage scuba gear on the brain... Jaybird
  15. Righty-o! A fast way to get oil into the gallies is to pull the spark plugs and crank it for a while:this is the quick and dirty method! Also you may want to put a few drops down the bores, again with the sparks out... Jaybird