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Everything posted by GeorgeCagle

  1. I know I don't have a chance of finding an original tank. All of the extra ones probable went toward the war effort in WWII. As I said earlier, my tank is not original but it fits. It had General Truck Sales, Nashville, TN stenciled on it and according to the internet that place closed down years ago. So, no chance of finding out what my tank is. Thanks for letting me know that the '41 Chevy will fit. I see that the Tanks Inc. site has one in stainless but it is a little deeper. I will investigate that and see if I have room. Thank you!
  2. Greetings all, my gas tank has a fine powered rust that is forming and blocking the fuel outlet. I have taken the tank off a couple of times and cleaned it. This works for about a year then it happens again. My tank is not the original but fits very well. I would like to replace it rather than use some type of liner that might fail in the future. The car is a 4-door Dictator. What other tanks will fit close to original? Thanks!
  3. Here are a couple of pics of David's car, taken at our IDYSD tour back in September.
  4. It can only go in about 1 1/2 inch, so can't get lost. If it is there you should be able to get it with a small piece of wire (paper clip) with a hook on the end of it.
  5. Also, could it have been assembled backwards? Check and see if the spring is still inside the block.
  6. David, You should have a spring similar to the picture I have attached. My 37 uses a plunger and spring. I have an extra spring but I don't think it would be correct for your engine. Check with a good machine shop to see if they can get one for your engine.
  7. I put a 245 in my '37 Dictator. It bolted up to the '37 overdrive transmission with no trouble and I also used the '37 flywheel and clutch.
  8. Thanks for the responses. I love the stainless strips on the running boards. I have never seen that before. Anyway, I am glad that Studebaker switched to non-painted running boards. I don't thing that paint would have held up very well over rubber in a high wear area like that.
  9. According to "The Inside Story of 1937 Studebakers", "The tremendously strong steel running boards, rubber mat and all, match the body color". I have never seen a '37 Studebaker with painted running boards. All of the illustrations in "The Inside Story" show painted running boards. When did Studebaker decide to go to black running boards? My copy of the book is 4829F. Does anyone have a later version which shows black running boards? Is there any documentation from Studebaker that says to leave the running boards black?
  10. When I rebuilt the engine in my '37 I had the same problem. My dad told me to pack the oil pump with Vaseline. That primed the pump and it dissolves into the oil as it gets warm.
  11. We had a great time yesterday. There were six Studebakers in attendance: a '27 Commander, '37 Dictator, '55 Commander, '55 President, '57 Silver Hawk, and a '63 Avanti. It was overcase and there were some rain showers but that did not slow us down. There were a lot of folks stopping to look at the cars, especially at the Russel Erskine Hotel.
  12. Greetings Don, Does the Coupe Express use the same seat as the Dictator 4-Door? If it does I can send you some pictures of how my seat mounts. George
  13. We are just a few days away from International Drive Your Studebaker Day. Here in North Alabama we will be touring around the Huntsville area, making stops at the Space and Rocket Center, Huntsville Depot Museum, and the Russel Erskine Hotel. What are the rest of you all planning?
  14. The '37 uses all flat glass so it is easy to get these made at a local auto glass shop. Do you have an old door glass to use as a pattern? I believe that I paid about $20 per window.
  15. Here is a simple wiring diagram that might help:
  16. Is the generator 8v? You said earlier that you were using an 8v battery, so if the gererator is 6v it will not keep the battery charged. Did you try hooking up the alternator straight to the amp gauge? If so, did the amp gauge show a positive charge?
  17. Yes, it goes direct to the ampmeter. I removed the regulator and stored it with the generator in case I ever want to convert back. When I first start the car I rev it to about 1000 rmp and it starts charging. The amp gauge will show about 15 amps. Once driving and fully charged up the gauge drops back down closer to 0.
  18. Greetings, my '37 Studebaker is 6 volt, pos ground and I have a 6v alternator (one wire). When I replaced the generator I also removed the voltage regulator. You have to rev it up a little to get it to start charging at idle. I am not sure why you still have the external regulator. This could be causing problems. Does your amp gauge show that the battery is charging?
  19. I have a rust problem in my gas tank on the '37 Studebaker. It caused my fuel filter to stop up a few weeks ago. I pulled the tank and using a water hose I removed about a pint of what looked like coffee grounds. The tank is now full of a molasses bath mixture and I will let it soak for a few days. I have used the molasses bath for derusting many times and it works great. I will use a rust converter later and then plan to keep the tank full so rust will not easily reform. I also replaced the "rubber" fuel lines on my TR3A to make it more compatible with this cheap gas we now have.
  20. The driver's side axle on my '37 Dictator had a few boogered threads on it's end. I recently found an NOS axel and decided to sway them today. I pulled the drum, unhooked the brake line and emergency brake cable, and removed the backing plate from the axle housing. The axle is held in place by it's bearing race. My "National Service Data" guide is real descriptive at this point. It says "remove axle". The bearing race fits flush inside the housing and is very tight. I though of a couple of ways to remove it that might work. One was to put the washer and nut back on the end of the axle and then hammer on it from the housing side. The other idea I had was to put the drum back on the axle and then hammer on it to try and remove the axle. After studying the problem for awhile I decided that neither of these methods was going to work, and would probable cause more problems. I finally decided to drive down to our local parts store. It is an old fashioned parts place (not a chain) run by an old guy who knows cars. I asked him if there was some type of puller that would remove a spicer axle. He said that if there was, he didn't have one, but he did tell me to do the following: Put the drum back on the axle, along with the nut and washer. Connect one end of a large chain to one of the lugs and secure it with a lugnut. I have a 10 ft log chain and it was perfect for this part. Stand about 5 ft from the axle and hold the chain with both hands. There needs to be a foot or two of slack in the chain. In a circular motion, move toward the axle then rapidly pull away from it, causing the chain to jerk against the drum. After 5 or 6 jerks, I felt behind the drum and could tell that the race had moved about half way out of the housing. At this point I unhooked the chain and connected it a lug on the opposite side of the drum. I jerked the chain one more time and the axle was free. So, thanks to an old parts guy I now know a simple trick for removing an axle and I didn't have to hammer on any parts.
  21. I had mine rebuilt by for my '37 Studebaker by Then and Now Automotive (www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive ). It came back better than new. Even the screws and washers that hold it together looked new. I have put about 500 miles on it and it works great.
  22. I had a similar problem on my 37 Dictator. The closest sending unit that I could find to fit my car was from JC Whitney and it was a 0-90 ohm unit. This unit is universal and fully adjustable. As the unit is shipped, 0 ohm would register full on my gauge, but the float was in the empty position. What I really needed was a 90-0 ohm sending unit. The variable resistor on the sending unit is held on by two screws, so it was a simple matter to remove the resistor and turn it 180 degrees and reattach it. I installed it in 2003 and it is still working. Good luck.
  23. Thanks for the heads up Don. I have been looking ever since your post and finally found a copy. The article is great and there are lots of pictures. I'd really like to have the President coupe on the back cover! George
  24. My NOS mechanical fuel pump died on my '37 Dictator. It looks like the new gas did not work well with the old rubber parts. I have installed a 6-volt Airtex electric pump (E8011) from Advance Auto Parts as a backup. It is now the main pump until I can find another mechanical pump (I am looking for a dual-action this time). The Airtex is located on the frame, just above the gas tank. I have a filter inline before the pump, and a pressure regulator just after it. All rubber lines are new and gas flows freely. I have bypassed the mechanical pump. The wiring harness is also new and the pump is wired to the key switch. My problem is that I am now on my third electric pump (in about 5 months). I have only driven the car about 10 miles total (newly rebuilt flathead 6), so I doubt that I have pumped a gallon of gas yet. How/Why do these pumps quit working so quickly? The car is 6-volt, positive ground. The pump is 6-volt. Is there anything inside that the new gas would damage? Is there a better pump that I should be using? Thanks!
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