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Posts posted by MikeWilliamsUK

  1. Hi Wayne,

    So far as I know Skip still supplies the coils. You could convert it the way you describe, but the advantage of Skip's is that they are hidden inside the original housing, so are very neat.

    I went 12 volt because the previous owner had already started the job, but most people seem to say they run well on 6 volt, so why do you want to change.


    P.S. Would be nice to correspond off-line, since you may be close by!

  2. My 1938 Jensen with Zephyr engine has been converted to 12 volt, using Skip's coils and ballast resistor. All seems to be OK. However, the original 6 volt Ballasts were wired in parallel, and with two wires going forward - one to each coil. Using the single 1960s ballast supplied by Skip with the coils, means there is a single point of failure in the ballast itself and the wiring from there to the condersors. Since everything else in the ignition circuit is duplicated this seems a pity.

    Has anyone used Skip's coils with the original ballasts?



    (in the UK and sometimes feel out of touch even with fantastic support from Colin Spong!)

  3. Julian,

    They do come up on E-Bay from time to time, and you can get it rebuilt in the UK by Nordian (if Pete is still trading), Belcher (who are rebuilding one for a Ford axle in a friend's Jensen at the moment), or maybe Colin Spong would rebuild it if you asked him nicely!

    When you say it is all missing, check that you don't still have the speedo gearbox or the valve, as they are not cheap and you don't want to buy them if you already have them.

  4. I've waited for a response to this from others more knowledgeable tham myself - but none has come.

    Does the LZOC not have an archivist that records this sort of data? I just assumed that all clubs did this, starting with a list of all the chassis numbers made and adding what is known of the cars, including sightings, auction entries, members etc.

    Seriously - is this not already being done?


    (No Zephyr, but a Zephyr-engined British Jensen).

  5. Pete,

    Thank you for all your efforts getting the UK Zephyr community together. It was a great day, I learned a lot too, even though I don't have a "real" Zephyr.

    The contrast between UK and USA styling of the period was interesting!

    Hope you had a good trip back home - it was a long way in temperatures that must have been pushing 30 degrees.


  6. I need a new set of cylinder head studs. The last ones I bought were stainless and have stretched, so I want standard studs this time.

    I understand there are four different lengths of studs used on Ford V8s (which I assume use the same studs), so can anyone please tell me the part numbers or lengths and quantities of each for the Zephyr? The car is 1938, but with cast iron heads.

    Can somebody also please recommend a parts list, manual or whatever that lists this sort of information? and where I can buy one?


  7. I have been told that my car (1938 British Jensen fitted with Zephyr engine from new) was advertised for sale in Motor Sports World for February 1952. I’ve tried all the UK dealers and been watching e-bay for several months, without success.

    Please does anyone know a US dealer in old motoring magazines I could try? I believe it was a weekly mag and I don’t know what issue it was in, but they don’t seem to fetch a lot of money, so I’d be happy to buy all four to get the right one.



  8. Pete,

    Looks like not many UK owners read these pages. Have you thought about contacting them directly? Details in the LZOC handbook.

    I understand the date clashes with the two-day hot rod show at Old Warden. Hot Rods are not my thing, but a second show less than 20 miles away may reduce the numbers at Knebworth.


  9. From time to time there is discussion on here about muli-carb setups and other speed mods, so I'm sorry to bring it up again, but the situation changes all the time and I understand that Kearney Foundry no longer make manifolds for Zephyrs. Via a Ford discussion site I came across this chap:


    At $550 for a dual manifold they seem too cheap, so is there a catch? Does anyone have experience of them please? It’s the “Lincoln V12 Single Plane 2 Carb Manifold” I’m looking at, which hopefully will fit two of the original 3-bolt Zeniths.

    Dave Cole gave an excellent summary of speed parts in the LZOC magazine for January 2000 and these were not mentioned, so perhaps they are new?



  10. Hi Pete,

    I hope my Jensen may count as half a Zephyr (Zephyr engine and gearbox!), and that date seems to be free at the moment. It is a great show, so please pencil us in for the Sunday and I'll work over the next few weeks in persuading Denise that we should go. Last time she was in the car she swore never to get in it again, but I'm talking her around, and so is Adrian Spong!

    Are you in touch with the owner of the V12 Brough? I believe it lives in Wales, but it would be great to see that there too. I don't currently know of any roadworthy V12 Atalantas in the UK.


  11. Anyone know how to feed back information back to these Wikipikid.. thingy people?

    Apart from the comments about engine failure which could be followed by a comment about modern oil pumps etc solving the problems, they also state that:

    "The Zephyr V12 was also used by Allard, Atalanta, and Brough Superior in England.".

    Well, Allard I believe made only one V12 car as all their others at that time used the Ford V8, Brough also made only one V12 as his others were Hudson 6 or 8 powered, but if they are including one-offs then they have omitted Jensen. OK, they too only made one car with the V12, but as its my car I'd like to put the record straight!

    But I can't see how you contact them. Any suggestions, please?


  12. I have an early crank with core plugs, two of which have fallen out since an engine rebuild - with resultant lack of oil pressure and potential damage. Is there a better way of fixing them in?

    The engine is back together now, so this is for "next time", but has anyone tapped the holes and used threaded plugs?

  13. Hi Peter,

    I've only just picked up that you are in the UK, but now found you in the LZOC list.

    With perhaps half a dozen of us with Zephyrs in the UK we can sometimes feel a bit isolated, even with our local Zephyr expert just down the road in Romford! I'm no expert, but drop me a PM if you'd like to chat.


  14. Thanks for that Mims.

    I would say 'no' - no problem cranking when hot, but, when it starts to tighten up and make the noise I shut off and have not dared crank it over at that point. When it cools it cranks and starts fine.

    Had one recent thought. The temperature stays down when running, but when I stop for fuel and turn off it rises quite a lot. When I restart I'd expect the water pumps to then drag the temperature back down, but they don't and that's when it starts to rise out of control. The pumps were supposed to have been new in 1982, but I wonder whether some of Skip's hign volume pumps would help the problem. Anyone had experience of them?

    Second thing is that the radiator is total loss type with no catch tank and after a run it can need over a gallon to bring it back to the level - its all gone down the overflow. Is there a catch tank available which suits these cars and doesn't look too modern?

  15. Hi Peecher,

    Its a problem I've had for some time now. Engine starts on the button and runs beautifully. Temperature starts to build quite easily and once it starts it gets hot quickly and starts a heavy screeching noise - I switch off quick. When first built it did this after about 5 minutes of running in the garage, but now it will run on the road about 15 miles if careful. Obviously I turn off before the noise starts when I can. The car has now done about 100 miles and in addition maybe 20 hours running on tickover in the garage.

    I am wondering whether the alloy pistons expand and stick in the bores if the clearances are not sufficient. When you say domed pistone are 'normal' do you mean all Zephyrs have them as standard? I am wondering whether standard pistons would be better than these alloy ones.

    I am not aware that the heads have been shaved but I know the block has been faced - how much I don't know.

    It may be that more and more miles will gradually wear it in, but I am worried about damaging the engine. What do you think?


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