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Posts posted by Ken/Alabama

  1. Dave, it’ll come out with some persuasion.  Not one of the easiest task I’ve done . I’m assuming you have also removed the door lock cylinder from the door. Also remove the mechanism from the inside door handle . It takes some pushing and pulling to get it out. 

  2. On 7/10/2020 at 9:18 AM, Cokekid said:



    The First engine is from a 47 Linc Zephyr and the Second is from a 48 Linc Cont.


    After  reading  your question I went back out to take a look at both engines and to my surprise I found another problem. I noticed that the front engine covers were different as shown in the two photos.

    I never took notice of which cover came off which engine. As you can see, there is a difference around the sides when I install a gasket on them.


    The gaskets came in a kit that I bought at Hersey last year and all the thin gaskets will only fit one of the covers.


    I am now totally confused as to why the one cover is slightly wider then the other.







    The top cover ,the wider one is from a V8 Ford. The narrow one is correct for the V12

  3. On 7/11/2020 at 3:09 PM, Cokekid said:

    I just went through removing the Damper and I have read that it should be dismantled and cleaned. I was wondering should I do this as I probably never have it out and sitting on the bench.


    Has anyone done this.



    Yep! I’ve done a couple of them.  



  4. 16 hours ago, abelincoln said:

    Thanks guys, here is the plan.  I contacted H&H flatheads who can have Ross make some pistons for the Lincoln V-12, but they are quite costly.  A second e-mail from H&H noted that the Hogan NZ heads do not have polished chambers, so I should feel free to grind in the offending area.  This sounds good to me.  Closer inspection finds a few casting flashings in the the chambers, so I plan to de-burr and polish with increasingly fine sand paper.  Mean time, we'll pull the pan.  I've got a Moroso dip stick that needs a welded bung, in the lower pan and I suspect the rear main oil drain pipe is loose, leading to low oil pressure.  With any luck, will be running again by end of summer.


    So how does the rear main drain pipe affect oil pressure??  My 1940 V8 doesn’t even have one 

  5. 15 hours ago, Antykas said:

    Thanks, what year(s) flathead has the same bolt pattern as the 47 Lincoln transmission & will my input shaft of the transmission fit the flathead. The front mounts are the least of my worry, just looking to make it as painless as I can if I find the right engine. I can always re-drill the crank on the Olds engine I have. Looking at options. It had a 59 Olds, I have a 63 olds.

     32-48 is a direct bolt up , input shafts are the same.  The later 49-53 flathead will work also if you use the truck or Mercury bell housing and clutch disc.  

  6. Even though the glove box pulls and the ash tray pulls look a like the mounting holes are spaced different. The wiper bezel is threaded with a nut on the underside. You’ll need to remove it to get it all back together. The shaft has a spring on it so when you removed the knob the shaft fell through.  To remove the door handles simply push in on the door panel at the old escutcheon and it will expose the base of the handle , rotate the handle and you’ll see a pin, drive the pin out with a drift or similar tool and the handle will slide off the square shaft. 

    • Thanks 1
  7. On 3/25/2020 at 11:13 PM, 40ZephSedan said:

    Does anyone know of a source for the rubber only on the center crossmember exhaust hanger brackets (#5292-A)?  Two new rubber/metal assemblies are fairly expensive; I have the metal if I can just buy the 2 rubber isolators separately.



    I’ve had NOS ones and they will separate, probably because they are now 80 years old. I put NOS ones on my 39 and they lasted no time before they came apart. I clamped them back together and welded a piece of steel to tie the pieces together. I know it kinda defeats the purpose of the rubber but at least they still holding up. The originals were vulcanized and I know of no one that can redo them. Same with the muffler bracket.  Had a nos one and it let go first.  

  8. Done a little investigating. I have an empty V8 block on the engine stand. I placed the idler gear and cover on and the gear should be running in the center.  On the V8 , pre 49 blocks, the idler gear will not go on the cover wrong because the cover has a hump cast into it to prevent that.  I thought I had a V12 cover laying around but couldn’t find it. Can’t remember if the V12 cover has that cast in hump or not . Maybe someone here has one to look at. The covers are different between the V12 & V8 except for the 36-37 V12. The V12 cover will have a part number with an 86H prefix.  



  9. On 3/24/2020 at 2:52 PM, zephyrdave said:

    Before I take the engine out, I took the pump off and looked up the hole. I noticed that the idler gear did not seem to be in the right place, it looks like it is off to one side of the hole towards the rear of the engine. I turned the engine over by hand and the idler gear did not move. Went to the internet of course to research. Found a V8 ford forum where someone had a new rebuild and no oil pressure. They took the engine out and found that the idler gear was installed upside down so no gear engagement. I'm sure that's what's going on here. If you can see in the pic the gear is off to one side. I think ford V8 and lincoln V12 have a similar setup. The idler gear has a "snout" on one side. If it is installed upside down, it puts the gear out of alignment with the other gears.

    oil pump hole 37 007.jpg

    That looks like it could be your problem.  Can you turn the gear with a long screwdriver? That would tell you if it’s engaged with the cam. 

  10. Be very careful. The last thing you want to do is to break the pin that the pointer attaches to. They are very fragile. I’ve had good luck warming the housing where the cable attaches to free up frozen speedometer heads.  

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