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Posts posted by Ken/Alabama
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Does anyone have a copy of the article that was written several years ago about how to convert the V12 to a rope seal in the rear. The article gave the dimensions of the crankshaft and the part numbers of the seal retainers.
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Pan must be removed.
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On 7/10/2022 at 11:30 PM, 40ZephSedan said:
Your car and color are awesome- what a beauty. Do you know Al in Cinci, restoring Mickey Rooney's 1940 cabr? Same great color, same year, you guys may want to be comparing notes. My car will never be a points car but I am making progress and fortunate that most of the car was complete and orig. Orig owner parked it in 1950, widow left it in garage till we towed in home in 1971, so pretty unmolested. Columbia parts were in good condition, so I just cleaned up the brackets and tubing and reinstalled the original parts, just replacing the old red rubber with new hose. Clamps on the radius rod are round on bottom and trapezoid on top to contain both tubes. Hope these pics help, hard to get good picks with so many things in the way. Let me know if you need more detail on a focused area you may need a better pic of, Paul
What a mess !
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The ignition switch is dirty .
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Same dimensions as the V8 Ford. Definitely not worth the cost of doing it. If the rear main bearing clearance is set on the tight side of the specs it won’t leak. Also use a stock 8 BA Ford oil pump. More than adequate.
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On 4/10/2022 at 7:35 PM, wem said:
From what I have read, and the way I drive my '39 is much like driving a truck with a 2 speed read end. Bring the car up to the speed that you would normally shift into the next gear (if there were one), about 35 - 40 mph, pull out the shift knob, then depress the clutch to make the shift. It's designed not to shift until the clutch is depressed. The same is true for downshifting (yes, the car needs to be in motion), but I usually shift out of overdrive around 5 - 10 mph.
I'd be interested if anyone out there feels differently about the above, but this technique has so far served me well, knock on wood. Enjoy the car. columbiatwospeedparts.com is wealth of information about the Columbia and it's proper maintenance.
I never operate the Columbia knob unless the clutch is push in first. I know that it’s not supposed to shift until the clutch is pushed but I’ve seen what it can do if it happens to shift under power. It leaves an ugly mess. Expensive too ! -
On 12/1/2021 at 9:25 AM, jord said:
Does anyone have spare door handles for my sedan? need minimum 3 but 1 will do.
Not sure if this is the right place to post this.
Thanks
Should have emailed me much sooner. I had a dozen or more but now they’re all gone. I have sold off all my 39 Zephyr parts.
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On 4/29/2022 at 11:14 AM, Ray500 said:
Check out H & H in California. Great flat head rebuilders!
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On 6/10/2022 at 10:10 AM, jord said:
I was going over some earlier post and noticed that you could possibly lose a lot of oil pressure if your clearance between rod and bushing is too great. My question is what tolerance is required? Mine falls straight in
Thanks
You can take the rod out and it won’t make any difference. The bushing is what gives you the oil pressure. The clearance between the rod and bushing makes zero difference.
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On 6/8/2022 at 1:33 PM, West Peterson said:
I have one, and was told to to drive it like a pre-selector. Push in, or pull out control knob, let off gas, push in clutch, let out clutch.
And you’ll crash your Columbia! Anytime you pull or push the overdrive cable make sure the clutch is pushed in until the shift is complete. Never activate the overdrive knob then push the clutch.
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Drain tube goes here.
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On 11/8/2021 at 9:02 PM, abelincoln said:
My understanding is Lincoln spindles are the same as Ford.
Not true.
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A Ford axle will work just fine. 42-48 Ford is the same length as your 48 Lincoln. I had NOS 39-41 Ford axles in my 39 Zephyr.
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Save yourself some headaches and take Mobileparts recommendation.
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I can rebuild your starter. I have an armature lathe and growler and other means of testing and rebuilding your starter and generator.
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Fit all the fender welting with holes or slots and mark each piece as to their location . Then remove the welting and paint it off the car. Same with fenders. Done it like this more than once. Have never added any flex agent to my paint. Never an issue in the last 25 years.
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Dave, it’ll come out with some persuasion. Not one of the easiest task I’ve done . I’m assuming you have also removed the door lock cylinder from the door. Also remove the mechanism from the inside door handle . It takes some pushing and pulling to get it out.
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I made a new shaft from clutch cross shaft and bushings. Same size as the Zephyr pedal shaft.
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That is correct
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On 7/10/2020 at 9:18 AM, Cokekid said:
Beltfed
The First engine is from a 47 Linc Zephyr and the Second is from a 48 Linc Cont.
After reading your question I went back out to take a look at both engines and to my surprise I found another problem. I noticed that the front engine covers were different as shown in the two photos.
I never took notice of which cover came off which engine. As you can see, there is a difference around the sides when I install a gasket on them.
The gaskets came in a kit that I bought at Hersey last year and all the thin gaskets will only fit one of the covers.
I am now totally confused as to why the one cover is slightly wider then the other.
Gerry
The top cover ,the wider one is from a V8 Ford. The narrow one is correct for the V12
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What year ??
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V-12 Generators with different mounting brackets???
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
The mounting bracket will have a part number. That will tell the story.