seasand77

Suggest you contact Georgia OCA chapter in Lawrenceville Ga and roll the membership. Most of us have Cutlass's anyway.

Contact "Moving My Car" 1-800-405-0914, ask for Carol. This is a broker that we use all the time. They have access to 1500 transport companies, and they contact all to find the lowest rate. It works.

I have a 1934 chevy in parts all over the shop. Does anyone know where I can get exploded Fisher Body drawings showing how this thing goes back together? I know I can get a cd, but I'm looking for a free internet site. Any help appreciated.

If you're really serious about a new husband, send a picture of the 442.

Glenn and other window Guru's.-I'm going to pull the window motors from my 71 Delta 88 Convertable. I think I'll need cutting templets for the rear windows. I plan on wedging the windows in the closed position until I'm ready to reinstall. Do you still have the templets, and do you have any recommedations for the wedges or their positioning? Thanks

What a great walk back in time. I worked at the Tech Center from 1959 to 1963, and It was a really super secret place. I started as a chauffer for the big wigs and eventually began driving test vehicles at the proving grounds in Milford Mich. We routinely purchased new competitors cars and blasted them out at the proving grounds before bringing them back to the Tech Center and then took them apart bolt by bolt. We even did the VW Beetle and hot Chrysler 300's. Fun Job. The Styling Center allowed us looks at cars that wouldn't be manufactured for four years, often times the final design was inspired by a guy in loafers, smoking a cigarette and piddling with a pen. It was then up to the engineers to make it work.

I tried to rebuild a carburator a couple of times, but I kept finding parts left over when I was done. I'd leave it to experience. It's a worth the $125.00 plus expense.

There are lots of newer cars with big horsepower, 5- 6 speed transmissions, and zero to 60 times in the 5-6 second range, but they can't be called muscle cars. So what really is a muscle car? I like this explaination: Muscle cars were driven by guys that were at least 18 years old in 1955, and loved to drag race cars on public streets. The cars were standard American production cars that came with engines and options that were intended to make the car accelerate faster from a stop light. Muscle cars disappeared when legislated enforcement and excessive insurance premiums forced them off public streets in your particular part of the country. The actual year they disappeared is not consistant all over the country. Therefore, the definition of a muscle car is simply an American car designed to accelerate rapidly on public streets, and driven by a guy that now sells insurance and reads this with bi-focals.

sorry, sold it already.

Rocketraider-Do you still have the templets I need to cut holes to get at the power window motors?

Here's a list of the cars on the way from our recent buying trip out West. Call for details.1964 Nova convert, 1965 and 1966 Fairlanes, 1966 Merc Maurader 428, 1969 Cadillac convert, 1965 Plymouth Satallite 318. These are all high quality, origional, rust free, low milage cars. Our specialty! Located in Roswell Ga 770-992-8801

Black color, interior, and top, 350/auto, air. Car being freshened up in our shop. Buy it now for less, or wait until we have finished and pay high dollar. Located in Roswell Ga 770-992-8801

Beautiful Black body, new black top and interior. Air, ps, pb, auto, rebuilt 350ci/260hp,and trans. Everything returned to origional correct status including trunk detail. $18,500. Located in Roswell Ga. 770-992-8801

Origional, beautiful, robin egg blue, 1948 Olds, rare Sedanette, 2nd repaint, very quiet, rebuilt flathead straight 8 and rebuilt hydamatic trans. almost perfect interior, New wide walls, replated grill, optional fog and spot lights,optional visor. Radio, heater, lights and guages all work. NOS steering wheel, owners and service manual. $9500.00. Located in Roswell Ga.

Sorry to say this, but if you're not already running a profitable repair business of some kind , this restoration thing will eat you alive. What I did was start buying good, clean, rust free, salable cars out West at Pomona, and shipping them into an area that didn't have these kinds of cars. I'd let Midas and local body and repair shops shops do the "farm out" work. When I was able to have a building with a lift where I could do work cheaper than sending it out, I would begin making the profit myself. The guys that do complete frame off restorations usually have a reputation built on years of dedicated, starving from one month to the next, work. It's not for the faint hearted. Look at 100k for just the infrastructure. Go to Pomona, buy them as origional and clean as you can. Treat them as hobby cars rather than collectables for a start. Go to www.Johnson Hot Rod Shop, in California, and see what the real thing looks like.

seats are gone.

1971 delta 88 455 2v- car is very cold sensitive. Even when warm, it acts like there is no accelerator pump and stalls a bit when I stand on it. Once past the initial hesitation it lights up the tires and goes like a bat. Carb has recent rebuild. Any ideas?

Anyone know where my steering wheel can be redone to look like new? If not, what years will fit when I go to the parts yard? Thanks

Go to soffseal.com

What is the factory torque requirements for torqing the bolts on the valve covers of 1971 455ci 2v? Thanks

I have a rear seat, white with slight tear, and the matching front seat that has no vinyl left but the seat frame and foam are still ok. Free to a good home. I'm in Atlanta, and these things are too heavy to ship, so I hope you can come and get them.

I ended up getting a 71 Impala rear end from a junk yard. It was in very good shape and bolted right in. Thanks

Drop down a few articles in the Technical section and you'll find a similar question and some answers. If your losing fluid, the system is compromised, but it is redundant as far as safety. It needs immediate fixing unless you intend to stop by leaning on trees beside the road. Find the leak and fix it. It will be obvious. It could be the master cylinder [rebuildable]or a leak anywhere along the brake line [replaceable]. After repairing the leak, the system will have air inside the system. Air is compresable,but fluid is not. Bleeding the brakes is simply the way air is removed from the system. It's done by opening the system at a low point such as at the rear and front brakes, adding fluid to the master cylinder and pumping the brake pedal in order to push fluid and air out of the system. The fluid is captured in a container while the air just exhausts out. When The air is all gone, and all you get is fluid, button it up. How you accomplish this routine, and considering the tools at hand determines if you should do it yourself or take to a pro. When the air is gone, the dash light will go off.

Well, as it turns out, The master cylinder was shot. I've been told that one chamber of the dual master cylinder controls both left side brakes and the other controls the both right side brakes, rather than seperate front and rear as stated in your message. Which is correct? Thanks

1971 Delta 88 Royalle. The "brake" light on the dash just came on. I cycled the emergency brake, and released it several times, and it seems to work fine. The car moves easily indicating full release of the brake, but the light stays on. There is plenty of fluid but the main pedal seems mushy and hisses when pushed quickly. Even so, the car stops normally. I replaced the differential recently which required dismantling of, and reassembly of, the brakes. Does this light come on for any other reason than to alert the driver that the emergency is still on?