jrbartlett

That Saratoga Springs Glidden was great, and I am glad that I had the the opportunity to tell him so. He will be missed.

Are CV joint rebuild kits available anywhere? Thought I bought one off Ebay, but my order was canceled and refunded due to "out of stock."

It's not me trying to do it, but a repair shop. I had my doubts, as I've rebuilt a shaft in the past without any issues.

Can an original '66 drive shaft with CV joints be replaced with a more conventional shaft with just standard U-joints?

Does anyone have a NOS cap, or new high-quality repro? Thanks.

Just have to add that these Franklins are really beautiful.

Could be primarily in the tire -- it's hard to get good ones these days.

I saw this car in the 1960 Indy 500, and remember its distinctive tail fin. Don't remember who drove it that year, but I do remember that Troy Ruttman made the race as well. Maybe it was him in this car.

I've not tried cutting gasoline with kerosene, but I don't see how an engine on it would run cooler because kerosene produces more BTUs when burned than gasoline. Seems like a mix might therefore produce a little more power, but run slightly hotter.

Can you share current photos? I remember these cars clearly from AACA events in the 1960s. There were a couple roadsters here in Texas.

Similar to Dandy Dave's story -- back in the 1970s a friend started up his Ford LTD with a big V-8. and the engine immediately revved to the redline and beyond. But when he turned the key off, the engine died. He raised the hood and found that overnight someone had stolen the carburetor. The disconnected fuel line pumped gas directly into the intake manifold, in effect floorboarding the engine.

Vietnam, Navy Seabees. Sent to pick up two diesel-powered rubber-tired mobile cranes at dock in Saigon. Locals had stolen battery and generator from one, and generator from the other. Looked around on ground for stray nuts and bolts and used them to relocate belt tensioners and restore just a little pull on the still-really-loose belts to drive the water pumps, and found a piece of thin, bare uninsulated wire that one of my guys used as a jumper cable. The wire got red hot so he had to hold it with water-soaked rags to jump start the one without a battery. Got both running and drove them at idle 15 miles down the road to our base south of Saigon. They did not overheat as we apparently had just enough water circulating.

Sure looks like a Packard fold-down trunk rack on the rear.

Radials are far more stable on worn roads with groves in the pavement. That was a big selling point in the 1970s when radials were first seriously penetrating the U.S. market. They also advertised more miles of tire life. I found both to be true then, and true now. The '35 Auburn that I refer to has everything rebuilt on the front end -- springs, shocks, rubber parts, wheel bearings, brakes, steering box & knuckles. Not covering up anything.

You'd still be better off finding an original mechanical pump for the engine. Plymouths likely used a fairly common pump and someone on the Chrysler or Plymouth forums can probably tell you which one it is, or even supply one.

There is a commonly available compressor that fits inside the spring. I've used one on a '64 Lincoln, but not on a Riviera.

How many miles are on the car? I experienced this problem back in the '70s with a 66 Riviera with 425 engine. Despite a working PVC valve, the engine blowby got so bad that I routed it from the breather into the engine air intake. The engine was simply worn out at 130,000 miles. I was just starting out in my career and was a new father, so I couldn't afford an engine job at the time. Not long after that a piston top broke off and the rod went through a cylinder wall. What we had been told by the dealership when the car was new was that Buicks used chrome rings and it would take 20,000 miles for them to fully seat, and the car would burn oil until then. That proved to be true. I always wondered if that resulted in premature cylinder wall wear. Buick also used cast rather than forged pistons, and my car was not the only nailhead engine that I heard about having piston tops break off.

Running Coker radials on my '35 Auburn. Won't go back to bias ply on the car.

I showed the blue-green Davenport Locomobile at Hershey this year and won a preservation award -- the car is remarkable considering it was restored a half-century ago by people who certainly knew what they were doing. But what amazed me was that at Hershey a half-dozen different people came up and told me that they knew the car, or inquired whether it was the Davenport car (I left his monogram on the car in honor of his World War II achievements). I had the pleasure of talking to Mr. Davenport twice right after I bought the car. He had written up the car's history from new, and collected a vast amount of Locomobile literature, which I've used to help owners of other Locomobiles.

My Locomobile shown above has never been in California. It's an East Coast car restored in 1972-1973 that was then basically in storage in Greenwich CT and Rumson NJ from 1973/4 until I bought it in 2007 and brought it back to life. So there must be one the same colors out west.

Does anyone have a similar photo explaining the pre-2000 date code?

I own two cars that have this type headlight. One set is good, the other less so. Looking to upgrade plus have spare lens in case of rock damage.

I may be interested in purchasing.