barra

Members
  • Content Count

    422
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About barra

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/13/1948
  1. Hi. I live in Michigan too and had three Reattas: two '89s and an '88. Like you, I enjoyed the car. I sold my last one because I got afraid that it would get damaged and the car started to feel "brittle" to me. Michigan ranks second in the US in the amount of salt used on its highways in the winter so I didn't drive it in the winter. I had 109,000 miles on it when I had to replace all the motor mounts, struts, intake manifold gasket and had valve body work done in the transmission just before selling it. Reattas are great. Staying ahead of the deterioration from time and Midwest weather requires constant attention.
  2. I drove my 88 Reatta across Grand Rapids in Overdrive and used cruise control. Everything worked perfectly until I stopped and parked. When started it again and tried to back up, the transmission shift lever would not drop into reverse or any other gear. There is no resistance in the lever when I tried to put it in gear. The car had been in storage for nine months. Today was the first day I drove it and there were no other indications of problems until this happened. HELP!
  3. I use conventional oil and a quart of Lucas in my 1988. The garage people build and drive stock cars and told me that synthetic in my 107,000 mile engine would not make a difference. The same people recommended Lucas oil ( a synthetic ) for my 2009 Cobalt. There is a longer period between oil changes and that seems to work well so far.
  4. I had all the struts/shocks replaced on my '88. The bearing plates were a problem. I took it to an independent shop that got plates that caused the car to pull to the left after a left turn and to the right after a right turn. I finally took the car to a GM dealer that used GM parts resolving the problem.
  5. I had similar thunks in my 1988. The motor/transmission mounts were worn but the problem was in the throttle body check "balls" and plates. The technician replaced the parts but did not add the proper amount of fluid ( two quarts needed ). Once the plates/balls and fluid was replaced, the thunks went away. My transmission had approximately 100,000 miles on it.
  6. I have a 1988 reatta and wonder what year(s) of rivieras would replace the rear suspension?
  7. The mechanic showed me a cell phone photo he made of the hole. The hole is designed to accept the strut; the previous strut broke and caused the hole to enlarge. Mr. Padgett, I do not know what "drilling and using a sleave" is. Who would know how to do that? a welder, body shop? Thank you all for your responses. For the moment, the strut seems to be still firmly in place and functioning.
  8. The rear struts on my 1988 were not leaking and didn't bounce when going over bumps. I replaced them with Monroe Sensi-trak (sp?) @$89 each and another $20 per side for new mounts from NAPA. The total labor was two hours @ $60/hr. The mechanic showed me that the top rod compressed into the hydraulic cylinder and did not rebound. He also showed me that the lower end of the strut had made the hole in the sub frame into an oval shape. At this point, he does not see this as a safety issue but said the hole could enlarge and require expensive cutting and replacing part of the sub frame. He questioned the value of the car in regard to the expense. Is this diagnosis/prognosis credible or are there other options?
  9. Mr Padgett, You are a man for all seasons and elements.
  10. Thank you for the responses. It seems that it depends on who is driving or sliding.
  11. I have been looking at manual transmission 2004-2006 GTOs. They have advertised traction control. Can these be driven in the winter snow? Are today's rear drive cars any different due to "improved" technology?
  12. What effect does the traction control on a manual transmission in a 2004-2006 GTO have on driving in the snow? I grew up driving rear-wheel drive V-8s in Pittsburgh in the sixties and seventies during the winter before there was traction control. We just added some weight to the trunk and expected to counter steer in a slide. What is the current advice?
  13. I had the local GM dealer replace the low level oil sensor. It has cost me twice what it would have had I done it "right" the first time. There is currently no warranty at Autozone on electrical parts.
  14. Autozone took the original GM part number 1649745 and found the part. GM changed the number to 12603784. The Autozone part came from its own inventory and was $40 (plus tax). The GM part is listed at $47.35 (plus tax). The one aspect shared in both places was that simply using the name( low oil level sensor) brought up nothing. It took a part number to find it in both places. I hope this information is useful. Thank you all for your information and help. I remember reading about the "right side up" experimentation some months ago. I know the mechanic who installed the part and I will share what you've told me and hope that is all that is required.
  15. Using an after market sensor, the dealer made the repair. The low engine oil message still displays. Would this message be held in the computer? I didn't see anything on the service receipt regarding clearing any codes.