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Everything posted by edinmass

  1. Jon....I was laughing so hard I didn't look at the photos close enough. It's interesting that people will make a bad sand casting, dreaming they will get it to work, and have two hundred hours in it machining also. There are still enough good ones available......yes, not cheap, but available.
  2. The carb in the first photos is a rough casting of a UU-2, not a UUR-2. The casting was just pulled off an old carb, with no adjusting for shrinkage. Also, it's the early UU-2 that was discontinued within a few months due to problems, so they copied a junk version. The casting is NOT useable, and if it was, the machine work would cost much more than a good used carb. Also, it's still missing one casting cover. Good used UU-2 and UUR-2 units are available, not cheap.....but much less than the cost of trying to play with the casting above.......which I don't think it is possible to use no matter how much time and money are spent on it. The issue with the origional pot metal going bad is just one hurdle, as MOST people have incorrect carbs on their cars.......Carbking can chime in, but there are multiple different castings on upper and lower castings, along with different choke horns. Thus........even a good used unit is expensive to set up for any particular application if you want the unit correct. I see many carbs on eBay listed for sale, but most are junk...........best guess is one in twenty are still good. You can expect to spend anywhere from 2-4 grand depending on missing parts, updates, linkages, chrome, ext. As to going rate.....not easy to say, but PROVEN GOOD body is worth decent money, many have internal passages blocked from metal fatigue, even from the outside they look ok. I see using prices on eBay for a core at 4k, without any guarantee its good. Buyer beware. Ed
  3. Recently I was sent these photos, asking if I could rebuild their carburetor. Not much shocks me, but this did. I need to answer the gentleman. who has no clue as to what is going on. Thoughts? 😳
  4. True craftsmen ALWAYS work to one level, the absolute best that they can achieve. I am not a paint and body guy.......I know and understand it, but don't have the ambition or experience do do a good job. Now, people often ask me how I can spend a month full time working out bugs and defects in restorations, and spend another two weeks tuning the car. When they jump in and drive it, they no longer ask the question. Last year, while at Pebble Beach, one of the top cars was trying to start........I could smell the ten year old gas, and see the owner who wasn't familiar enough on how to start it flood the engine. You think that shipping a car from Europe, they would have spent some time sorting and tuning it. Learn how to start it hot or cold. Get to know the car and the feel of it on the road.......nope. It was fine eight years ago before they parked it in the museum. Just put a battery in it and its ready to rock & roll, till it breaks down on the tour. What happened? ALL pre war cars require time and attention. Give it to them and they are a pleasure to drive and very reliable. Time today is something almost no one has, and if you can't give your car the attention it needs, it WILL let you down. A properly sorted early car will stay in tune, and be reliable. Just drive it ten miles every six weeks or so. Fact is almost all cars are neglected and don't receive the proper matainance that they were intended to have. Remember when you use to buy fuel at a SERVICE STATION? Now we buy fuel at a gas station. Today you can almost ignore your car, and it won't break down or self destruct. I don't recommend this treatment for pre war cars. The best way to get a great paint job for two thirds discount is VERY easy. Buy a well restored car that the guy has 150k in it for the 50k asking price. You get the paint, along with the upholstery, chassis rebuild, chrome, and all the extras for free. I do understand most of us here can't or won't wright the check...........so we learn to live with what we can or are willing to afford. Nothing wrong with that.........one just has to adjust his expectations. Today I am installing correct lights on a pre war car that won Best of Show at Pebble Beach. They were modified and hacked a few years ago to install turn signals. I removed the tin foil that was being used as a reflector............and replaced everything with factory parts. Interesting what an owner will do so he doesn't have to send a car out to be serviced. Fortunately the rest of the car has remained unmolested since the restoration. I could just install the lights and be on my way, but they cut the original wiring harness and used plastic wire and modern connectors, so I will spend a few days removing the gas tank, and making a new rear harness for the car, in the correct color coded cloth wire, with the correct early connectors. It's going to take a lot of time to do all of this, and no one will ever see the incorrect stuff......but I don't work that way. I service, repair, and restore cars to they way they were built new......and I enjoy every minute of it. Best, Ed
  5. The Franklin Olympic Coupe looks very nice, and the price was very reasonable. The Olympic was the junior series........rather short wheelbase. About the same size as a 40 Series Buick. I found an identical car in a barn in Sommer’s Connecticut about twenty years ago. Dark green, unrestored. Can’t be too many of them around. It had a rear mounted spare.
  6. Everything is relative........depending on your motivation. I like perfect cars......thats 1/10 of one percent of the hobby. Works good for me, its a terrible waste for most. To each his own! 👍
  7. He said “factory paint” and factory paint isn’t Pebble Beach, but it sure isn’t a paint over 70 year old paint at the local high school shop class. Reread the first post. He wants a good job, he just wants it for as little as possible........if you have been in the hobby long enough, you know where this is heading. Good paint and body work is expensive.
  8. Paint and peoples expectations; and how clubs and organizations judge and interpret "paint" varies as much as types of music.........from classical to grunge.........its all music....... but its not all the same. Correctly painting a car means taking it apart, and down to the metal, and bringing it back up to "new". Current restoration shop rates in the US run from anywhere as low as 50 dollars per hour........and up. How much up? Yesterday I was in a shop who's hourly rate is 325 per hour. And they were busy. All work is NOT equal. Honestly, a full service shop that can do everything in house, I think 90 per hour is the lowest I have seen in ten years. Fact is 90 percent of the work being done on collector cars is "less than factory quality" and 70 percent is hack work and sub standard. I have been in the hobby 40 years, and do this full time............ many customers simply refuse to fix and restore their cars properly...........due to financial decisions. Many shops are not capable of doing good work. Sad but true. When we paint a car, we expect the paint to last 30 or more years, and still look great. That's hundreds of hours of work. We only use top of the line materials. They cover better, sand and buff easier, and give much better results than cheap materials. You can paint a car with a roller and use rustoleum and from fifty feet away going down the road it will look fine. I know from experience, as that is how I painted my first car. Since I was 13 years old at the time, it was the best that I could do. It kept the neighbors from complaining about my "junk car that was five different colors" from trashing up the neighborhood. In 1992 I spent 7200 dollars on materials to paint my own car, 22,000 miles and twenty five years later it scored 98 1/2 points at a CCCA show. You get what you pay for in this world. You can get a hamburger for 99 cents at McDonalds, or pay as much as 20 dollars in some restaurants. The original post said FACTORY PAINT JOB, that's not a 5k project. No one asked if they were taking overall consideration of the value of the car. Many people invest 150k into a car that when finished is only worth 40k, thats not the point. He asked for a factory type finish, that means removing the interior, all the trim, fenders, bumpers, etc.......then taking it down and doing it right.......PLUS body work. PS- A Pebble Beach paint job is 200k all day long..............if you want to win a first in class on a pre war car.
  9. Hi, while not worth a fortune, it has some value. Send me a PM through this site, and I will be happy to help you out with it. I can list it for sale for you in the Auburn club website. To get the most value out of it, you need to be willing to make a good crate and place it on a pallet for shipping. I have no interest in it for myself. I can give you some insight into selling it in private. Best, Ed
  10. Decent paint, primer, sand paper, and other materials will run 1500 bucks for cheap stuff. Five grand for a paint job? 50k is only mid level work to do it correctly in most areas. Recently a collector asked me how much to repaint his Pebble Beach winner with zero miles and about 40 year old paint. I quoted 200k, but expect another 50k in extras. You can't get a plumber to show up to your house for less than 200 dollars today, and that's just to get them there.
  11. Lincoln cars of this vintage are well documented............production of the cars was never high, and they were considered collectible from day one. Most survive as very few were scrapped. Restored and unrestored car supply exceeds demand, and the prices have been very depressed on them for a very long time. High point finished cars are available for unbelievably low prices.
  12. Car looks very nice..........Springfield Rolls Royce Ghost’s are one of the most under rated cars in the hobby.
  13. I pen take and exhaust valves, guides, and springs.......call 413-543-9017 east coast business hours, ask for John. He may have pistons........... He has lots of other parts available. I see you my prefer email, his email address is pierceparts@aol.com
  14. Having good pressure and then a drop off is going to be just one of a few possibilities. Oil pressure relief / bypass valve, internal oil line crack/leak/failure, or for some reason and oil gallery plug coming out. On many high end cars, the pressure regulator and bypass valve are external, making any repair much easier. Take your time and figure it out, guessing can be expensive and time consuming.
  15. Actually, not really. Problem with a Springfield car is there are so few well sorted cars..........and sorting one is very, very difficult.
  16. Nothing better than a Springfield Rolls......absolutely nothing.
  17. An oil pressure pot............A pressurized tank, filled with oil......3 to 6 gallons, and adaptor lines to place an external oil source with pressure too pre lubricate and engine before start up, as used on many aircraft engines from the 20's to the 50's. It will allow him to see oil flow at every spot in the engine, BUT any open gallary, cracked line, or large leak will be apparent right away. All while making a HUGE mess......I have special pans for my lift. When starting a exotic engine for the first time....like a Model J, we use it to flush the engine BEFORE start up Ed Looks kinda like this...........item shown is not an actual unit, but similar.
  18. Does it have a bypass oil filter? If so, it needs an orifice to regulate pressure and volume through the bypass filter. Common issue on rebuilt motors on start up. I have seen it a dozen times. Be careful, and use an oil pressure pot if you don’t find anything obvious. If you missed a line, cracked a line, or some other internal issue, a pressure pot is the only way to find it.
  19. How about a few photos of your new car...........was it the white one in the mid Atlantic coast?
  20. This front bumper off my old Pierce help you out.......I think it's still in the barn up north.........same condition as in the two year old photo. Very decent for a barn find car. Ed
  21. I once owned a condo that had a HOA board run by 12 Marine Drill Sargents.........they were crazy tough. BUT....everyone was informed well before the purchase went through. Buildings were maintained as new. After twenty years of ownership I listed the unit for sale at a 10 percent too high of asking price according to the realtor.........sold the place in less than an hour. HOA are not always bad, its just people who don't do due diligence to understand the rules.I rather have a hyper active board, over one that doesn't enforce the rules.
  22. Hello, I would be happy to help. There is too much to go over here, a phone call would be appropriate. Just a few comments.......... The 836A was the least expensive car that Pierce ever built. Most of the body and trim are different from all the other Pierce cars, and the car was built on a shorter chassis. Thus, the 836A is the least “desirable” from a car collecting standpoint. It’s still a great pre war car, but today most collectors only restore the more senior models, as they hav a much stronger following and return on investment. Currently ANY collector car that is apart, under restoration, or what ever term you choose........are very difficult to sell, as running and driving car prices have been depressed for the last 18-24 months. My my direct email address is xxxxxxxxxxxx send me you contact info, number, and a good time to call. Best, Ed contact made........thanks.
  23. Time is running out on the stuff from 1 to 98 percent. I see an incredible amount of cars that seem “cheap” to what I would consider normal market prices of the recent past. Good stuff.....85-98 percentile is “ok” or soft. The top two percent are on fire. It’s interesting to see how the market is adjusting, and making valuation judgments can be difficult today. Crazy high prices are just as common as crazy low prices. Only thing for certain, my cars seem to be on the short end of the stick.........since I will probably die with what I have, I’m not overly concerned.
  24. I can tell you one thing.....that is NOT the auction to send that car to.