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edinmass

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Posts posted by edinmass

  1. Yes, we added graphite to oil for our top fuel dragster in the cam boxes. Messy stuff(think like non cured rubber cement),  worked well, and held up to running the strip with pure nitro. There are a lot of issues not covered here as far as steering boxes go. After a car sits baking in a hot garage in the summer and a freezing garage in the winter for forty, fifty, or sixty years, the lube in the box can turn to tar, or something worse. Then people com along and add new / modern lubricants on top of the old sludge type contents. The Lowe portion and bushings get no lubrication but the operator thinks they have taken car of the problem, and in reality all they have done is added to it. 95 percent of the total Restorations out there have not had their steering box apart, the same goes for the rear end.

  2. New Cadillacs easily have a sticker of 100k, I looked at a GMC pick up last month for 88k, and it was a leftover.  The Pierce is a a much better investment than the new car.......yes, it’s expensive for a low use toy if your a middle class working man with a family. But then again, I recently saw a set of wheels sell for 60k, and a pair of lights for 25k, it’s all relative.I have had very good luck selling cars here. From all price categories and era’s. You could have thirty five of these for the cost of the Tucker Convertiable! 

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  3. Talk about a rare car, it’s one of none! Provenance is an actual word, and you can look it up in the dictionary. Having dealt with a bunch of high end cars, I can tell you for a fact before anyone puts seven figures down on the table, you better have LOTS MORE than some affidavits written 70 years post fact. Photos, bills of sale, paperwork trails...........not a story about a rusty  frame with some extra globs of rust hanging off of it. I personally don’t see very low six figures for any Tucker, craftsmanship and engineering make it look much more like a kit purchased from Tractor Supply. Ask the boys who were at Pebble Beach this year with the Tucker automatic transmission. They had lots to say about it..............I won’t repeat what was said.......this is a family site!

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  4. Dim headlights are most often a sign of a bad ground. Use a power probe from your local mechanic to supply power to the back of the headlight while it is off. If the light is brighter with the jump from the power probe you have a power supply / resistance issue on the feed side. If the light remains dim, its a ground issue or bulb problem(unlikely). Also just jump a power and ground to the light to check brightness incase there is a bulb issue. Should be simple to figure out.

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  5. First, let me say we have manufactured steering box worms, roller wheels, and other assorted bearing surfaces for the Gemmer 205 and 215 boxes. There is a lot more going on in a steering box than most people realize. The high pressure and shock load on the surfaces are incredible. Unless the lubrication flows easily the surface will gall and the box will tear it's self apart. I don’t have the technical background to properly explain it, but the new corn head type grease doesn’t start to flow until there is significant movement in the box. Watch a video of it on you tube and you will see the stuf starting to flow at rpm, but it firms up when the unit is stationary. When we made the new parts for the Gemmer boxes, we modified the boxes for modern seals per the recommendation of the gear cutting people who made the worm. When the boxes are upgraded the lubricant we use is ATF. Remember the worm isn’t the only surface taking high pressure, the pitman arm bearings/bushing and the worm bearings are under sever load and stress. You need to get lubrication all the way to the top bearing on the steering shaft. Anyways, the people who made the worm for us who had sixty years of experience in their field recommended the thinnest or lowest  viscosity that will stay in the box. Thicker is NOT better. Many boxes never get checked and are run empty, more than you can imagine. I think the biggest issue is the boxes with the throttle and light shafts going through them, thus they have leather, felt, or cork seals that dry up over the years. Since most boxes that were built don’t have leaking issues most of this conversation is pointed toward the cars from about 1935 or earlier. Brass cars leak and drip oil and grease, it’s just what they do, it’s the 100 point show cars that the guys don’t want making a mess in the garage, trailer, or on the chassis that is typically why everyone wants something that won’t make a mess and become a  maintenance  Issue. Tractor gear boxes and  differentials have much more movement and diffrent requirements for lubrications than a steering box the has almost no movement. Hope this poor explanation makes sense.

     

    By the way, I went to the Penrite sight and the say it is ok for SOME of the boxes......NOT all. My best guess is we have done(rebuilt) forty or fifty Ross and Gemmer boxes in the last twenty years. Now the question you will ask is......what do we use in them? Well, we always try to upgrade to modern seals, which requires a lot of machine work......aka.......labor=money.......ATF is our first choice, after that it depends on the application. We have made a mixture of motorcycle gear oil and grease for one of MY boxes, and it has worked fine. Most often we ship them dry and let the owner make their own decision, as it seems everyone has something they prefer.

  6. It's amazing what true skilled craftsmen can build from almost nothing. I haven't seen hand work like that in thirty years. It scares me that all the truly talented craftsmen I know are at least my age or a bit older.........twenty five years from now there won't be anyone talented enough to build or repair all the things in life that I like to spend my time and money on. Wray is a true master craftsman, and only a lifetime pounding panels in a shop can get you a skill set like he has. I would be happy to be half the welder he is.........and that's never gonna happen.

  7. 7 minutes ago, Restorer32 said:

    If you owned an irreplaceable Roman Amphora worth several hundred thousand dollars would you use it to serve your guests lemonade since that's what it was made for ? 

     

     

    Yes! I won't shoot my early firearms due to the danger, but everything else I own I use it...or sell it. Below is my current bedspread, which my two Scotty Dogs slept on half the afternoon. It's FDR's lap robe he used on official head of state visits and tours. I also read my two and three hundred year old books........why not? Seat photo is  if factory upholstery from a J that had 36 thousand original miles on it. The seam opened up while we were driving it 1100 miles on tour last month, car now has just over 38k on it. We fixed the seam, and did some preservation on the rest of the leather.....looks better than it has in fifty years. The only bigger sin than wear and tear on on object of art is to not use it at all. 

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  8. I usually paint the plate any color I want, usually to match the car. As time has gone on, I have new modern "fake" plates made with the numbers and letters I want, and use them on the car over the road. I keep the origional plates in the car, and all three times I have been asked, they just smile and let me go. In most states, as long as you have a registration and proof of insurance, having the wrong plate is a twenty five dollar fine............since I never speed...........?.......... it's never been an issue. I don't even bother with inspection stickers anymore, and that saves another 40 bucks per year. The northeast states are just sticking it to us real bad, year of manufacture plates renew every year and have a extra charge.........thats why I just get a regular plate and carry it around.

  9. Matt, I don't have my brake systems book down south, you can buy them on eBay and they cover ten to fifteen years for all cars. Worth the investment for what you do. It looks like the unit on the steering box is a boost control, the second unit probably applies the vacuum to the big canister just after you start pushing on the brake pedal. Some type of valve to turn the vacuum on and off as the canister will leak in small amounts so that's there to prevent leaks. Pierce used something different from 36 to 38, as did Stutz in 32 - 33. Cadillac 16's also used a similar set up. Take a propane soldering torch and open it up full blast without lighting it, passing the propane around the fittings, hoses, connections, and components. The fuel will get sucked into the engine and you will notice a faster speed and the engine should not stall with the extra fuel being added. Works like a charm, and there is no fire or flash over danger. Works good for manifold leak checking also. I think if you plug the lines infant of the rear big booster and step on the brakes and there is no change, I would start there. Most of them have leather rawhide seals, that you get to make.......been there done that. Sometimes just putting in some neatsfoot oil in the unit and soaking it for a few days softens the seal and stoops the leak. The canister and parts are pot metal inside.....with all the joy that goes with it. So BE CAREFUL if you have to take the system apart.....they almost always break to pieces. 

  10. Mass will NOT accept restored, repainted, or retouched plates, so.........1932 dark red background with white letters/numbers. Paint the background a dark flat maroon  and the numbers a flat off white, then leave them outside for the winter. Throw some mud on them and then gently heat them in the oven after you weather them, then wipe them with a dry rag. Once approved, blast them, and paint them any color you want. Works for me for twenty five years.

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