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Posts posted by edinmass

  1. Roger........the problem may not be the car..........just the price. While I have no idea of your cars value, usually decent cars priced at or near market value sell in a reasonable period of time. Ask yourself this question, how many people woke up today and want to spend XXXX dollars on a car just like mine. I don't know the market for cars built in the 1970's, bit my expectation is there is good supply of cars and probably more than one would realize. As far as value is concerned, you can't look at what you think it's worth, or what you have in it........its all about supply and demand..........a car that's is not in demand just isn't going to get as many calls, thus not as much money as some others......and we are not even talking about condition. I do think your asking is fair and observant but its best to know the micro market of what your trying to sell.........today most people want turn key cars..........I don't blame them, people are busy, and getting decent work done is difficult at best, as well as expensive. On rather common cars, Ebay may be the best way to sell it........list it for sale for a week with your price, put in the ad that if not sold by such and such a date it will go to a no reserve auction. The hard fact is a no reserve auction is the true value of the car........and one can take a terrible beating on the pocket book, but in the end, you did end up with a fair market price. Best of luck with your sale.......Ed

  2. Jim......I almost became a Vermonter before moving to Palm Beach........I love the Whitingham Vt area. The Cadillac’s can be and are a handful. Being a purist I won’t run a Caddy on an electric pump, but I sure understand why people do it. I have a 16 right now that runs perfect in the cool weather.......when it gets over 85 though you may as well bring a tow truck when you go for a ride. I think I can get it fixed.......but I will be out of hair and have a bad attitude by the time I get it done. Never, Never,Never buy a car without getting expert help, it’s the best return on investment you will EVER spend on a purchase. I have been noticing that in today’s modern world with instant gratification in most areas, people just don’t have the patience to get the cars sorted. Reguardless of what the car costs, and even if It just won a class at Pebble Beach, it’s going to need work. Currently I am keeping twenty complicated pre war cars running, sorted, and ready to tour on a moments notice............it’s incredible how busy it keeps me. I get help when needed, and it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. My best advice is when you need to service or make a repair gather all possible parts, gaskets, spares, and lots of photos of you car before you take it apart, as well as photos of other similar cars. Just yesterday I did a major job in a one off multi cylinder monster of a car, it’s been almost 9 months since I started locating parts, gaskets, had some items chromed, fabricated a few small easy parts, etc. To my amazement it all went rather smoothly and the car will be ready to run first thing this morning. I’m looking forward to tuning it and taking it for a drive.....it’s first real time out as a correct, properly restored and sorted car. No incorrect parts anywhere......including fuel line fittings, modern wiring, correct carburetor, correct distributior, overhauled steering box, new tires and tubes, and new wheels. All on a 100 point car that wouldn’t run or drive correctly. The original prototype Kelsey-Hayes wheels were failing and I had to make new ones.......it was a global proposition but I got them done in less than 90 days all in......I wasn’t easy, but very rewarding. Unfortunately the owner of the car likes to keep his stuff camera shy, so I can’t post a photo. I’m looking forward to today’s drive.


    Thats right.....I forgot overhauling the brake system, water pump, fixing oil leaks, a rattle in the drivers door, installing correct hose clamps, and a bunch of other stuff that’s escaping me......all on a 100 point car. With luck, it will be called “sorted and ready to tour” by this weekend. We shall see............

  3. JV- since you had you car almost fifty years ago, there are some issues back then you weren’t fighting. Having a correct intact unmolested car was and still is a great advantage. Today you would also have the following........


    pot metal in distributor- almost all pre 29’s have failed- solution very difficult today.

    modern fuel- vacuum tank doesn’t work as well with today’s fuel density - specific gravity and boil point

    parts availability- much better back then for spare and consumables......try to get CORRECT points today(one size fits all...not!)

    incorrect reproduction parts......lots of carb parts being sold are not correct.....big problem now

    additional fifty years of tractor mechanics messing things up........

    general lack of basic mechanical skills of most collectors today.......

    modern road conditions......people drive their old car much too fast today....causing lots of problems.....


    I can attest that from 1980 to today the Stewart Warner tanks are much more of a hassle, and the Cadillac carb is just plain terrible with no mixture control. Add in the funky float hinge and needle and seat modifications that almost all Cadillac’s suffer, and it adds up to a bunch of hassles. Also, in today’s modern world almost everyone is so short on time that they just don’t stick to getting problems sorted out. There is no shortcut for time spent sorting and maintaining a car. 


    Its my my experience that most new collectors who start out with a 1921-1931 Cadillac get very frustrated with their cars quickly. They also get lots of bad advice........and usually don’t know when to accept good advice.....I often don’t even try to help sometimes.........people insisting on half assed repairs who have never driven a pre war car twenty feet. I suggest that today people looking for help ask only owners who have driven their car ten, twenty, or thirty thousand miles.........they are the best resource. In one of my clubs we have a guy we call the answer man.......has an answer for all problems and issues........but his car never runs and we never see it on tour.....






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  4. 1 hour ago, daniel boeve said:

    I am worrying about the wood structures in those cars .i have been reading horror stories how termites can destroy a whole structure .Looking at the pictures nothing can be seen from sagging doors or something like that .But i have no experience in that field .i hope other people  know more than i do .Thanks 


    I think a comment like that is unfair........you haven't seen the car in person, and cars rarely get termites..........dry rot and water rot yes........... Sagging doors don't necessarily mean bad wood either............ as far as anyone knows the wood in the car is perfectly fine...........if you're a serious buyer call the seller and ask...........commenting on bad wood can taint this car............. as far as I can see it looks like a nice, decent car. Ed

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  5. All good advice......there is no easy answer, you need to figure out the damage, and why it failed before you proceed. To be straight forward, trying to jam another rod in without pulling the engine is a marginal crap shoot, the hard way is usually the fastest and best repair........quick and dirty often comes back to bite you hard.......and fast.

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  6. Cosdel in San Francisco California can do it......that handle the majority of the cars for all the best shows globally. I have moved cars with them many times. They usually have people in every country that can handle trucking, storage, customs warehouses, paperwork, and very importantly which ports you go in and out of. Ask for Jenny R. she does a great job. Ed


    By the way, you get what you pay for.....no truer statement than when your shipping a car internationally, you can lose a car if your not doing thing things correctly, and be delayed by months or even years, don’t risk it with some low end companies who claim they know what they are doing...............horror stories can easily occour. 

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  7. 1 hour ago, Mongol said:

    Accelerator got stuck on me


    Well......even so, unless it was for more than thirty seconds, It shouldn't have spun. While a full throttle rpm is hard on the engine, it should be able to handle it for a short time even after just 300 miles. Sounds like the rod sizing may have been off or not optimal, I would also suspect oil failure.............and the reason of why it failed must be determined. A Chevy engine of this vintage is far from fragile, and not difficult to do right, even for a production engine shop.


    Which rod/cylinder had the issue?

  8. You need to elaborate much more, year, make, model, ect........also, if you have one bad bearing on a new motor, you probably have other issues. Just pouring a new rod bearing and installing it more often than not you will encounter other issues. Posting photos of the bearing and the crank will help determine the cause of failure. At the minimum, you should pull the head, oil pan, and all the rods just to clean and inspect everything. Fast, quick, and dirty....IE just fixing the rod is a recipe for additional disaster. With 300 miles and a failure......you DO have problems, now you need to figure out the extent of it. Look forward to additional info and photos. Best, Ed


    PS - You can have babbit bearings or inserts, a spun bearing refers to the inserts spinning or moving while the engine is running, usually it causes galling, and blocked oil passages to other parts of the motor, you need to do some teardown to figure things out. Photos of what you find in the bottom of the oil pan will also tell a story......

    • Like 1
  9. I always find it interesting people want to restore a car, but won’t make an effort to try and do just the minimum research. Recently a restoration shop painted an engine light gray, because they saw the same year engine on an internet photo..........the year and series were listed wrong on the photo, thus a car with a black engine had its painted gray. As it was being assembled the owner posted a photo of the car 85 percent done, with the hood off. I asked why they painted the engine the wrong color...........I was told I was an idiot.........then a short time later the car showed up on the show field with a black engine. Basic research is very easy, and many people are willing to help. Sometimes there is a difference of opinion, but most time it’s on small items easy to correct even after the car is finished. Benefit of the doubt should always go to the car. Recently I saw a 1933 sedan with factory installed turn signals and a aircraft type compass on the windshield header, both done very well, I was quite impressed. Either option would have never occurred to me at such an early date. I think most reatorations can be 99 percent accurate and authentic with less than twenty hours effort. It’s much more time consuming finding the right parts than it is doing the research. It took me two years to find correct NOS plugs for a car that we were doing the show circuit with. It’s this type of attention to detail that I enjoy.......no matter how frustrating and time consuming it can be.


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  10. Depending on the application one can sometimes make modern fitting look very similar to the earlier type. Many of the high end cars used unique fittings with certain finishes. I have been collecting fittings for years, and a while back bought hundreds of them from a local obsolete parts dealer. Recently I saw a 100 point Pierce Arrow done by a very knowledgeable collector, the car was perfect except the fittings on the fuel pump, which he correctly stated are almost impossible to find, and very, very expensive to duplicate. I agreed, and sent him some from my stash for his car as a gift........I was just intrested in seeing his car be as correct as possible. I have been at this a very long time.........and I will share the most important thing I was ever taught in the car hobby, and it took me many years to embrace......always do the correct repair, to 100 percent of the best of your ability, taking no short cuts relative to time or money. It’s a hard lesson to learn, but cars that are fixed or restored considering cost or time are the one that always seem to break down, and sell for pennies on the dollar for what their owner think they are worth. When I see modern hose clamps, modern wires and coils, modern tractor type oil filters, ect......I know that every other part of the car was done on the cheap........and yes, I would estimate that 85 percent of the cars I look at are done this way.........and I just pass on buying them, knowing it’s going to take a fortune to make them right, and a year of sorting to get them to go down the road. Too many people do “good enough” work on their cars. They end up having much less enjoyment from their toys. Yes, I understand many or most people can’t afford to pay to have this type of work done, and many are not capable of doing it themselves. It’s human nature to want a car one or two steps up from financially from what they really can afford......I was in this category most of my life........but a correct and authentic car is the best option for reliability, aesthetics, and future resale. Cobbled up cars are just no fun. It’s also my experience that a temporary fix instantly becomes permanent if it works, no matter how bad or poorly it’s done. 


    When possible I plan all repairs well in advance, acquire all parts necessary with additional ones I might need,  then I Service the car. A few years ago my 32 Pierce Coupe suffered a minor head crack. I had a spare on the shelf. I cleaned the spare head, magnafluxed it for cracks, surfaced ALL the gasket surfaces, primed and painted it, and had a new head gasket on hand also. The hard part was the head bolts in the car were incorrect. This was a 80 point twenty five foot driver.........and I knew it was going to cost me a fortune to make new stainless head bolts with the correct profile. It wouldn’t add ten cents to the value of the car, but it would cost me more than a grand to make them correctly. I practice what I preach. I took the extra time, and spent the money and put the right bolts in the car. It was the right thing to do. A very short time later someone came up to me at the PAS meet, and asked if my car was for sale........No, it’s not. While looking over the car and explaining to him  the new head and bolts he smiled and pushed me harder to sell.........I named a price, and he agreed on the spot.......it was more than he wanted to pay, but he knew my car was the best I could make it reguardless of cost.........I got my price, he got a great car, and has been enjoying it ever since. And.........he has twenty great and world class cars in his garage that he has never driven. It took him until he was in his late seventies to realize that cars done on the quick and cheap are no fun. He recently called me and said he’s enjoying the car more than anything he ever has in his life, and he recently did two thousand trouble free miles with my old car. I’m quite sure he is converted to the “do it right no matter what” theory of car restoration. 


    This hobby is supposed to be fun, and commenting on incorrect parts, less than optimum repairs and such are NOT a  criticism of the person or the car, it’s an attempt to teach and instruct on correct repairs and methods of servicing a car. Would you accept your doctor, dentist, or CPA doing an “ok” or quick and dirty service for you? Too many people treat a car as a financial proposition.....if they can’t make money on it they don’t want it.......it’s a sure way to be disappointed both with the car and hobby. Fact.......old cars are EXPENSIVE...........no use trying to deny it.......if your tight with your money this isn’t the hobby you should choose. When I fix my car, a friends car, or a customers car I ALLWAYS do the best repair I can reguardless of cost. If the person can’t afford it, I understand and politely decline to do the work. I now no longer service other people’s cars for financial gain..........but I still only offer help and assistance on doing it correctly. I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving, all my best. Ed

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  11.  Modern fittings don’t look anything like the correct vintage fitting.  It’s common to see so-called 100 point cars with all incorrect fittings.  Some cars only use a few but many of the big classics  use one or two dozen.  I’m always amazed that people by vintage radiator hose clamps,  reproduction wiring harness in cloth,  paint inspection marks as the factory used in  Assembly  but then I see 15 modern fittings on the fuel and oil system. 

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  12. Matt, they are billet and exact copies of what was used in the day. They are much better quality than what most of the others(don’t want to say all) make, and don’t have the other problems like most of the epoxy and other poorly constructed units have. I have put these on all my cars that they fit. Worth every penny. Yes he is a close friend, and if you held one in your hand you would see that it’s not really a money maker. The entire thing is machined inside and out. And unlike 99 percent of the reproduction stuff you buy today, it fits correctly, and works correctly. 

    • Like 1
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