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Posts posted by edinmass

  1. To be honest, depending on thr car, I carry one or two. Understand EVERY car I Service has a battery quick disconnect switch CORRECTLY installed. So I am comfortable with a 21/2 pound Halon in most cases. On my Cadillacs, I carry two at all times, and three on long tours. Cadillacs love to burn......probably at the rate of ten times of all the others. There is a new fire extinguisher that looks like a old road flare that was used by NASA in the spacecraft that I am looking at. You can see it on Jay Leno’s Garage video in the last few months. Once activated it goes for 55 seconds, and it never needs service. Watch the video, I think I am going to add them to all the cars along with the Halon units. They are very small and light weight, and worth the extra expense for at additional capacity.

  2. 22 hours ago, 1912Staver said:

    As far as I understand true 427 GTE's are extremely rare. 256 built. And a good many had the 427 "robbed" for something else over the years.  It is extremely difficult to be 100% sure that is indeed the original engine. And the selling dealers description seems pretty vague other than the Marti report. {Really documents nothing other than the information on the tag.}

      I would be cautious to the point of paranoid about it. Find out who is the true expert on these cars and pay for an inspection.  


    Greg in Canada


    Greg is more than 100 percent correct. Get the best guy in the world on these cars to help you out, it’s worth every penny. I can’t repeat this enough, ALWAYS get help when laying out money for a car, especially if you can’t affort to take a 100 percent hit in value. 

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  3. Just one more short note,we cut an old engine block in half as we could handle it easier and use it as a fixture to hold the manifold while heating it and welding it, then cooling it down over a few days.........didn’t work. The manifold material was so poor new cracks developed and the entire manifold warped to the point it couldn’t be resurfaced reguardless of thr cracks........trust me, some very talented people tried to get a lesser expensive fix, and it didn’t work.


    We have successfully fixed the 1930 to 1932 manifolds using the above fixture, but the manifold is a diffrent design, and a diffrent type of iron.


    I have seen OLD repairs to all of the 1929-1932 manifolds hold up well, but I think they were done pre war. 

  4. 13 minutes ago, John_S_in_Penna said:


    Ed, I always appreciate reading your postings,

    as they come from a lot of experience.  For 

    everyone's knowledge, can you tell us where

    such manifolds are available?  Are they being

    reproduced for a number of early cars, or are they

    being cast to order based on a pattern?  Does the

    shop have patterns, or must the owner supply one?


    If new manifolds are available, this will potentially

    help a lot of people.





    John, they are a project left over from the old days, and they only make this particular manifold.


    Hi, they are currently being manufactured by a non profit as a project to fund their 501C3, as I was on the board of directors of that organization for ten or more years, as a volunteer, I rather not post them in the open. Anyone who needs a manifold for the exact application of a 1929 Stude President can PM me for thr contact info. The new manifolds are redesigned and thicker all around, and will never fail. And they are made of a much better grade of iron. Back in the 1970’s they were very reasonable as far as price, today they are more expensive but are a better job and a much more authentic look. Sometimes the 1970’s manifolds come up for sale on eBay, and I always try to buy them for spares if reasonable. Currently I don’t have anything on the shelf. Ed


    PS- John, thanks for the kind words!

  5. Manifolds for this car have been in production since the 1970’s. They were cast from poor material, and are very thin, and prone to failure in six or seven places. Even if the current crack is repaired, it’s likely to crack in another spot on cooldown. Heating it to only 1200 won’t prevent it from cracking, this is a very long manifold off a straight eight. Having worked on lots of these manifolds, and having thirty five years of experience with this particular manifold, and having been involved with the people who have manufactured them in the past, and am very friendly with the current people who have thr project, and having installed five or six new manifolds, I can tell you not to waste your time and money. I have no horse in this race, but have been through this many times with this manifold. It was a one year only design.........they failed when new, and were replaced by a diffrent design in 1930. Just like the UU-2 carburetor made of all pot metal that came on the car, there were three upgrades to make the carburetor work and last. Don’t fight it, just replace it.

  6. Hi Terry. It hasn’t been on a AACA field as far as I know. I don’t want to “spill the beans” but I think you will enjoy it. It has many unusual and unique features. It’s an unusual platform, and not often seen. I look forward to seeing you at the show. PM sent, Ed.

  7. The Cadillac engine is governed back by being under carbureted, thus if you change it out, you take a large risk on ruining you engine. The “easy” way out on a pre war car is usually the most difficult and damaging to the car. Where do you stop? 12 volts, hydraulic brakes,  electronic ignition, radial tires, electric wipers, tilt steering column? All pre war cars can and will run correctly with stock components, it’s just that some are more difficult than others. If I want to drive a Cadillac fast, I’ll buy a modern car. At some point modifications make the car no longer what it was. I have driven 1931 Cadillac’s thousands of trouble free miles and they were all bone stock. No, it wasn’t easy, but it sure is rewarding when you car runs circles around another similar car, and the other guy can’t believe you car runs and drives so good. Make the effort, learn you cars original systems and make them work, it’s more rewarding than you can imagine. 


    To be clear.......a more modern carburetor can cause the car to be driven too fast for its brakes, steering ability, and overall chassis handling,as well as spinning the engine to fast.........it will tear the car up from the inside out. Plain fact of the matter is most modifications are made by people who have no clue as to what they are doing. Not only does carburetor size come into play, do they tune the car with a five gas analyzer? Do they understand the fuel supply system? Are the changes safe in the event of an accident or possibly be more likely to cause a fire.....I can tell you from forty years experience that 99 percent of thr time the answer is no.


    PS- when I drive early Cadillacs, and I have owned them from 1914 to 1940, I carry TWO fire extinguishers, yes, two......get the hint?


  8. I’ll be at the Ocala meet and for me it will be a first. I have attended AACA meets since 1971, and almost every Hershey since then also, but this is the first time I will have ever showen a car or have it judged in this organization. I’m looking forward to having a car on the field and meeting some more forum members in person. 👍

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  9. Halon won’t touch paint. Recently a mid seven figure car burst into flame in the shop with a ruptured fuel line......(not our car) and I put the fuel fire out in a fraction of a seconed. The puddle of gas was on the floor, but did not reignite. Ask yourself this simple question, why does virtually every car on the field at Pebble Beach have Halon? Because it’s the best thing available. 

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  10. West is right! Take everything off except the side mount covers. Go to blackwalls, and a darker red will look fantastic. Be sure to only order four tires for the ground, and see if thr covers will go over them......probably not, then you might need 650 or 700’s under the covers. All new tubes.......for safety. And with the money you save on radials you can still have six new hoops and be way under the cost of the others. It seems lately trim rings are getting very hard to find.......lots of people ask me if thr Pierce rings will fit a Lincoln.......and the answer is no.....we tried it twice in the last ten years just to be sure. We made 18 inch rings ten years ago, only had five people pre order sets, and made twenty sets just to make the production work. We sold them all off in less than a year. People are still calling. Lesson.......when you see them, buy them, as it isn’t going to get any easier. If you can find a spare wheel, I always buy one and keep it in the trailer, so I’m the event of a flat on tour, I don’t have to fight with covers and drive on a smaller tire. 

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  11. 9 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

    1932 Packard Dietrich Bodies Cars in "Customs" really are stunning - every single one of them.


    I agree. I think the 1932 Custom Dietrich Packard line was the best ever offered anywhere for style. They make most other one off customs look like a half hearted attempt at designing a car.  The only fault I can find with them is they didn’t make enough of them.

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  12. Mike......the arrow is a left over from the original name of the car. It was going to be called “Pierce-Arrow II”, and it was changed at the last minute. The arrow through the logo remained. Hunter Engineering has extensive background in dealing with pre war and post war car and truck wheels. The are the premier equipment company for wheel balancing, alignment, and other chassis components. There isn’t anyone better in the business. 

  13. John, thr 836A I bought was never left outside. It was always garaged from new. As far as restoring a car to its factory look, if it’s possible to do, the current thought and trend is put it back exactly as it was when new down to the last minute detail. To be honest, I think most cars were well done in the day, and collectors today over restore, over color,(I’m guilty), and many put too much junk on the car........mirrors, wheel covers, lights, trunks, and assorted do dads. Currently the plane Jane look is what is taking home trophies, if that is what your thing is.

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  14. Mike .....all is well. No worries. I’m the most guilty party on this sight hijacking threads and changing subjects. 


    Question on for you on your Avanti........do you know why the logo has an arrrow through it?




  15. 13 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

    1963 Avanti is a bit different to a 1935 Lincoln or Buick or Chev or Studebaker or whatever, pre-war car. 20 years more technology, better metallurgy, more engineering mathematics known and so on.


    This is a PRE WAR radial discussion.

    • Like 2
  16. https://www.sema.org/files/attachments/WTC-2011-05-Bias-vs-Radial-Tire-Wheel-Fitment.pdf 



    Try reading this on bias VS radial tires. Notice at the last page where it says some rims are NOT made to run radial tires. As for actual failure, I have seen a 1941 160 Series Packard with a failed rim, and a 1935 Pierce. Radial tires place higher loads on the rim, no question about it. I also have spoken to manufacturers of wheels about this issue. Just in the last few weeks I spoke to an engineer at Hunter Engineering on this topic. They make the most modern and sophisticated wheel and alignment equipment in the world.  They specifically spoke about the poor quality of steel wheels built before World War II, and how they didn’t have good quaility control while manufacturing them. We spent the most time talking about Kelsey-Hayes wheels.  We also covered run out, off center wheels, new tires that are manufactured out of round, static and computer balancing, and a bunch of other details. Ultimately radial tires on a pre war car is a solution in search of a problem. The last five world class collections I went to didn’t have any pre war cars with radial tires. Add it all up, with the cost, rim problems or possible problems, and running tubes in the radial tire, there just isn’t enough benefit in the final analysis. 





    • Like 1
  17. Matt......you can choose as you wish. I have seen wheel failure myself with them on a Cadillac. If you think a rim that flexes so much that the hub caps keep falling off is OK, then run them. Myself, my safety and cars are too important to take a chance with. Just wait until the first loss of life happens with a car with radial tires on it that the car WAS NOT DESIGNED FOR. Watch the insurance company not want to pay out. I recently made a new set of wheels for a car we have, and I worked with the the company to make them out of a stronger and thicker type of steel. I did it in the event I wanted to place radials on the car. On the last tour I was on in September, there were FIVE wheel failures.........FIVE. And by the way, one of them was BRAND NEW! Made the guy who had them made give up on driving the car, as he no longer trusted the other wheels. 


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