edinmass
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Posts posted by edinmass
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Maybe the title should read who bought a car for under fifty bucks. My first purchase was a Buick for 25 dollars in 1980. Painted it with a roller with mixed latex paint….ended up a green/brown color. Drove if for a few weeks and sold it for 75. Thus my career of flipping cars had begun.
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Here is the fitting, modern. Incorrect shape and flow rate about half the original. Been there, done that. Also has a much higher friction coefficient for fuel passing through causing vapor lock under many conditions.
The plug or nut in the second photo is available new, and the rebuilder should have replaced it due to damage.......that tells me he doesn't work on Strombergs on a regular basis or he would have them in inventory.
I would also bet the flow rate of a modern needle and seat are about 40 percent less than the original, but I have not had my hands on DD3 or a kit in over 5 years. So that's just conjecture.
FYI- whenever I see modern fittings it's a 100 percent guarantee when I open things up, it's not gonna have been done right.
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Castor.......well that's another story. You need to have your new tires on it and take reading BEFORE you decide where you are headed. It's not a 2020 F150..........you need to figure out where you are before you make adjustments for modern road conditions. I set cars up using my own specifications.
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Camber shims..........
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FYI
Seeing that modern fuel fitting on the carburetor already tells me whoever worked on the car last didn't know what they were doing............
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5 minutes ago, Steve Moskowitz said:
She's working on it!!!
FASTER! FASTER! 😎
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1 hour ago, Joao46 said:
Well, I seem to have been successful, got it to idle at 500 rpm and got the mixture right, remembering ‘in’ is richer on the screws.
Thanks for all the advice.
next is bleeding the brakes, we just replaced all brake hoses.
Are there any recommendations on front end alignment? I assume with the solid front axle we just set toe.
Nope, you need to do a proper alignment. Just about everyone who knows how to do them is 95 years old or dead. And you CAN NOT TRUST ANY SHOP TO DO IT CORRECTLY! Also, don't align it until you end up with the new tires on it.......you need to check steering box, king pins, drag link, pitman arm, and all the tie rods. Trust me....they need attention! Also springs and shackles are almost always forgotten. A proper alignment on that car today will take between 10 and 40 hours depending on your experience and set up in the shop. And do NOT use a modern alignment machine.........here is my set up on a Duesenberg.
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20 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
Aw well, let's look at the bright [?] side. He DID put some of his green into circulation.😁😁
Ben
I'm all for supporting the working American craftsman........and he did the same thing to a 29 Pierce Arrow sedan........a very common car and it's no great loss, but cut up a L29 Cord convertible.........it's like buying a rare French masterwork painting and touching it up with crayons and chalk. It's his property....and he can do as he pleases. In the end it's all just vanity and ego. Part of the overpaid "look at me crowd" that is such a part of todays world. I certainly hope it doesn't show up at the Auburn meet. Someone should give the ACD boys a heads up that that thing will probably show up at the Labor Day meet looking for approval..........I think I know what kind of reception it will receive.
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If I expressed myself in the terms that I normally do, I would receive a permanent ban on this website. His junk shop….. excuse me, “museum”is only a couple miles from me. Knowing the kind of stuff he collects, I have never bothered to stop and see his stuff. In the world of Palm Beach he’s a popper. Having a few dollars doesn’t give you taste, class, or sophistication. It’s my understanding he made his money garbage in New Jersey. So it makes sense. That’s what he puts in his garage. To each his own.
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Zero danger…….. the rule of stoichiometry applies. There is too much air mixed with the propane to cause an explosion. It just adds hydro carbons.
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By the way…..even if the best guy on the planet rebuilds your carb……if you don’t clean the tank, flush the lines, rebuild the fuel pump, add in an electric boost pump, and check the sending unit your just wasting time and money. Also check the tank vent, fuel pick up line, and all the fittings are passing fuel at the correct flow/volume.-
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Best method for checking vacuum leaks is propane. Use an unlit torch from the hardware store. You can also use it to add HC’s in the event you want to diagnose carburetor lean conditions not caused by vacuum leaks. I have an aftermarket specialty tool that has a two foot brake line on the end of a rubber hose to direct the propane to a specific point instead of the larger saturation nozzle. Hard to believe, I think I paid 12 bucks for mine in the 80’s.
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If all the channel plugs were not removed, there is NO chance that the carb will idle or adjust correctly. Maybe 1 percent of the rebuilders remove them, push through a mechanical device to clean them out, and then flush them, and replace the plugs. It's easy to ruin the carb trying to remove the plugs.......I only know of one rebuilder besides me today who pulls them EVERY time. No, I won't rebuild this unit. See photo below. Ed
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My interests haven't changed.........but now I prefer original and barn find cars over shiny paint. I literaly do NOT care what the car looks like. As a matter of fact, I rather enjoy driving a 60 point car down the road passing the trailer queens that are stuck or stopped that are on tour with me. I find that today the more the car looks like a rolling junk yard, the more people look at it and enguage with me. It also removes the need for white walls and washing/detailing the car. I will admit my interest is tending to shift earlier every year......... for decades I only owned cars of the 30's. Now my two early cars are both 15's. I expect to break into the 190X's soon.
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Your idle should be set at 600-650 with a totaly warm engine. Anything higher and the gears will clash when trying to shift into first or reverse.
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Don’t go radial. Unless I am mistaken you have a snap ring wheel. It’s not a good idea. I could list a bunch of reasons why but I don’t wanna repeat myself for the 50th time. Put a nice set of fire stones on it. I can’t remember the car but it’s a club sedan isn’t it? Post another photo please. Go Blackwall if the car looks good with them. White walls are nothing but a pain in the ass. I’m sure others will chime in.
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Nice Dagmar's!
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I would run modern pistons and ring packages on them. Also, you can manufacture new pistons to match your existing wrist pins. Just center less grind them to all one size. Saves money and is a better fit. I would NOT recommend bumping up the compression ratio on ANY T head engine. Combustion chamber issues and cross flow problems will occur. Remember this are big displacement slow turning engines. Unless you have four valves per cylinder like Stutz, Mercer, or White anything over 5 to 1 will not breath correctly. There were a bunch of guys racing T Head 4's back in the day and none of them ran high compression ratios the I am aware of. It would be best to ask an early T Head expert for more advice. Unfortunatly they are few and far between. And ask someone who has actually built engines, too many internet experts using google search giving out advice. I would also add a modern oil filter set up on the build if possible......even if it's a bypass filter something is much better than nothing. Ed
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She is a good old car…….funny how the rat gets all the love from people nowadays.
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I did my own for a bunch of reasons. Worked out fine. Car stops well. That said, it’s a learning curve type of process. From now on, I will only do my friction in house.
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18 minutes ago, John Bloom said:
That falls under the category “change nothing”
Actually, that’s not entirely 100% accurate. It will change your bank balance.-
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Very cool car. As for a driver, it would be a toss up between a 1954 Diamond Reo 10 ton tri axel dump truck with 800k miles on it, or the perfectly restored town car.
Great piece of history, and great garage art……….driving it……..well let’s just say walking is a reasonable alternative.
To be fair, the truck with a full load of gravel would be required to make it an accurate comparison!
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21 minutes ago, DrumBob said:
I was not aware that these things go for so much money. I like these old boats, but that's a LOT of money.
Actually not a lot of money. A restoration would easily top a million dollars today.
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The above car can be had for less than 50k………..interior is stunning.
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Mecum Florida Auction Seller Fees
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
Also figure in your traveling expenses….hotel, flight, shipping and detailing the car………
Most importantly……no one thinks about………
Auctions that sell thousands of cars in a week. You car get just a few seconds on the block, and “roll it”. Does anyone really think an auctioneer gives a shxt about the hammer price? They don’t work for more bids……..yes, a very few cars bring all the money……but with 4000 cars a few will always do well……most not so much. Many people whine to me their car sold for nothing………..look at the big picture. It’s a crappy way to sell a car.
PS- don’t forget the damage done at the venue to the car with 10,000 idiots jumping in and out of it. My favorite…….stolen or missing parts after the car doesn’t sell.