edinmass

Nothing like a carb that was ok new, but junk today because of warpage issues. Here is the 1931 factory adjustment info. I have a later style manifold and downdraft carb to install on our car after we are done showing it. The change over was done in mid to late 1932. Also the transmissions went to syncro's at the same time. So I will do both when we start to tour with the car.

If AJ buys a set of white wall tires, He will be reminded about it from now until the day he dies.

Gary…….a much better answer. And I probably should have explained myself. Half or more of my cars have aluminum coachwork, needless to say, you don’t use any type of compressed air media on them. My 36 Pierce was very rusty…..less than a parts car when I started. We actually used sand on it……..but it’s heavier than 99 percent of cars out there, we were careful……….and it was 35 years ago. The length of time you stated is about correct. I see many people do an entire car in a few hours. All good, and your cars look very nice. PS- doing it in your driveway……you have a very understanding wife!

If I can only have one old car………..and that thought scares the hell out of me, it would be a 1932 Series 54 Pierce.

Mostly all good comments. The correct answer is buy a bunch of cars…….then you have all situations covered. Road choice, and location are the main issues. Here in southern Florida, we have many great roads…….as long as you are up and back by 11 am on most weekend days. Adjusting to road conditions is what it is all about. My Ford T will never live in Florida. My 1917 White is fast enough for most roads………but the brakes are not. So the 17 get driven sparingly and only on certain roads and certain days. AJ’s Stearns is used like a modern car. As for 1934 Buick Series 56 series car as a driver……….ask me next week!

We have a 904, the best option is to change to the later 32 downdraft. Also do the transmission. It was a big change over year..........making the updraft run right can be a challenge. Since our car is number one of production in 32.......and we are still showing it, we are running the crash box and updraft.

What a car can do, and what it should do are two different things. A good rule of thumb on any CCCA classic is a minimum of 350 CID. That generally means you can climb any hill, and drive any back road with ease, and even jump on an interstate for 10 miles without causing any major issues. Can you get cars to run 70 mph all day long....sure. Just more money and effort. Still doesn't mean the brakes, steering, and suspension are capable of doing it safely. I actually prefer mechanical brakes in old cars.......so they can sit without issues and are ready to go in just a few minutes. Juice brakes don't like sitting for more than three months. Any standard or super eight Packard from 32 up is a great car. Buy the best car you can, it's cheaper in the long run. Preferably one that just did a 1000 tour. Any car sitting for five years is going to cost 10-20 k to make semi road worthy if you can't do it yourself. PS- Tires are still a pain to secure, so before you buy any car, check availability for rubber. Under 350 CID, and the modern roads and traffic become much more of a challange.

The 1934 56 convertible in our garage has two.

Never, ever sandblast ANY car with its paint on it. If sandblasting is necessary…….sometime it is, sometimes it is not. The car should be chemically stripped two or three times, allowing 1/3 the pressure and a much finer material to remove what is left. Very, very few people can sandblast a car and not warp the panels. Especially if one is working to a price………..it can take countless hours to properly get a car down to base metal. Sandblasting is usually done as a low bid/quick job. Thus usually black beauty and lots of pressure to get in and out. Dipping a car can also be ok…..or a disaster.

Dave, It’s called the dollar menu. 🥸

Napa, Carlisle line three ton stands. They were a gift. I usually use six ton stands, but in the case of the four post lift I had Snap-On six ton units under the rear end. The car is 5600 pounds.

I never ever gamble with my safety, or a chance denting a JN!

YES, there are two of them....upper and lower. Also you can see the cork oil level float also. The valve in the cover is the drain for the engine.....no drain plug on a J or JN, just a ball valve you turn from under the hood to drain the oil....

Someone has to do the big projects.......😎 Notice the Pierce Arrow shirt while finishing up the engine........😇

Unlike many others here...( I won't mention names.....but I should) we do actual work and we drive our cars. Here is a JN Duesenberg having its oil pump serviced.

HERE'S EDDIE!

WELL........if we get technical.............it's more than one. 😎 How about we take yours for a spin during fall meet, and then come down here and we will drive along the ocean during Boca? 😇

Example……dump the white walls, paint the wheels black, and a car with much better eyeball then the “Yellow Fever” car. PS- this is current market from last year.

300K will buy you a car three times better……..IE -more collectible and correct. And it won’t be barf yellow.

At least in the 1948 movie, they used good cars. Not made up junk, or plastic.

I know where there are three very similar and much better cars in condition and provenance for 1/3 of the number posted. The Gatsby car nomenclature is meaningless for a reason. There have been four cinema films of The Great Gatsby, one in 1926 which was silent. The “real” movie made in 1948 with Allan Ladd, and then the 70’s Redford and the 2010’s DiCaprio. Only the 1948 version was well done, and used real top of the line cars. I’m around Springfield cars on a daily basis……..and having been born and raised in Springfield I keep an close watch on the market. Could that number be real………only if someone with absolutely no clue as to values and provenance was bidding. I handicap the odds of that being a real sale at 10/1. I have been wrong many times over the years, but this one particular time I think my projection is safe. The J price is exactly where I would have put it…….except my 3 number was “all in”. Disappearing top cars are 5.5 all day long now. The one that just sold was recently done and hasn’t hit the show circuit yet……so that number is a current representation of the market today.

I don’t believe it for a second.

Much too nice for Phil’s car! Hell, then we would have to restore it! 😎

The Loco truck will probably be saved. A bunch of WWI lorry guys in the UK love to save the impossible. Looks like a five ton truck.

That’s what I was thinking when I saw it, so I thought a photo was worth the effort. When you think you have seen everything, and have a good gut feel if something is right or wrong……..you get kicked in the ass.