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Everything posted by edinmass

  1. PM me the numbers, and I am sure I can get you photos. Should not take more than a day or two.
  2. I wouldn't use either........when storing over the winter or long periods of time use VP Racing fuel for classic cars.......it has a six year shelf life. Drain the tank, fill with five gallons of vp.........to the top if you can afford it, then run for a mile around the block. That way the carb, pump, and lines all have VP in them. You will NEVER have any issues this way........
  3. Until one has thrashed a 6 1/2 Liter WO Bentley around the track, and put it into a four wheel slide , you haven’t lived a life on the edge. As Mr. Bugatti used to say, Mr. Bentley builds the worlds fastest lorries! 👍 Here is a W O Speed Six I am rather fond of, having had some chance to stick my little finger in it back in my college days............It’s time for another restoration again......too much track time!
  4. We have a shop motto on how to drive any pre-war car........”Drive it like you stole it!”
  5. I do NOT agree...........and most people here would also......also, it has been reported they no longer make pistons, they resell from other suppliers........not sure about how correct that is. I like many others have had very poor service and poor quality parts from the above company, I would use anyone else.........
  6. Making it run on the 29 if not too expensive or difficult is a good idea. Then you can take your time on the original and swap it out at some future time. Very unusual and neat Leland Lincoln........I like it!
  7. Neat car...how about a photo or two.
  8. At one time the Corbin was in Southern Connecticut, it may now be up in Alaska at the Fairbanks museum.
  9. My Stromberg-Zenith Tripp set up for a Talbot Lago Grand Prix car says made in France on the castings. They look like Stromberg EX-22's with a bunch of weird stuff on them. Jon, I have a Stromberg-Zenith catalog in French from 1935, if I can find it I'll scan it and sent it to you......not much useful information in it.
  10. I have been in the Pierce Arrow Society on an off for 37 years, mostly on. Living in Massachusetts for 50 years, I have never seen the car, or heard of it. Unless the garage burned, I'm sure it's around. I have heard rumors of a large heated industrial building in the Vermont/New Hampshire area filled with great cars, of which I have seen a few when they were out on the road. It's possible the car ended up in the mystery garage. One of the mystery cars was a 1937 Packard V-12 sedan with 2300 miles on it, all original, even the tires. Rumors abound that they had Pierce Arrow's and Packards by the handful. Knowing the family last name, I have no doubt it is possible.
  11. Carbking is always the best source of info on carbs in the USA. I know that carburators were produced in England and France under the name Stromberg-Zenith, and they published catalogs in Europe in both French and English. They were used on cars and trucks, and my best guess as to dates were from about 1933 to the start of the war. I think they were after the high end market, as most of them I see today are on the big French cars. Ed
  12. It is called a "Hardy Disk" and was a common way to connect a driveline back in the day with a car that didn't have very much horsepower. They were originally manufactured by Goodyear. They were die cut, multiple layers with cotton reinforcement back in the day. Today they use rayon. There were bunch of different sizes, and almost none are available today. The Studebaker source is actually from my old shop, which is still making them for water pump drives on several diffrent makes. Your going to have to make one yourself. You need to source the material from a supply house that specializes in rubber products. Convayor belt would be fine IF it is the correct thickness and has the required reinforcement. Do not just cut it with a knife or blade, it should be done with a die in a press. Since you are only making one, turn a thin piece of steel in a lathe and sharpen the edge like a knife and press it out. Do the same for the drive holes. Get it right, or you will have a mess on your hands. Good luck, Ed
  13. I’m quite sure Matt will persevere and get the job done. He’s been around the hobby too long to not be able to work out the issue. The fact is we all look for the least difficult path when we take on such a project. Pulling the torque tube and transmission may be the answer, or lifting the body. Every car and situation is diffrent. The fact is the CCCA multi cylinder cars are very difficult to deal with today, even with deep pockets and time, they can be very difficult to fix. Most people have NO idea how many parts the big cars have compared to the smaller cars.......two to three times as many parts.........which means three times the work at minimum. You can bleed money faster than one can imagine. Forty years of dealing with the big cars has put me in a certain “head”.........there is no substitute for time........these cars take ten times more effort and five times the money you think they will. After all this time and countless cars, I am simply astounded every time I tear into a car and fix all the issues that pop up. This week coming up, I am going to tear into a car that was restored without regards to cost........the shop did a great job, and still I have to do ten to fifteen thousand dollars worth of work to make it perfect mechanically............It drives me crazy to drive a 100 point car with bad mechanical attributes. Almost every CCCA car I drive today has clutch issues. Chatter, grabby, poor release, pedal issues. I can’t stand a car that shutters when you let the clutch up. Recently I did a clutch on a DV-32 Stutz, that had been done no less then three times in ten years......and the thing was still terrible after 20k of work done on it by “professional shops”. It was chattering so bad I thought it would brake an axle. I fixed If for about 850 dollars in parts, and a bunch of my time. I got it right on the first try. Sadly, today there arn’t enough people who just understand these car and how to properly service them. How did I fix it?.........Forty years of experience and not taking one single short cut. Total time for the repair was almost three months. No hurry, no shortcuts, just taking my time making sure everything was correct, and fixing all the problems the three previous attempts that added to the issue.......how hard can it be......it’s just an old car......slap it together and it will be fine.........NOT! If this were easy, everyone would be doing it. There is NO substitution for experience, craftsmanship, and attention to detail.
  14. You should be proud of your accomplishment of building the shop.......it looks great. The never say die attitude is rare today, and it is plainly clear to me you will be successful in any endeavor you pursue. 👍
  15. Rusty, your quoting from Hugo’s book, the custom body era, which as been proven to not be truthful or accurate in SOME instances. Batch bodies were NOT the same quaility, they were often better than many factory work, sometimes not. Easiest way to determine it is by looking at the hardware on the doors........hinges,latches,window regulators,.......and such. The large production LeBaron stuff was not up to the same standards as the low production custom stuff.
  16. Try Wayne E. in Massachusetts. If you need his contact info, PM me.
  17. The Army bought hundreds of Cadillac V-8 touring cars in that era, and I rather doubt a three star general would ride in a Dodge when there were hundreds of Cadillacs available. You need proof of its past, not rumor, conjecture, or any other word of mouth. The color of the car and the front plate are meaningless. Here is a photo of Black Jack Pershing in his Cadillac during the war.
  18. How are they to drive? Well, it depends. Year and series influence driving experience. The DV 32 is the most desirable model, then the SV-16, and then the Model M. The body is a factory catalog tagged batch built unit. Very nice, but nothing custom or special about it. The Convertible Coupe body is only one step below the most desirable Roadster, although some like touring cars better. It’s not a particularly difficult car to drive, fix, or restore, but it can be expensive to work on. I would NOT call that car restored, only serviced. Our European friends have much diffrent ideas about service and repair than Americans do.........much diffrent. I expect if a Stutz guy looked over the car in person, he would have lots of comments. I see a few things myself I would call........inexpensive service and repairs. Doesn’t mean the car isn’t a good or decent example, just that it’s likely that you will put a lot of time and money into it to make it a dependable and sorted driver. The tires are old and will need to be replaced before much driving. And anyone who would lift a car up like that on a offset lift is out of their mind..........overall I like the car. Hire an expert to fly out and look at it in person if your a buyer....it will be the best money you ever spent. I think the price on the car is exactly what I would ask for it if it were mine......as far as current market selling price, that is more difficult to determine. Good luck, Ed
  19. Trailer tires are made in both bias and radial. I agree its best to use tires made for trailers.
  20. The Saylun is an all steel tire, even the sidewall is steel. Although your rated for 75 miles an hour, I think you could spin them at twice that and not have any problems. I hate to be a cheerleader for any Chinese company. These things are fantastic. When you get one in your hands you’ll see for yourself. Instead of worrying about scrubbing a curb, with these things you can drag it down the curb for 100 yards and not hurt the tire. Every single person who has held one in their hands off the rim swapped over to these things right away. If you have any doubt order one just to take a look at it that way there if you’re not impressed you can send it back. I’m quite certain you won’t. To be honest it’s one of the few modern items I buy for every day consumption that is better than it has to be. Let me know how you make out. Ed PS- i’m still hearing stories of the Goodyear’s failing at high-speed’s through the desert with the RV guys as well as the car trailer guys.
  21. Double white walls......what size tire would that car have on it from the factory?
  22. Well, if it runs and drives currently, what difference does it make. The small block Chevy engine is so inexpensive, just start by buying another core engine of the year and configuration you want, and build that one while you drive it around. A four bolt block is very common, we use to throw them away in the 80’s because they weren’t worth storing. Why make you life difficult. Just get another engine to work with. Ed